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Is there a difference in wiring two d1 subwoofers to 1ohm versus two d4 subwoofers to 1ohm?


BassDoctor

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I always wondered because of how dual 1 ohm subs fluctuate from .8 - 1.2 ohms and dual 4 ohm subs fluctuate from 3.8 - 4.2 normally, wouldn't the dual 1 ohm setup actually be better, but aslong as the amp sees 1 ohm final, it would be the same according to you guys

interesting stuff

From what I've gotten from the video mentioned in this thread, the dual 4s would be a better option if looking to get a 1ohm final load. The reason being that by wiring in series the voice coils will heat up more due to an increase in current across the coil. More heat = less efficiency.

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I always wondered because of how dual 1 ohm subs fluctuate from .8 - 1.2 ohms and dual 4 ohm subs fluctuate from 3.8 - 4.2 normally, wouldn't the dual 1 ohm setup actually be better, but aslong as the amp sees 1 ohm final, it would be the same according to you guys

interesting stuff

From what I've gotten from the video mentioned in this thread, the dual 4s would be a better option if looking to get a 1ohm final load. The reason being that by wiring in series the voice coils will heat up more due to an increase in current across the coil. More heat = less efficiency.

This is not a very good argument.

The coils are made differently to have a different impedance. If it was a valid argument, every sub manufacturer would have to rate their D1 subs at a different power rating than the D2 subs. . .

You are also applying a larger voltage to the higher impedance coil to get the same power. You are not just increasing current at the same voltage. If I ran 100 volts at 10 amps across a resistor, will I get the same amount of heat as 50 volts at 10 amps??? Nope. . .

It really doesn't matter which one you do. Pick whichever one works out with the subs and amp(s) you are buying for the correct match.

Current system:

1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s

Previous systems:

2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz.

1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz.

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I always wondered because of how dual 1 ohm subs fluctuate from .8 - 1.2 ohms and dual 4 ohm subs fluctuate from 3.8 - 4.2 normally, wouldn't the dual 1 ohm setup actually be better, but aslong as the amp sees 1 ohm final, it would be the same according to you guys

interesting stuff

From what I've gotten from the video mentioned in this thread, the dual 4s would be a better option if looking to get a 1ohm final load. The reason being that by wiring in series the voice coils will heat up more due to an increase in current across the coil. More heat = less efficiency.

This is not a very good argument.

The coils are made differently to have a different impedance. If it was a valid argument, every sub manufacturer would have to rate their D1 subs at a different power rating than the D2 subs. . .

You are also applying a larger voltage to the higher impedance coil to get the same power. You are not just increasing current at the same voltage. If I ran 100 volts at 10 amps across a resistor, will I get the same amount of heat as 50 volts at 10 amps??? Nope. . .

It really doesn't matter which one you do. Pick whichever one works out with the subs and amp(s) you are buying for the correct match.

and here I thought I was the only basshead in Denton. haha

thanks for the info. Learn something new every day

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No bass right now. :(

Actually I have a pair of 12's on an AQ2200, but that is not really "bass".

Current system:

1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s

Previous systems:

2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz.

1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz.

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