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Subs inside / outside of enclosure ?


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wow wrong answers, glad ed was here

if u invert, u need to either switch positives and negatives or change phase from 0 to 180

u have to do this

once u are ready to fine tune then u can see what sounds best but 90% of the time having the sub in-phase with the rest of the system sounds correct and more accurate

inverting will raise box volume and raise tuning

u can hook a sub to a wall outlet and it will make sound, does that mean thats what ur suppose to do just because it works, no

And what if your system is out of phase by 180 degrees to begin with? What if when you installed your bass driver, it was actually out of phase? And inverting its wiring polarity placed it back in phase? According to you, you MUST invert the phase when inverting driver placement, so in this situation, you just placed your bass driver 180 degrees out from your system phase response.

Good job.

And further, what if your enclosure had such a terrible group delay that the resulting output was close to inverse phase? And what if the incident wave is being bounced around inside the boot (trunk) badly, and it is almost inverse phase?

Tune with your ears, not with the knowledge of how someone else tuned their system. Best RTA you have are located either side of the head.

Cheers,

Mick

Edited by MickyMcD

Work;
DiGiCo D1 Live / MIDAS Heratige 1000 / MIDAS Venice
Meyer Sound CQ-1's, CQ-2's, PSW-2's
RAMSA Monitor Amplifiers
P.Audio Monitors
BSS OMNIDRIVE and Soundweb
DBX 231 and Klark Teknik DN360 EQ's
RCF TT22A
RCF ART320

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see the nice thing mick is im fully aware of this

and you of all people have an ear for things like this

but the average joe wouldnt even be able to tell the difference over the rattles in their cars when it comes to phase

example:

so if ur doing time alignment... would u just put random distances in or start with actual measured distances for a reference

not trying to argue mick, just saying almost everyone who reads this likely wouldnt be able to tell the difference so starting with logical settings is best... then fine tune if u feel it doesnt sound right... which is in the ear of the beholder :clapping:

(btw id love to have ur job :give_rose: )

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see the nice thing mick is im fully aware of this

and you of all people have an ear for things like this

but the average joe wouldnt even be able to tell the difference over the rattles in their cars when it comes to phase

example:

so if ur doing time alignment... would u just put random distances in or start with actual measured distances for a reference

not trying to argue mick, just saying almost everyone who reads this likely wouldnt be able to tell the difference so starting with logical settings is best... then fine tune if u feel it doesnt sound right... which is in the ear of the beholder :clapping:

(btw id love to have ur job :give_rose: )

Too true I guess. I disagree with your statement of having to invert phase on driver flip, but I can certainly see and appreciate where you are coming from, and why you made the statement, and how in many cases it is fact.

Cheers,

Mick

Work;
DiGiCo D1 Live / MIDAS Heratige 1000 / MIDAS Venice
Meyer Sound CQ-1's, CQ-2's, PSW-2's
RAMSA Monitor Amplifiers
P.Audio Monitors
BSS OMNIDRIVE and Soundweb
DBX 231 and Klark Teknik DN360 EQ's
RCF TT22A
RCF ART320

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wow alot of different opinions but my sub is inverted wired + to - - to + and my ear o meter says its slamming my eyes bouncing in my skull agree

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