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Posted

Make sure you have enough volume in that box first off, I can't be bothered working it out exactly at the moment, but it seems a bit small for a ported 10". I got like .6 of a cube, too small if you want it ported, and pushing it for sealed too. For the port, it depends on where you are putting the box, if it is going in a trunk, go for #2, if it is going behind the seats in a pickup, go for #1.

My RE MT 18" wall build Former build, farewell beloved wall.In progress, Toyota Starlet build

This forum has a massive boner for ridiculous electrical upgrades.

Posted

it actually is a little small for the sub. its only a P1 but i also dont have alot of room to work with in a mighty max pickup. thats where i thought the port would help. im new to figuring this out.

just remembered something.... the measurements were way off. the height is 21.5, width 22.75, depth 9.5 at the bottom.

Posted

found out i have more than enough room. but im also wanting to upgrade to the dc lvl 2's. so ill need it to have enough room for those.

im putting a ten behind each seat thats another thing i didnt say earlier.

Posted (edited)

fiberglass10.jpg

Just a quick model of it, the depth is 5 as it makes it an average of what it would be.

As you can see there is far too much port area and not enough box volume.

EDIT: lol, just remembered the second depth box

fiberglass102.jpg

still too small with too much port though.

Edited by bassl0va

My RE MT 18" wall build Former build, farewell beloved wall.In progress, Toyota Starlet build

This forum has a massive boner for ridiculous electrical upgrades.

Posted

ok looks like its the sealed route for me. do u think it will be big enough for dc lvl 2 WHEN IT COMES TIME TO UPGRADE. im also thinkin bout rebuilding when i upgrade. instead of two dc 10s. im going to do 3 sa 8s. NOT SURE YET

Posted

also if anyone could help me. im glassing in a pair of 6x9s in the headliner. one in each rear corner. when mounting the supports the existing headliner what should i use? glue? screws?

Posted

ok looks like its the sealed route for me. do u think it will be big enough for dc lvl 2 WHEN IT COMES TIME TO UPGRADE. im also thinkin bout rebuilding when i upgrade. instead of two dc 10s. im going to do 3 sa 8s. NOT SURE YET

Yep, unless you can squeeze more room out of the back. Depends how big you build the box in the first place, the suggested boxes for the lvl 2 10"s are 0.5 cubes sealed and 1 cube ported. For the SA 8"s you might want to have 0.8-1 cube per sub if it is ported.

also if anyone could help me. im glassing in a pair of 6x9s in the headliner. one in each rear corner. when mounting the supports the existing headliner what should i use? glue? screws?

I'd use both, the screws to support it and the glue to stop it from wiggling.

My RE MT 18" wall build Former build, farewell beloved wall.In progress, Toyota Starlet build

This forum has a massive boner for ridiculous electrical upgrades.

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