thehoe92 Posted February 2, 2010 Author Report Posted February 2, 2010 I'm pretty familiar with the tahoe/yukon/escalade suspension and been under my hoe multiple times to know where everything goes I know once I start getting into it I'll have some challenges but thats what curse words are for I just need to buy some blades for my dad's sawz-all and rent a torsion key remover or 2/3 gear puller from kragen/sears/autozone Wouldnt be thehoe92 without teh purple
Steph3n1 Posted February 2, 2010 Report Posted February 2, 2010 I'm pretty familiar with the tahoe/yukon/escalade suspension and been under my hoe multiple times to know where everything goesI know once I start getting into it I'll have some challenges but thats what curse words are for I just need to buy some blades for my dad's sawz-all and rent a torsion key remover or 2/3 gear puller from kragen/sears/autozone yea fuck torsion bard i have em too and they were just a bad idea alltogether. coilovers ftw way easier to drop and lift the right way 2005 Ford Ranger Reg cab Build in Progress T3 Audio T2000 12 ARC SE4000 Stinger HPM 1/0 Wire DC power 270xp Batts: 1 Redtop up front and a Stinger SPP2250 in the back Hopes to be in and around a 150....weel see my youtube channel http://www.youtube.com/user/steph3n1 Team DBs (Driven By sound)
thehoe92 Posted February 2, 2010 Author Report Posted February 2, 2010 fuck coilovers, bags are way easier I have a feeling I'm going to struggle the most with the keys the back end is relocating a lot of stuff but it all unbolts fairly easy the torsion bar has a lot of stress on it Wouldnt be thehoe92 without teh purple
Steph3n1 Posted February 2, 2010 Report Posted February 2, 2010 fuck coilovers, bags are way easier I have a feeling I'm going to struggle the most with the keys the back end is relocating a lot of stuff but it all unbolts fairly easy the torsion bar has a lot of stress on it yup youll have to take it REAL easy over bumps 2005 Ford Ranger Reg cab Build in Progress T3 Audio T2000 12 ARC SE4000 Stinger HPM 1/0 Wire DC power 270xp Batts: 1 Redtop up front and a Stinger SPP2250 in the back Hopes to be in and around a 150....weel see my youtube channel http://www.youtube.com/user/steph3n1 Team DBs (Driven By sound)
thehoe92 Posted February 2, 2010 Author Report Posted February 2, 2010 I probably shouldn't have got the tune before the drop I haven't taken it easy on any turn, bump or straightaway since I got it the drop kit will increase my performance but yeah I've already got pot hole senses so I'm prepared on that half Wouldnt be thehoe92 without teh purple
Steph3n1 Posted February 2, 2010 Report Posted February 2, 2010 I probably shouldn't have got the tune before the dropI haven't taken it easy on any turn, bump or straightaway since I got it the drop kit will increase my performance but yeah I've already got pot hole senses so I'm prepared on that half hahah i dont have to worry about potholes when your sittin on 33x12.50 R15's with kevlar sidewalls you dont have much of a rim to mess up. i like both looks tho your truck looks real clean good work so far 2005 Ford Ranger Reg cab Build in Progress T3 Audio T2000 12 ARC SE4000 Stinger HPM 1/0 Wire DC power 270xp Batts: 1 Redtop up front and a Stinger SPP2250 in the back Hopes to be in and around a 150....weel see my youtube channel http://www.youtube.com/user/steph3n1 Team DBs (Driven By sound)
Blackedout Posted February 2, 2010 Report Posted February 2, 2010 lol not on an orbital buffer, those hardly spin fast enough to do the smallest amount of paint correction now if your talkin about a DA or rotary then yeah watch your shit Thank you... LOL.... I dare someone to try to burn their paint with an orbital buffer, their hand may fall asleep. Orbitals are good for a little touch up after using a buffer. Most holographic/ buffer hop marks can be taken out with an orbital. Btw Kasey, NXT 2.0 is a great wax except one thing..... It doesn't even last a month. For the winter, it's almost pointless, but for shows in the summer... Good shit ;-) In fact, my car has nxt wax on it both in the avatar and signature.... But again, both pictures taken in the summer. Trunk Build Log
thehoe92 Posted February 2, 2010 Author Report Posted February 2, 2010 I would like to get this eventually.. maybe when it stops raining I'll put up an ad on craigs list for detailing cars so I can afford one of these and make the "business" go by smoother I can't remember which one eats through paint but an orbital buffer like the one above has a counter weight to PREVENT burning through paint its mainly for light scratches and swirl marks nothing major definitely takes the work out of it for me at least considering I've got a lot of surface area the one I got is a 10" and was to big for some spots so maybe I'll go buy a 6" one for finer details but yeah I love that NXT stuff its been through one rain so far and its still shining just like the day I waxed it when we finally get a break in weather I'll be washing my car, then dry washing it with dawn to get all the old wax and polish off, claying it, dawn washing again, glaze, polish, then wax and it SHOULD be the cleanest I've ever had it Wouldnt be thehoe92 without teh purple
Blackedout Posted February 2, 2010 Report Posted February 2, 2010 Before I start taking my car to the summer car shows with the car club, it'll get another run down like last time. After buffing w/ rotary and orbital, in the glazing process After buffing, glazing, waxing Lookin Wet And great choice on the porter cable, I'd love to get one myself, but what it comes down to is really diving into the rotary buffers, multiple cutting pads, compounds, and some expert advice over looking your work. First step is doing your research, and you're obviously doing that cuz the PorterCable is hot on the internet, haven't been able to find one locally.... Yet. My car has kinda been neglected for a while now... It's just sitting under the car cover chillin at home. I'd advise you to hold off on the detailing... At the amateur level, you will be making less than minimum wage for quality work. Not to mention, you're screwed if you mess something up. You can advertise Wash/Clay/ Wax, but advertising paint correction is a risk IMO. Trunk Build Log
thehoe92 Posted February 2, 2010 Author Report Posted February 2, 2010 NXT gives you that looking wet feel to the paint I've been doing lots of research on detailing with the PC.. which pads to use, how much cutting power each one has, the proper compounds, and different techniques to achieve exactly what you are looking for. the trick.. most of the time over looked.. is doing a little 2x2 patch with the buffer and seeing the breakdown time of each individual component whether it be glaze, wax, or polish then moving on from there to get the car spotless my main concern is my hood. I may end up getting an HD hood from the Chevy diesels and replacing mine which will look like this and be the start of my front end conversion but for the time being my hood is dull due to the lack of clear coat when it got resprayed after it had been in front end damage (before I owned it) so in order to remedy that I usually put one coat of polish down let it dry a little then put another down over then wipe off same with wax to try to get the most shine out of it its definitely starting to get noticeable now that I can get my side fenders looking spotless and basically like a mirror while the hood is clean but not so much mirror paint correction is a no go unless specifically asked by the customer I will start mainly with scratch remover and just work it in as much as possible I used it on my roof when the roof rack left behind its mark and it came out pretty nice just lots of work but it will be basics with the aid of the buffer Wouldnt be thehoe92 without teh purple
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