DirtyD78 Posted May 2, 2010 Report Share Posted May 2, 2010 (edited) Try np1 it is the meanest caulk known to manYou can get it at abc supply. It's better than liquid nails wood glue. We use it at work to put windows in( goverment jobs) we use shims and np1 Edited May 2, 2010 by DirtyD78 Quote 2003 CHEVY SILVERADO REG CAB H/U SONY W/ IPOD TOUCH new build 2 dc audio lvl4 xl's rd audio 3250 box is behind the seats below the window 3.44 after tuned@34 htz 147.3@44 htz & getting louder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluX Posted May 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2010 Try np1 it is the meanest caulk known to manYou can get it at abc supply. It's better than liquid nails wood glue. We use it at work to put windows in( goverment jobs) we use shims and np1 Wish I had heard of it before I ran over to Walmart and picked up a bottle of Gorilla Glue and some Loctite. Next time I would use more clamps but I have a general rule of 1 screw per 5 inches because last time I built a box, I had screws every 2 inches and I was told it wasn't necessary. Anyways, I finally finished up the install. Got all of the box carpeting and gluing completed. I took out the cargo area carpet and redid all grounds in the vehicle. I rearranged the wiring in the front of the cargo area, where the sub box lies before the amp. I took out the cargo latches so that the sub box would lie flatter and then I got the great idea of bolting the box to the cargo floor. There was a rubber plug that led straight to above the spare tire, so I took measurements and then drilled a hole into the box. I gathered a bolt, some lock nuts, a few washers, a rubber gasket, and my Loctite. I assembled the pieces and put the sub box in the cargo and put Loctite in between the rubber gasket and the wood to form a tight seal. After I finished installing the box, I wanted to make sure that my amp gains were tuned correctly. I set my head unit to flat, MX off, unhooked my sub and inserted the leads into their determined terminals. I set the LPF to 70Hz and the bass boost to off. After some adjusting, I got the gain to hit right on spot of my destined voltage, 48.9V. All went well, and the bass seems more controlled and not getting sloppy as I had noticed before, so early on. I am now well aware of what a leaky box sounds like, and a sealed ported box sounds like. One thing I was unsure of was, what exactly is the MX on/off function? To me, it just seemed like it caused the overall volume to increase faster as I turned the knob, like what I would play at 26/35 with the MX off, would sound like 15/35 with the MX on. Before the sub box was put in it's proper location After I pulled the plug out, I cut a small hole in the carpet so that I could insert the bolt through here and tighten it from underneath the truck, providing a sub box that does not slide around and somewhat of a theft deterrent, but of course they could just undo the 6 wood screws... T-nuts next, maybe? Overall, I'm pretty pleased with the results. Quote BluX 2001 Ford Explorer Sport Mach 5 MJ-18 (4 Ohm) Alpine MRP-M1000 Alpine 9813 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluX Posted May 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2010 Boo... cargo net doesn't fit anymore Guess I'll just have to fabricate something. Quote BluX 2001 Ford Explorer Sport Mach 5 MJ-18 (4 Ohm) Alpine MRP-M1000 Alpine 9813 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
USLESS Posted May 10, 2010 Report Share Posted May 10, 2010 nice work Quote my 94 ranger build http://www.stevemead...4-ranger-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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