CaptainzPlanetz Posted January 28, 2011 Report Share Posted January 28, 2011 I'd go H/O route. Seems I'm the only one on most forums that way this. I like producing current, not adding another battery which could draw current from your alternator and give you worst voltage. In some cases alternators cost to much vs output. Or some cars just don't have good H/O options. Even some cannot be upgraded due to factory ECM. What vehicle do you have? 2003 Pontiac grand am 3.1L V6 I have that same car, Mechman has a direct bolt on large case alt that fits, it does 165amps at idle and 270amps at 1800rpm. It is 449 dollars, IMO that would be the best bet, especially since if you upgrade in the future all you will have to do is add a battery in the trunk. So I would do the alt first, I wish I would of went that route when I had the funds. off-topic Thats ironic lol I'm buying that DC lvl 4XL 15 from 99GPX that he got from you It is definatly a task to get a box that fires into the cabin sealed off with it but is doable, if you want I can get you the outside measurements for the box I had in there, I had to take off the taillights to get that extra half inch on eachside but it sqeezed in there with help from a friend, IIRC it was about 3.3-3.4cubes after sub/bracing/port displacment using 2 4" Aeroports tuned to 28hz. Quote ¿ǝɯɐƃ ǝɥʇ Trolls never learn............ All BS aside, If I see one more comment in here that is NOT about the pre-sale, I will start the vacations. And that includes the trolls feeding the trolls. YOU THE ONE THAT SOUND LIKE A OGER AND HUMPBACK/TROLLS? Add "SMDLIFER" on Xbox LIVE to play with other SMD members. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ford302Redneck Posted January 28, 2011 Report Share Posted January 28, 2011 Well in adding a battery situation, it is best to match battery types. And wet cell is not good for trunk/inside car. Therefore needing two dry cell batteries, which could cost about the same as a H/O alt. Either way your going to spend ~500 dollars. I just like having current on tap instead of worrying I'm draining my batteries. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeddyG Posted January 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2011 I'd go H/O route. Seems I'm the only one on most forums that way this. I like producing current, not adding another battery which could draw current from your alternator and give you worst voltage. In some cases alternators cost to much vs output. Or some cars just don't have good H/O options. Even some cannot be upgraded due to factory ECM. What vehicle do you have? 2003 Pontiac grand am 3.1L V6 I have that same car, Mechman has a direct bolt on large case alt that fits, it does 165amps at idle and 270amps at 1800rpm. It is 449 dollars, IMO that would be the best bet, especially since if you upgrade in the future all you will have to do is add a battery in the trunk. So I would do the alt first, I wish I would of went that route when I had the funds. off-topic Thats ironic lol I'm buying that DC lvl 4XL 15 from 99GPX that he got from you It is definatly a task to get a box that fires into the cabin sealed off with it but is doable, if you want I can get you the outside measurements for the box I had in there, I had to take off the taillights to get that extra half inch on eachside but it sqeezed in there with help from a friend, IIRC it was about 3.3-3.4cubes after sub/bracing/port displacment using 2 4" Aeroports tuned to 28hz. That would be helpful man I never thought of using aero ports for the port and yeah send me those measurements so I can see how you did it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.