Dale Posted June 8, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2007 your subs will still perform to their full potential, once you drive them with enough power. and if you're worried about the air velocity thing...notice that your maximum velocity will be at a frequency of about 20 - 23 Hz. After 30 Hz your subs will start to roll off quickly and will hardly reproduce those frequencies. i just chose 1400 because it's a safer wattage...it doesn't mean YOUR subs will blow. if it makes you feel any better, my L7 15" was driven with 1800 Watts DAILY....no smells. about the amp kit....it costs about $230. why not just put a second battery in the back? then you could have shorter power cables from the amp. The only thing you'd have to spend on is wire from front to back battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freestylin Posted June 8, 2007 Report Share Posted June 8, 2007 I have found the kit for under 100 actually and I was looking around for wiring and discovered the "Big 3" I don't think I need to do but anyways should I stick with 1/0 or should I go bit smaller and what else do i need (probably what I see in the kit) because I'm probably order the Hifonics BxI1606D amp tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dale Posted June 8, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2007 stick with 1/0 wiring...don't go smaller. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freestylin Posted June 8, 2007 Report Share Posted June 8, 2007 Found this just right now http://www.techronics.com/index.cfm?fuseac...product_id=3547 u think it is worth compared to the sonic... and if i get this would i just need to get speaker wire or is there more Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dale Posted June 9, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2007 that is def. a better price than with sonic. I would go with at least 12 Guage speaker wire...8 guage (power wire for smaller amps) is preferable Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freestylin Posted June 27, 2007 Report Share Posted June 27, 2007 Hey wats up dale I'm finally done with skoo and resuming this I will probably go buy the supplies tomorrow here is what I plan on getting: 1. MDF 2.Wood Glue ( any recommendation) 3. screws(what size should i get) 4. some clamps 5. jigsaw, router, circular saw ( which one should i get and would i need the most) 6. will i need liquid nail??? 7. resin??? dont know if i should get this because this is the first box i'm making but when it comes to the 45s it would be easier right let me know if I'm missing anything. Also went back to google sketchup and remade the designs with measurements and this is what i got: ight dale let me know man peace Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dale Posted June 27, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2007 Hey wats up dale I'm finally done with skoo and resuming this I will probably go buy the supplies tomorrow here is what I plan on getting: 1. MDF 2.Wood Glue ( any recommendation) 3. screws(what size should i get) 4. some clamps 5. jigsaw, router, circular saw ( which one should i get and would i need the most) 6. will i need liquid nail??? 7. resin??? dont know if i should get this because this is the first box i'm making but when it comes to the 45s it would be easier right let me know if I'm missing anything. Man those google sketches look good. For wood glue, look for titebond 2 or 3, that's what I use. 2" - 2.5" screws should be fine. A Jigsaw is always important for the sub cutout. I suggest making the rest of your cuts using a table saw. It's just the best for straight cuts. If you can't, a circular saw should suffice. Basically, you need all three tools. The router to round off your ports and box edges. If you have titebond wood glue, you won't need liquid nails. It's just an alternative. Resin would play a pivotal role in strengthening that box. I would get it if I were you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FieroGrande Posted June 27, 2007 Report Share Posted June 27, 2007 Nice to see one person helping another! Hey freestylin y dont u make a build up thread? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freestylin Posted June 27, 2007 Report Share Posted June 27, 2007 getting around to doing it but i want to have everything before i do that so i have some pictures to post Does the brand of resin matter probably will get it from home depot. and when i predill the holes do i fill i t up with ?? wood glue??? or it just like that. Also if I get a router what kind roundover bit do i need to get exactly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dale Posted June 28, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2007 i've seen good results with a 1/2 inch round over bit. but it is always wise to experiment. i dont think the brand of resin will matter much. about pre-drilling holes: it helps prevent the wood from splitting. what i do is get a counter-sink bit. what that is is a regular drill bit that tapers at the end. and further up the bit (closer to the drill) forms an umbrella shape. what that does is make it possible for the screw to lie beneath the surface of the wood. makes it look real clean and professional. you should look into it. here's what they look like >> http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW2569-Counte...7612&sr=1-5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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