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If I Get A Fi Btl 18?


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after the amp its ac, higher voltage current. 12g is waaaaay more than enough for that amp (the box says 1200rms@4ohm and 1500rms@2ohm), 12g speaker wire is fine for the speaker connection, but because of the 160amp draw that it has, youre going to need 0g run to the back, and then a distro block/stepdown/extra batt to step down to 4g for the terminals

and honestly, a btl is only the way to go if you have the cubic footage and amperage it needs, if you cant put up the power and space, going a step down is almost always louder and cleaner.

Build: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...hl=avalon+build

monster/rockford/kicker/stinger cables, pioneer source, jbl highs/amps, kinetik/shuriken batts, iraggi alt, dei security, dc subs(atleast for now)

Team DC

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with the subwoofer, use 10 gauge wire. because that will support 2400rms at 2 ohms (iirc). thin wire can only support so much voltage and current.

sorry i mean 10 gauge

and i use like 4 gauge wire? "with the amp" or maybe bigger??

Edited by GORILLAslap

starting fresh, chrysler 300.. no subs amp nothin

I NEED HELP looking to purchase saz-1500d and 15" 1000rms subREFS- feedback/refs.. click!

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use 1/0 for your power wire potna ..... that way if you add a lil more power later you wont have to redo everything. 1/0 will take you around 3500rms but anything lower than 3500 is okay.

2-DC 15XLM2 D.7s

1-DC 5K amp

(1) XS Power D6500(UNDERHOOD) and (1) XS3000(REAR)

3 runs 1/0ga for power and 2 runs of 1/0ga for negative.

(2)-RFT165s components, ...... 4 separate 1 inch tweetersRF T600-2(fronts) Punch 450.4(rear)

Audiocontrol 3.1.

DC power 260amp alternator w/MLA Module

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use the biggest wire you can fit in your amp. if that amp does 1200rms at 4 ohms then use 12 gauge yea your fine.

12 gauge: ~21.8 amperes

8 ohms - <3800 watts

6 ohms - <2850 watts

4 ohms - <1900 watts

3 ohms - <1425 watts

2 ohms - <950 watts

1 ohm - <475 watts

the Dual 2 option on Fi's site will make it to 4 ohms.

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