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well im thinking an alignment or bearings or something along those lines. maybe a combination of everything.

im feeling that new brake pads are needed soon too. maybe tranny fluid? idk when it was done... maybe at 200k? haha

Sucks for me because at 265,000 miles anything could go.... and i dont really have a backup...

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well the $170 dollar valve didnt fix anything and the battery light is coming back on often. Great.

The light according to the manual means that the alternator isnt charging.

Im thinking its time for the alternator to be replaced. Looking into a dc 320 amp alt. Only problem i have is the voltage regulator. Im not sure how those work on aftermarket alts. I will also buy a 0 gauge big 3 kit if i purchase the alt.

Plus ive been looking into Accord electrical issues and apparently the ELD and PCM/ECM really mess with the charging system when you go to change anything.

ELD problem:

http://www.hondaaccordforum.com/forum/audio-visual-electronics-10/honda-electrical-load-detection-eld-bypass-32726/

I suppose i could try that fix....but for now i wont have a large strain on the electrical. just the normal load that a stock car would have.

Any info would be great on what i should do. thanks.

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Bypass will get you full potential out of the alt. Weather or not the alt is already on it's way out is another story.

Thanks alaskanzx5 I might just do that
I can recone a sub myself. About a year ago I took 2 12" power acoustic mofos and made one sub. I took the magnet and the motor off of one and j b welded it to the other motor and magnet. I had to wind my own voice coil so it would work. After I was done hooked up to 2 boss 5000w amps. And shattered my back and all my side windows

came to this thread to recommend soundqubed and ct sounds. OP goes with soundstream.

oh lawd.

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if i dont do the bypass could i still get the full output? just keep the a/c on or somthing? I always drive with my lights on, would that work?

Currently i dont care about getting the full output of 320 amps, i just want to make sure the alt would work if i drop it in. I have plans later for a full setup though.

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if i dont do the bypass could i still get the full output? just keep the a/c on or somthing? I always drive with my lights on, would that work?

Currently i dont care about getting the full output of 320 amps, i just want to make sure the alt would work if i drop it in. I have plans later for a full setup though.

IMO you will get alot closer to full charging output with the bypass rather than without it. In some cases you can get more output with accessories on but, still not the full output.

But if you aren't concerned about getting the full 320 amps why get an alternator that big?

Thanks alaskanzx5 I might just do that
I can recone a sub myself. About a year ago I took 2 12" power acoustic mofos and made one sub. I took the magnet and the motor off of one and j b welded it to the other motor and magnet. I had to wind my own voice coil so it would work. After I was done hooked up to 2 boss 5000w amps. And shattered my back and all my side windows

came to this thread to recommend soundqubed and ct sounds. OP goes with soundstream.

oh lawd.

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If you aren't concerned about getting a full charge there isn't much of a point to get an alt that big. Unless you are upgrading in the future and do actually install the bypass.

Thanks alaskanzx5 I might just do that
I can recone a sub myself. About a year ago I took 2 12" power acoustic mofos and made one sub. I took the magnet and the motor off of one and j b welded it to the other motor and magnet. I had to wind my own voice coil so it would work. After I was done hooked up to 2 boss 5000w amps. And shattered my back and all my side windows

came to this thread to recommend soundqubed and ct sounds. OP goes with soundstream.

oh lawd.

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