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Haha how many times i've said that to myself.. couldn't count....

but is the cable attached to the knob? and what amp is it? if it has the RJ45 connectors and wire like the RF amps do.. you'll be in luck.. just pick up some ethernet cable...

It's an MTX RFL600D. The cable looks like a phone cord.

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DO NOT DO THIS. its just not a normal phone cord, each wire goes to a specific pinout. if something isnt in the right place theres a chance to fuck shit up.

well is the connector for a bass knob on an MTX amp RJ11? or is proprietary?

and it would only fuck shit up if the wires crossed over in the cable, making the pins at one end not correspond to the pins at the other.

and if you think about it, there's no real reason for MTX to do that. it would just make custom cables necessary and would also cause a number of broken\fried amps due to people using phone cords.

then again, if it's not RJ11 or RJ45, that's a different story....

to the OP:

can you look inside the female jack on the amp and count the number on pins?

and does the connector look like a computer network jack (8 pins) or a telephone jack (4 pins)?

edit: spelling

Edited by kdicetharappa
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Amp doesn't even get warm. No attenuation button on the HU. I've got an LOC that's brand new, so I hope that's not the problem.

The spare sub is just an old Adire Audio Shiva that's been in the closet for 5+ years. I was just trying to think of another way to test the amp out and that's the only thing I could come up with.

see if your LOC gains are maxed out. could be the problem!

2002 ford explorer

200 amp rewound alt

single 18" Fi btl fully loaded

2 1750's

2 c&d tech 88amp/hr batts

2 ought wiring

cdt component set up front, cdt coaxials in back

Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X693

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I'll have to do some playing around with it this weekend when I get some time, but from what I can tell when it starts acting up all I have to do is push on the cable a little (like I'm plugging it back into the knob) and the bass comes back.

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