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Posted

I'm pretty familiar with the tahoe/yukon/escalade suspension and been under my hoe multiple times to know where everything goes

I know once I start getting into it I'll have some challenges but thats what curse words are for :D

I just need to buy some blades for my dad's sawz-all and rent a torsion key remover or 2/3 gear puller from kragen/sears/autozone

Wouldnt be thehoe92 without teh purple

Posted
I'm pretty familiar with the tahoe/yukon/escalade suspension and been under my hoe multiple times to know where everything goes

I know once I start getting into it I'll have some challenges but thats what curse words are for :D

I just need to buy some blades for my dad's sawz-all and rent a torsion key remover or 2/3 gear puller from kragen/sears/autozone

yea fuck torsion bard i have em too and they were just a bad idea alltogether. coilovers ftw way easier to drop and lift the right way

2005 Ford Ranger Reg cab

Build in Progress

T3 Audio T2000 12

ARC SE4000

Stinger HPM 1/0 Wire

DC power 270xp

Batts: 1 Redtop up front and a Stinger SPP2250 in the back

Hopes to be in and around a 150....weel see

my youtube channel

http://www.youtube.com/user/steph3n1

imgsize.jpg

Team DBs (Driven By sound)

Posted

fuck coilovers, bags are way easier :D

I have a feeling I'm going to struggle the most with the keys

the back end is relocating a lot of stuff but it all unbolts fairly easy the torsion bar has a lot of stress on it :vava:

Wouldnt be thehoe92 without teh purple

Posted
fuck coilovers, bags are way easier :D

I have a feeling I'm going to struggle the most with the keys

the back end is relocating a lot of stuff but it all unbolts fairly easy the torsion bar has a lot of stress on it :vava:

yup youll have to take it REAL easy over bumps :)

2005 Ford Ranger Reg cab

Build in Progress

T3 Audio T2000 12

ARC SE4000

Stinger HPM 1/0 Wire

DC power 270xp

Batts: 1 Redtop up front and a Stinger SPP2250 in the back

Hopes to be in and around a 150....weel see

my youtube channel

http://www.youtube.com/user/steph3n1

imgsize.jpg

Team DBs (Driven By sound)

Posted

:rofl: I probably shouldn't have got the tune before the drop

I haven't taken it easy on any turn, bump or straightaway since I got it :lol:

the drop kit will increase my performance :D

but yeah I've already got pot hole senses so I'm prepared on that half

Wouldnt be thehoe92 without teh purple

Posted
:rofl: I probably shouldn't have got the tune before the drop

I haven't taken it easy on any turn, bump or straightaway since I got it :lol:

the drop kit will increase my performance :D

but yeah I've already got pot hole senses so I'm prepared on that half

hahah i dont have to worry about potholes when your sittin on 33x12.50 R15's with kevlar sidewalls you dont have much of a rim to mess up. i like both looks tho your truck looks real clean good work so far

2005 Ford Ranger Reg cab

Build in Progress

T3 Audio T2000 12

ARC SE4000

Stinger HPM 1/0 Wire

DC power 270xp

Batts: 1 Redtop up front and a Stinger SPP2250 in the back

Hopes to be in and around a 150....weel see

my youtube channel

http://www.youtube.com/user/steph3n1

imgsize.jpg

Team DBs (Driven By sound)

Posted
lol not on an orbital buffer, those hardly spin fast enough to do the smallest amount of paint correction now if your talkin about a DA or rotary then yeah watch your shit

Thank you... LOL.... I dare someone to try to burn their paint with an orbital buffer, their hand may fall asleep.

Orbitals are good for a little touch up after using a buffer. Most holographic/ buffer hop marks can be taken out with an orbital.

Btw Kasey, NXT 2.0 is a great wax except one thing..... It doesn't even last a month. For the winter, it's almost pointless, but for shows in the summer... Good shit ;-)

In fact, my car has nxt wax on it both in the avatar and signature.... But again, both pictures taken in the summer.

Posted

I would like to get this eventually..

PorterCable7424XPDualActionOrbitalP.jpg

maybe when it stops raining I'll put up an ad on craigs list for detailing cars so I can afford one of these and make the "business" go by smoother

I can't remember which one eats through paint but an orbital buffer like the one above has a counter weight to PREVENT burning through paint

its mainly for light scratches and swirl marks nothing major

definitely takes the work out of it for me at least considering I've got a lot of surface area

the one I got is a 10" and was to big for some spots so maybe I'll go buy a 6" one for finer details :)

but yeah I love that NXT stuff its been through one rain so far and its still shining just like the day I waxed it

when we finally get a break in weather I'll be washing my car, then dry washing it with dawn to get all the old wax and polish off, claying it, dawn washing again, glaze, polish, then wax and it SHOULD be the cleanest I've ever had it :D

Wouldnt be thehoe92 without teh purple

Posted

Before I start taking my car to the summer car shows with the car club, it'll get another run down like last time.

After buffing w/ rotary and orbital, in the glazing process

0329092157.jpg

After buffing, glazing, waxing

0620092215.jpg

Lookin Wet

0620092218.jpg

And great choice on the porter cable, I'd love to get one myself, but what it comes down to is really diving into the rotary buffers, multiple cutting pads, compounds, and some expert advice over looking your work. First step is doing your research, and you're obviously doing that cuz the PorterCable is hot on the internet, haven't been able to find one locally.... Yet.

My car has kinda been neglected for a while now... It's just sitting under the car cover chillin at home.

I'd advise you to hold off on the detailing... At the amateur level, you will be making less than minimum wage for quality work. Not to mention, you're screwed if you mess something up. You can advertise Wash/Clay/ Wax, but advertising paint correction is a risk IMO.

Posted

NXT gives you that looking wet feel to the paint :wub:

I've been doing lots of research on detailing with the PC.. which pads to use, how much cutting power each one has, the proper compounds, and different techniques to achieve exactly what you are looking for.

the trick.. most of the time over looked.. is doing a little 2x2 patch with the buffer and seeing the breakdown time of each individual component whether it be glaze, wax, or polish then moving on from there to get the car spotless

my main concern is my hood.

I may end up getting an HD hood from the Chevy diesels and replacing mine which will look like this and be the start of my front end conversion

user2_pic42_1241186439.jpg

but for the time being my hood is dull due to the lack of clear coat when it got resprayed after it had been in front end damage (before I owned it)

so in order to remedy that I usually put one coat of polish down let it dry a little then put another down over then wipe off same with wax to try to get the most shine out of it

its definitely starting to get noticeable now that I can get my side fenders looking spotless and basically like a mirror while the hood is clean but not so much mirror

paint correction is a no go

unless specifically asked by the customer I will start mainly with scratch remover and just work it in as much as possible

I used it on my roof when the roof rack left behind its mark and it came out pretty nice just lots of work

but it will be basics with the aid of the buffer

Wouldnt be thehoe92 without teh purple

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