kfx450r Posted June 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2009 (edited) Hm..well been thinking..Maybe i dont want a solo x. I just realized that i can squeeze out 12+ cubes in my truck (before displacements) without even walling it. But id go halfway up the rear window if i had to which should net me about 14 or so cubes. Which sparked the idea of 4x 15" alpine type Rs...Ive had there 12s before (old and new) and i loved them. They got loud off low wattage and could take more if needed while still sounding good. So im thinking 4x 15s off a true 2000 watt mono amp (rockford, sundown etc) at 1 ohm. 200 amp alt, big battery up front and extra one out back..like 2x hc2400s or something, 4/0 wiring. I think this would work nicely..+ i havent seen too many ext cab trucks with 4x 15s in the cab. Needless to say i think even off 2000 watts these 15s should get a little loud, possibly even sound good doing it. Ill still be taking all the advice in this thread for the electrical but my sub decisions will prob change. But 4x 15s in a ext cab mini truck is sounding pretty G to me. Heres a box sketchup i did out of boredom. I put 5x 6" pvc ports in it..Since im not a skilled carpenter and figure a slot might take up more area in the box than id like over pvc (if it does anyways) and ease of use from pvc..Managed about 140 sq inch of port area if my calculations are correct. This box before any displacements is 14 cubes leaving a slight glance out my rear mirror. After subs box will be 13.5 cubes and i have no idea how much area 5x 6" pvc tubes takes up..I think they came out to be 28" tuned to 34 hz. Alpine recommends 2.25 cubes ported per 15 and i shuld be able to give them 2.5 ATLEAST after displacements. Ofc I will double baffle the front and put some L brackets in it..Maybe even resin some. Not sure i will cross that path when I get to it. Edited June 10, 2009 by kfx450r Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thacarter546 Posted June 10, 2009 Report Share Posted June 10, 2009 Coming from a guy with an s10 that is going to be cramped unless its a crew cab, but I honestly like your second plan much better and think it sounds a little more solid. I think you may be a little happier running 4 12"s. I run a single 15" tc3000 in 3.5 cubes with cavalier seats, and I cant lean them back very far, and if you have a girl in the car it sucks. But 2kw is a decent starting point and much easier to support. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kfx450r Posted June 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2009 (edited) Coming from a guy with an s10 that is going to be cramped unless its a crew cab, but I honestly like your second plan much better and think it sounds a little more solid. I think you may be a little happier running 4 12"s. I run a single 15" tc3000 in 3.5 cubes with cavalier seats, and I cant lean them back very far, and if you have a girl in the car it sucks.But 2kw is a decent starting point and much easier to support. I like the second plan much better as Ive seen quite a few builds lately they use less wattage and more cone area and really put out the sound. By my calculations I can fit the 4x 15s..and it wouldnt be any diff seating wise than my box now since i would make the box slanted. Luckily my truck has alot of leg room so its still fairly comfortable. I would do 4x 12s but i wanna go all out and my friend has 4x 12s.. I think ill put 4x Type R 15s and put my 1500 amp on em for now..and slowly up the wattage to about 2-2.5 as my electrical gets better. Hopefully i dont blow my windshield out or something. I was thinking RE Srs..as they take 350 rms instead of 500 like the Type Rs..but nothing wrong with underpowering subs..and with the alpines i have room to grow with the wattage. Even if they are double the price. Just hooked up 2 of my 6x9s..way louder than I thought theyd be, its like my door speakers dont even exist. Does anyone know how I can quickly, easily, disconnect all my door speakers? If i cant hear them why have them drawing unwanted power. Gonna pickup 2 more 6x9s and hopefully if i can afford it a 600.4 amp for em. Edited June 11, 2009 by kfx450r Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kfx450r Posted June 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2009 Still interested in the 15s..but.. How bout 8x RE10s each takes 175wrms and optimal space is 1 cu ported for each. As you can see i can EASILY fit 8 of these in a ported box... wire my amp to 1 ohm and put 1500wrms to them. I think it has potential. Can get 8 of these for like 340$ shipped. The only thing I dont like about this is the box will probably need a shitload of bracing..which i have no experience on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest KyleCannon Posted June 11, 2009 Report Share Posted June 11, 2009 (edited) I wouldn't suggest getting an alt rewound from a local auto store... You should go with a goo high quality Alt. Look around there are many on this site. Me personally, I would go with DC Power and get one of the nastiest alternators that make insane amounts of power at idle. By having a good at idle amperage... you have faster recovery time and sometimes you wont have to sit at the light putting your car in neutral to bump your stereo :)It all depends on the car, money and the time willing to spend. If you're interested in a DC Alt, my contact info is in my signature. We have a 270SP Model that does 180-200 amps at idle and 270~ top end. They are 489 plus shipping. They are only compatible with certain makes and models though but thats just an example of what you can get. Edited June 11, 2009 by KyleCannon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enemyofsilence Posted June 11, 2009 Report Share Posted June 11, 2009 IMO i dont think you need 4/0 wire. you can so like do 2 runs of 1/0 and it will probably be cheaper than doing 4/0. and amps dont have inputs for 4/0 (that i know of) Quote Team Bass-Hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kfx450r Posted June 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2009 I wouldn't suggest getting an alt rewound from a local auto store... You should go with a goo high quality Alt. Look around there are many on this site. Me personally, I would go with DC Power and get one of the nastiest alternators that make insane amounts of power at idle. By having a good at idle amperage... you have faster recovery time and sometimes you wont have to sit at the light putting your car in neutral to bump your stereo :)It all depends on the car, money and the time willing to spend. If you're interested in a DC Alt, my contact info is in my signature.We have a 270SP Model that does 180-200 amps at idle and 270~ top end. They are 489 plus shipping. They are only compatible with certain makes and models though but thats just an example of what you can get. Sounds like a good alt id look for. My new plan..if u havent seen my other thread..is im going to use 10 10s..I wont need a beastful electrical due to im only putting about 1500-2000 watts in it but im still gonna want atleast a 200+ amp alt. A single one that can keep my volts up with 2 batteries (main and extra out back) at idle. Ill def hit you up when the time comes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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