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Most cars charge above 14 volts. It could be upto 14.9. This could be why its higher than just 14.

But you can't always go by the factory volt meter. Best thing to do is take a DMM and see what its really reading at.

It was fluctuating between 14.98 to 15.2

Like quickly? Or what? And was this when you were driving?

Or was this reading off a dmm?

Yes off the dmm. I was idling at about 14.9 and when I revved it would increase just a tad.

Damn that is some nice voltage! Was this reading taken at warm or cold?

Well, it's cold as tits outside. But the engine was warm. Not sure if that makes a difference. Haha.

2003 Chevy Tahoe

Pioneer Head Unit

4 Pioneer 6 1/2's

6 Pioneer 1 in. Tweeters

2 15" Kicker L7, tuned at 38hz.

2 Audiobahn A2150hct ampliers

The Big 3

3000 watts RMS

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My explorer does about the same as that. Just under 15v (between 14.6 ~ 14.9) at idle.

And, it has been like that for over two years.

So, as long as it isn't bouncing around, you shouldn't have to worry about it.

Chris - "The Apprentice" - Pandora's Box Customs

1994 Ford Explorer - "Midnight" - 4.0L SOHC

SoundStream PCX-1000D & Kicker S12L5

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Good deal.

I just upgraded my system and I already want more bass hahaha.

2003 Chevy Tahoe

Pioneer Head Unit

4 Pioneer 6 1/2's

6 Pioneer 1 in. Tweeters

2 15" Kicker L7, tuned at 38hz.

2 Audiobahn A2150hct ampliers

The Big 3

3000 watts RMS

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also, this red "box" you are talking about, it is inline between the alternator and the battery?

I know on my Uncle's old F-350 the starter solenoid actually ran between the Alt & Bat.

And, if you are running your amplifier from a solenoid post, it probably won't hurt the amp, but may ruin the solenoid.

Got a picture? I am sure someone could tell you what it was if you had an image of decent clarity.

Chris - "The Apprentice" - Pandora's Box Customs

1994 Ford Explorer - "Midnight" - 4.0L SOHC

SoundStream PCX-1000D & Kicker S12L5

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Also, this red "box" you are talking about, it is inline between the alternator and the battery?

I know on my Uncle's old F-350 the starter solenoid actually ran between the Alt & Bat.

And, if you are running your amplifier from a solenoid post, it probably won't hurt the amp, but may ruin the solenoid.

Got a picture? I am sure someone could tell you what it was if you had an image of decent clarity.

FxCam_1294258755578.jpg

Here is a pic of my subs for anyone really giving a shit.

FxCam_1294258449288.jpg

2003 Chevy Tahoe

Pioneer Head Unit

4 Pioneer 6 1/2's

6 Pioneer 1 in. Tweeters

2 15" Kicker L7, tuned at 38hz.

2 Audiobahn A2150hct ampliers

The Big 3

3000 watts RMS

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Share on other sites

Actually, come to think of it. I was working on a system for a friend of mine in his VW Passat, and underneath of the dash next to the inside fuse box, there was a spare terminal post that was rated for 60 Amps. It was weirdest thing I had seen, but since the battery was practically impossible to get to (it was underneath of a plastic cover in the center of the engine compartment near the firewall), and it was only a small 350 watt system. We went and hooked the primary wire up to it, and it worked perfectly. Tested all voltages, and everything was working with no change in the electrical systems of the vehicle. Of course, if the system were anymore than 500 watts, I certainly would have spent the extra time to get directly to the battery.

Edited by PandorasCustoms

Chris - "The Apprentice" - Pandora's Box Customs

1994 Ford Explorer - "Midnight" - 4.0L SOHC

SoundStream PCX-1000D & Kicker S12L5

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Yeah, that is a very unique connector. Never seen one quite like that, but I am sure some manufacturer's do it for reasons such as this.

And, the box looks good. Any plans on covering it?

Chris - "The Apprentice" - Pandora's Box Customs

1994 Ford Explorer - "Midnight" - 4.0L SOHC

SoundStream PCX-1000D & Kicker S12L5

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