bkolfo4

Joined December 5th, 2006!

Wish this could be a sticky on every forum around, and people understood and believed it!

Nope. I just talked to them on Friday. Killer amp for the $$$$.

Just installed one of these today (the 200AB). VERY nice amp for $189 shipped. Wish I would have seen this before I purchased the smaller one; I would have bought the 500D. Bought mine at sonicelectronix. Thought about sending it back, but customer was more than happy with the sub output.

A combination of crimp and solder works best.

Tried the app and the mobile site from safari. Even deleted the app and reinstalled. I get this when I try to reply (starting a new PM is fine):

I was guessing AQ2200, but I am on my phone and cannot see the sig. That brings up the impedance question - I would assume you have D1's wired to 1 ohm. If you are going to run the 1500's strapped at 1 ohm (actual 0.5 per amp), I would say there is a 99% chance it will be louder, but do you want to do that? The better option would be to replace the 2200 with a 3500.

Re-read your post, think about it, and then explain how in the heck you think anyone can give you an answer based on the info you have provided. I'll give you a couple of hints - what amp are you running now? What voice coil impedance are the subs? Etc.

If you peak at 53, raising the tuning would increase your SPL scores, but if you play a lot of music for demos, I would stick with the 34 Hz tuning if it was my system.

from the things i've heard about em, you'll need much more power than a mere 1000 watts rms. I've got 1 vvx 12 and I'm putting that much power to that 1 sub Why is it everyone thinks you have to run 10000 watts to every sub for it to perform good? The sub is rated 500 watts. Telling someone it will not perform good at the power the manufacturer rated it at is ridiculous. . .

A sub will break in, and if a sub has a spider setup that is stiffer than the triple joint can handle, then easing into it might not be a bad idea, but it should not be something that takes hours. . . I personally always got my best scores with fresh subs and Mayhems are super stiff. Never damaged one, so maybe they have a better triple joint. The thing that drives me nuts is someone who plays the sub at low volume for hours and then rips on it. It is not breaking in if it is not moving. It is not like an engine as people keep referencing. I am not here to argue engine break in, but an engine is different - if you take it easy on an engine for break in, the moving parts are still moving through their normal compete range of motion during that time. If you take is easy on a sub, it is not breaking in. It will remain stiff until you rip on it, so the time you spent playing it low was wasted.

Another thing to consider - even if you could get the amp to double its output (which I doubt it would - when I hear 2600 watts, I think hifonics), you would gain less than 3 dB. Just leave it and enjoy what you have borrowed.

Let's say your amp does 3000 watts at .57 ohms. The 3 subs wired the same would get 425 watts each, while the single sub would get 1725.

If you wire it the way you are describing, the single sub will not be powered the same as the other three (that single sub would get more power than the other 3 combined!). Wire it as you have it (which should be as Kranny posted). If you want more power, buy a different amp.

You would have to clip to the point of producing a true square wave for this to be true. Yes you definitely increase the RMS power when clipping (that is what actually kills the speaker), but to get double would more than likely kill the amp too.

If you are ever near Dallas, hit me up. I have NEVER heard bass compare to my IB. I have heard louder, but not as clean and deep. Funny, I figured out why I could not get below 12 Hz. Now I am down to 7-8 Hz. Can't hear it, but you can feel it and the house does not like it. Sorry, end of thread jack.

I did IB in my HT to save me from even having to build a box! Sealed boxes can definitely sound terrible. Some drivers are just not made to be run sealed, but I can assure you a Q in the correctly sized sealed box is not one of them.

I like ported too, but have a Q 12 in 1 cuft sealed on 800 watts in my wife's car. Loud and awesome SQ.

Fi Q series or AA Havoc in a sealed box.

Kicker also told me 100% of their subwoofer warranty was due to underpowering. That 1/2 width is for slot effect, not the bend. Someone was confused when they wrote that.

I'll retract that post.

Behringer a500 is nice for $230 shipped. 600 watts at 8 ohms.

Because your meter is reading DC resistance of the wire. Music, tones, etc. is AC. AC is an impedance. Since the voice coil has an inductance, and the cone has a resonant frequency, the impedance varies with frequency. The nominal impedance is based on an average impedance. It peaks at Fs, which many times is mistaken for this thing everyone calls "impedance rise". I could measure the true impedance of a sub at Fs sitting free air on a table using voltage vs. current, and everyone would start talkin about "table rise".

75-85 sqin will work for a pair of Type R 12's.

NO!!!!!!!!!!!! If you do not understand the difference between DC resistance and AC impedance, please don't make comments like this. The difference has been explained a million times. The subs are dual 1 and dual 2 ohm. And at Fs and on each side of the port tuning frequency, they are MUCH higher than that. PERIOD