Jump to content
Sonic Electronix

Recommended Posts

x2 this.

if your gonna stick with your stock electrical and the RF 500w amp, stay with an SSD. also, ditch the capacitors.

K thanks for the tip I remember that when I get around to building the box for the FI's.

I do have to ask tho, if you are certain on the caps? if I lose them my lights damn-near cut off. with them on I only see my In-lights flickering. Not trying to be smart, just hesitant???

And I plan on getting a 350amp alternator. Do you know s 'Cheap' good battery or 2 I can add on?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you need an extra battery then you wire it like this

front batt---------------fuse---------------rear batt-------------fuse amp OORR

front batt----------------------REAR batt--------fuse--------amp OOOOOR

ALT--------FUSE-----BATT------------BATT-------FUSE-----AMP

really up to you stops dimming and helps you not torture the amp

i got 3 batteries but im not sure what you consider cheap, we can help you with a lot but you have to know how much you are willing to spend

Edited by Red-navi-916

BUILDLOG

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=61862

"98crewcab"Never a POS....just always "a work in progress" lol that's how we roll bitches!!!

Your a lowlife kid. I bet your mother wants to kill herself for not swallowing your ass.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

K thanks for the tip I remember that when I get around to building the box for the FI's.

I do have to ask tho, if you are certain on the caps? if I lose them my lights damn-near cut off. with them on I only see my In-lights flickering. Not trying to be smart, just hesitant???

And I plan on getting a 350amp alternator. Do you know s 'Cheap' good battery or 2 I can add on?

My jeep's a 95.

2 15"s will have more cone area, so will essentially have potential to get louder then a single 18.

The roof flex is rediculous, but significantly less after I deadened the roof (which is good). Without the roof vibrating as much, my roof racks don't rattle anymore. Before they were like a giant swarm of jackhammer-toting killer bee's.

I would say you can keep the caps, they won't hurt too much. If you are going to have a 350amp alt, I don't see why you will need a battery besides the main one for starting. That is assuming you won't have rediculous amps. For instance, I'm running about 1200 watts to my sub with only a 240 amp alt and the regular starter battery. I get barely any voltage drop, even at idle. Sometimes the belt will slip if I'm idling and playing a really loud, droning bass line, but that doesn't happen often.

I'm guessing if you are planning to get a BL, you will have like a 1500w amp. With a BTL, you will need a bigger amp and you might want a battery or two, I don't know.

That's my opinion on it.

as468x60pxbanner.gif


My Youtube Page. Check it out

The "SAV" - Sub-aural Assault Vehicle

Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X993

Image Dynamics CTX 6.5" Components

Q-logic 6.5" kick pods

CDT 6.5" CL-E6NEO Front door Midbass

Kicker ZX350.4

Knukonceptz SS Karma 4 channel 6m RCA

Fi Q 18" w/ brushed aluminum dust cap

7cu ft. ported box tuned to 28hz

Sundown SAZ-1000D

Iraggi 240 amp Amputator Alt

Big 3 in Monster 1/0awg

Second Skin Damplifier Lite on roof and front doors

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What year is your jeep? I have an 18" Fi Q in my 95 GC. My rattle was pretty loud, and I determined it was the roof racks. I recently deadened the roof and that just about got rid of all of the roof rack rattle. Now it's my back hatch that's making a lot of noise. Get some sound deadener for that.

I would recommend the BL over the BTL for you simply because it'll be much more expensive in the long run to have a BTL, and a BL will probably get plenty loud for you.

If you want to check Vids of my sub in my car, check out my youtube page in my signature.

BTW can you send me a link to the alternator you got? the one Im looking at is kinda sketchy looking.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

who sells a 350amp alternator? i bet that thing outputs like 50amps at idle.

DC Power alternators have an alternator that does 270amps max and 200 amps at idle (700 engine rpm i think)

edit: capacitors + stock electrical system + voltage drop = fried alternator sooner or later.

Edited by Kranny
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1271 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
×
×
  • Create New...