need some help firgureing out some stuff

[Nick Chinn]

Hey guys. First time posting on the forum. My equipment and car are listed in the signature

Ok so I want to add a second sub on my system (another Rockford Fosgate P3D4-10). I want to keep the cost low (Under $450 if possible since my part time job pay is shit). Right now, im running off the starting battery up front rated at 700 CCA with reserve at 120... my lights are dimming especially when the amp gets into the high frequency range (I do have an SMD volt meter and see the voltage go from 14.3V down to 12-11ish depending on the current demands). I don't get much voltage drop while driving but idling, yes and a lot too. When im driving I don't see it drop below 14.0-14.3V.

To add a sub, I think I might need a second battery (current one im looking at is an XS Power D680), 200 amp isolator, and a XS Power AK 1000 wiring kit. Would adding a second battery help and could my alternator handle it? my alternator is rated 110 amps and reserve (not sure) is 44 amps??? Stock OEM cords from battery, starter, alt... etc... Would I solve it doing the big 3 as well to help out? The current starting battery I got in nov. 2012 so it would be just 1 yr and 4 months old.

Im running my system bridged on the amp and the cap isn't doing crap... should I get rid of the cap if im adding a battery in the trunk?

I would prefer not to upgrade my alternator if possible since I just don't have the finances to pay for a HO alt. (I get on average about $200 a week and im left with almost nothing in just a few days paying for gas, etc....)

What are your suggestions?

[Aj11]

ditch the Cap (now I'll Wait..)

ok now that's gone. a 110amp alt should be able to put a charge on a second battery. no need to run a iso if you don't thump your system while your car Is off.

so doing your big 3 and adding a good amg battery upfront will help allot!

oh what Amp are you.running?

guessing right now your running at 2ohms? adding another dual 4 will drop you down to 1ohm. that will put more strain on your already tired electrical system.

can your Amp run at 1ohm? if you have to go up to 4ohms then I'd wait until you can get a stronger Amp.

[Nick Chinn]

Ok so I was planning to ditch the cap though from the start, really don't know why I spent money on it... should've never bought it in the first place.... I do run my system at times with the car off but that's hardly ever. but I think it would be good to have a iso etheir way... Il do the big 3 upgrade as well. Im fine with replacing the battery up front as I had trouble starting several times during the winter (in MN as we had 24 days of sub zero temps throughout the winter 2013-14). Im thinking it was because there was enough times when the amp was stealing power from the battery at idle.... Im running 8AWG from the main battery to the amp. I would prefer to keep the amp if i could since i got it free from a nice friend of mine.... But if i have to upgrade the amp, i will. This entire upgrade i want to do in mid to late April when the weather finally warms up enough to comfortably work outside.... I already ordered the box. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003E4768S/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Im running my amp in bridged settings right now which is 500W x 1 channel @ 4 ohms. I was told by crutchfield tech chat that i could run 2 of those on the amp if i wanted too....

My amp specs:

KAC-7205 car amplifier Power Output

• 170W X 2 @ 4 Ohms
• 250W X 2 @ 2 Ohms
• 500W x 1 [bridged] @ 4 Ohms

Amplifier General Features

• Class A/B 2-channel (stereo) car amplifier with MOSFET power supply
• LED power indicator
• Tuned Bass EQ (0-18 dB bass boost at 40 Hz)
• Speaker impedance: 2-8 ohms (4-8 ohms bridged)
• Bridgeable operation
• Speaker-level inputs with signal sensing for automatic turn-on
• Preamp RCA outputs
• Short circuit, DC offset, overload, and thermal protection circuitry
• Aluminum die cast heat sink
• Built-in cooling fan
• Gold-plated RCA level inputs
• Gold-plated screw terminals
• Variable low-pass filter (50-200 Hz, 24 dB/octave)
• CEA-2006 compliant amplifier
• Frequency response: 5-50,000 Hz
• Dimensions: 13-3/4"L x 2-5/16"H x 9-3/8"D

• UPC: 019048187451
• Weight: 9

[Nick Chinn]

Ok im running 2 Rockford Fosgate P3D4-10" Punch series subs no problem. Il have to wait and see what happens. Suprisingly to me, i thought it would use more power but it isnt. My headlights arent dimming as much and i think i might not need as much stuff as i first thought. Still il take it to a car audio shop to and have them mesure the power output and see if i do need the stuff i bought or not. Edit: Im running it at 2 Ohms at 250 watts RMS with 500 watts max per channel as stated in the specs of the amp above.

[youngbass98]

Edit: nevermind