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Hifonics X2600.1D


SickWickedClown

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explain how i had a hifonics, audiopipe, and audioque amp, and the only amp i haven't smoked was the audioque.

go figure, right?

I've used the cheapest of the cheap-o amps and never blown one. I know you know your shit, but I wouldn't use blowing amps as proof you know what you're doing! lol :nuts:

i held voltage the whole time. i treated the audioque the "worst" too and played it the longest. and it stayed in the sun the whole damn time during the day.

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hifonics 2600w amp is like what, $300? and has the korean 2000w board.

korean 2000w board = soundqubed 2200. which has been tested by the owners of soundqubed to put out that power.

soundqubed is $430. hifonics is $130 cheaper, and is "supposed" to do 400w more?

what a joke.

cheaper amp = cheaper internals

cheaper internals = less power

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  • 1 month later...

i have this amp. actually its the old school one thats black and have the hifonics in the block letters that lights up . how can i test it?? i have the orion hcca 10.4 but only have 4 gauge wire atm with a 60 amp fuse under the hood by the batter. so its like cutting off if i go above 800watts rms at 2 ohms... i just ordered 0 gauge with a 250 amp fuse . hopefully this will open the flood gates

ORION HCCA 10.4 2000 watts RMS 4000 watts max

hifonics brutus 2600 bxi

Alpine IDA -305 Digital receiver

0 gauge power wire 250 amp fuse

800 watt BUTTKICKER BASS SHAKER

Kicker zx-400 amp to power buttkicker

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i have this amp. actually its the old school one thats black and have the hifonics in the block letters that lights up . how can i test it?? i have the orion hcca 10.4 but only have 4 gauge wire atm with a 60 amp fuse under the hood by the batter. so its like cutting off if i go above 800watts rms at 2 ohms... i just ordered 0 gauge with a 250 amp fuse . hopefully this will open the flood gates

Not actually blowing the 60 amp fuse?

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Ok no opinions....

Hifonics amps are known to use cheaper parts than the more expensive amps out there.

This lack of quality results in huge power draws and degrading to the point of the amp quitting on you.

Anyone here who has run a brz or something hifonics knows how power demanding they are,

this huge demand all the time takes it toll on your alternator and batteries over a few years.

I know you don't want opinions but it is my opinion that an amp should be used for years to come,

you should get something that will wow you everytime you turn it on.

If you like it then shit good for you but when you sit in a car with a real amp and have to upgrade,

let us know we will help you find something.

Pretty much everyone you said was giving you their opinion has run a hifonics amp and is

giving you their personal experience and what they have learned from their own research on this garbage

Don't be so quick to ignore those previous posts.

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Ok no opinions....

Hifonics amps are known to use cheaper parts than the more expensive amps out there.

This lack of quality results in huge power draws and degrading to the point of the amp quitting on you.

Anyone here who has run a brz or something hifonics knows how power demanding they are,

this huge demand all the time takes it toll on your alternator and batteries over a few years.

I know you don't want opinions but it is my opinion that an amp should be used for years to come,

you should get something that will wow you everytime you turn it on.

If you like it then shit good for you but when you sit in a car with a real amp and have to upgrade,

let us know we will help you find something.

Pretty much everyone you said was giving you their opinion has run a hifonics amp and is

giving you their personal experience and what they have learned from their own research on this garbage

Don't be so quick to ignore those previous posts.

Show us a side comparison of the cheap parts they use. I wanna know and the people out there wants to know. Or,, are you just repeating what joe_blow says. It's easy to say " yeah they use cheap parts" well show us.

i love this sh--t man 1966 Ford Fairlane Pioneer prs 80, the big three, with 2 big azz agm batts, dual 270/200 amp alts , two 8'' mids and tweets in the kick( PPI phantom 600.2). two 10''s and tweets in the doors, two 10'' mids and tweets in the rear decK ( Lanar opti 500x2). 2 C2 Audio Threatcon 4 12s on a Crunch GP3000d. No crossover .

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If they didn't use cheaper parts, they would lose money at the price they sell their amps at.

Don't you think DC Audio would sell their 2k @$299 if it cost a little less than that to build it?

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The people deserves to see proof of said cheap parts, not what one thinks is cheap because of price. A little side-by-side comparison goes a long way. A normal person cannot just open up an amp and tell what's cheap and what's not cheap. However most of the amps nowadays all look the same.

i love this sh--t man 1966 Ford Fairlane Pioneer prs 80, the big three, with 2 big azz agm batts, dual 270/200 amp alts , two 8'' mids and tweets in the kick( PPI phantom 600.2). two 10''s and tweets in the doors, two 10'' mids and tweets in the rear decK ( Lanar opti 500x2). 2 C2 Audio Threatcon 4 12s on a Crunch GP3000d. No crossover .

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Sorry but I dont have the scientific equipment to do said testing

and I dont know anyone willing to waste time on this

Just look at the fact that the higher end amplifiers are .5 ohm stable

And alot of guys run them below .5ohm successively

Go ahead and try running a hifonics amp at .5ohm and see how quick it goes into protect

or how fast you can make some eggs on it after playing 1 song

Why do you think maxxsonics only recommends a 1ohm load and not a .5ohm load like lanzar opti does?

Because they know the parts they use will burn alive if you try to run the impedance that low

Use your head most of this is common sense

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