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Help/info needed for 1st fiberglass sub enclosures in Chevy HHR


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I am gonna give making a pair of custom fiberglass sub boxes a try for my Chevy HHR Panel.

Initial thoughts with my audio/video install was to build some type of sub box amp rack Combo in the rear spare tire well.

But as my daily driver/semi show car that my HHR Panel is to me, I really did not like the idea of loosing the spare tire.

I have been using one Pioneer TS-W3002D4 12 In. Champion Series PRO subwoofer, in a Atrend E12Sv B Box Series 12-Inch Single Vented Subwoofer Enclosure, takes up Alot of room in the back area and hinders hauling stuff in general, and with my added rear seat in my Panel when the 60/40 split rear seat is folded down the sub box slides all over the place in back.

Sliding big sub box has gotta Go and I want Two of the Pioneer 12" subwoofers.

I found a Custom subwoofer install done in another HHR, contacted the owner and he had them custom made in Clarkesvile TN.

This is what I want to make/recreate.

44f43fdd.jpg

This is the area in my HHR Panel, the Flat area thats 20X12 is removable.

66a3639c.jpge8de3cee.jpg

I'll be ordering up stuff from US Composites. What all should I get to make a pair of these? I have nothing but Time on my hands to give this project a try.

From the looks and from talking to the owner, looks to be a MDF backing and then a MDF Ring mounted off center then fleece stretched over it and resined, add some layers of fiberglass to the inside, and maybe a layer on the outside. and bondo it out smooth.

Originals were covered in black vinyl, and are 10" subs.

(I was a body and fender man for about 12 years full time a long time ago)

Pretty much same kinda design. I know my subs are 12" and I will need to expand the boxes for a little more depth I believe. To get the required •sealed box volume: 0.5-1.0 cubic feet •ported box volume: 0.8-1.6 cubic feet.

I Need / Want my floor space Open, and this type of install will allow that, plus let me use 2 subwoofers.

I just bought and recieved a second Pioneer GM-D8500M mono amp, and will be ordering up a second Pioneer TS-W3002D4 subwoofer and the matching Grill.

These were just done, and posted on a HHR Forum I am on and it's a perfect solution for me and to be able to have a pair of subs without sacrificing floor space or my spare tire, jack and other things I would like to carry in the well area.

As I said, I do have 12 years of body and fender, and auto painter experience, I have a complete woodworking shop in my garage, 6HP 80 Gallon air compressor, sandblasting cabinet, fully tooled to do just about anything, garage is Heated and is AC'ed as well.

I just never made a subwoofer enclosure before. Not saying it won't be hard to do, just that I can't afford to spend that kinda cash having them custon made.

I gutted the interior and sound deadend 90% of the interior roof to floor, doors are done with a layer on the inside outer door skin and then the door is sealed up and a layer on it directly behind the interior door panels, roof and floor are 100% covered, rear spare tire area is 100% covered as are the rear quarter panels.I did not tear the dash out to get in behind it and the firewall, to much work to do that. Huge improvement in the car overall. In the area were the door speakers are I did add a 12"X12" area with 3 layers (4 total overall) directly behind each of the speakers.

Ideas and thoughts on how to do this is what I am looking for, not sure how to achieve the outer rim area that fits around the outside edges.

Not sure how much materials I will need, 2 gallons of resin, sheet of 3/4" MDF, and how much and what kinds of fiberglass should I get?

Thanks

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look into a material called ponte. Its an underarmour type material that is much much easier to work with than fleece. It doesnt soak up resin and since its just for the base you dont need to worry about the strength it provides. i used to be all about fleece til i tried it and well Ill never go abck

THERE IS NO BUILD LOG!

1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab

Alpine CDA-9887

4 Team Fi 15s

2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0

2 Ampere Audio 150.4

3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets

Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound!

8 XS Power d3400

6 XS power d680

Second Skin

Stinger

Tsunami Wiring

Sky High

A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.

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look into a material called ponte. Its an underarmour type material that is much much easier to work with than fleece. It doesnt soak up resin and since its just for the base you dont need to worry about the strength it provides. i used to be all about fleece til i tried it and well Ill never go abck

This stuff?

http://www.amazon.co...TF8&me=&seller=

Any suggestions on making the subwoofer enclosure? Making somthing close is my main goal, I never made a subwoofer box before, been reading and watching vids.

Mainly looking for thoughts and ideas how to make this.

I can't find B-440 Premium Polyester Layup Resin on the US Composite website, only the 435 Standard Polyester Layup Resin, has the 440 been discontinued or somthing?

Thanks

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thjat would work. you wont be able to frame the cubby hole you will need to make a mold of it. everything else can be framed in mdf.

THERE IS NO BUILD LOG!

1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab

Alpine CDA-9887

4 Team Fi 15s

2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0

2 Ampere Audio 150.4

3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets

Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound!

8 XS Power d3400

6 XS power d680

Second Skin

Stinger

Tsunami Wiring

Sky High

A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.

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thjat would work. you wont be able to frame the cubby hole you will need to make a mold of it. everything else can be framed in mdf.

OK, I ordered 2 Yards of that material. Thanks.

For the box itself, as a NOOB to making a fiberglass sub box such as this I was thinking 3/4" MDF cut to fit the back side that Flat, in the what you called a "cubby".

The flat piece can be removed were a window would have been if my HHR was not a Panel version. Then do the normal 2" blue painters taper to cover the whole area and place plastic all over everything else just in case. Fiberglass out beyond the "cubbies" edges so it can be trimmed off later. Make my MDF Rings, and see just how far out I will need to place it, secure with doll rods or 1"x1" lengths of wood and wrap with the material, resin it, then add layers of fiberglass on the inside through the 12" ring opening.

With the MDF backer, I can bolt/attach it securely.

Does it look like thats how they were made?

Heres some more pics of the working area. Behind the interior panels.

9e1bd0f8.jpg

This plus 4 headrest monitors are installed. (center channel speaker Not installed)

dd80b458.jpg

This is the subwoofer I will be dealing with.

f9519afa.jpg

Then I need to deal with this amp setup, plus there will be a matching second mono amp for the second sub woofer on the otherside.

Amps were setup only as a Temporary setup until I figured out a sub woofer install, I plan to do a fiberglass type rack were the amps are at currently.

66e87254.jpg

My HHR Panel.

2e05ba61.jpg

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Bought so far for my little project-

Jasper #200 Circle Guide (Amazon)

Hit up Home Depot for these- $88.28

1LB. Box of SPAX Hardwood and MDF Screws #6 x 1.5 inches long(nice small heads)

2 SPAX T20 Driver Tips

2- 2'X4' 3/4" MDF

1- 2'X4' 1/2" MDF

-1 2"X4" 1/4" MDF

3- 1 Quart Multi Mix Containers

3 bags- 3M 8 sq.ft. each fiberglass mat (i'll be buying more mat from USC when I place my 1 gallon resin order and other supplys)

1 bag- 3M 8 sq.ft. fiberglass cloth

4 Rolls of 2" 3M Blue Painters Tape

USComposites Order is looking like this so far, any thoughts?

10 Yards enough ?

10 yards FG-10538 38" Width 1-1/2oz Chopped Strand Mat $2.55 a Yard = $25.50

1 Gallon SM-435100 - 435 Standard Polyester Layup Resin $ 30.50

SM-STY025 - Styrene Quart(32oz) $6.75

SM-MEKP080 - MEKP Hardener 8oz $5.50

SM-SWAX02 - Surfacing Wax 2oz Bottle $2.25

FR-1213A - Fiberglass Detail Roller 3/8" x 3" $6.70

$77.20 Plus Shipping

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The way i make a mold is to get some thick plastic sheeting cut it into strips and tape it to the area you want to glass and make sure its not all crinkled, then get a another large piece of plastic sheeting and using spray adhesive secure it to the first layer of sheeting, the two layers are so you can remove it all in one piece and not have a bunch of tape and shit stuck to it. Now just coat the area with a layer of resin and let it dry then proceed to resin, 2 layers of glass mat, let dry, resin, 2 layers of glass mat, let dry. I go about 6 or 7 layers till at least 3/8". make sure to get rid of air bubbles with stiff brush as i dont think you will be able to use a roller in a contoured surface, you can also try popping them with a pin before you work them out. After the back part of the mold is done you can go a lot of different routes. 1 way is to tape off with plastic the inside of the mold, then use triple expanding foam and fill it in letting it expand larger then the enclosure will be, once it hardens shape it with a knife, sandpaper, whatever for desired finished product, remove the foam from mold, then tape over that with plastic like the first part and use adhesive to stick the 2nd layer of plastic sheeting on it. Then do 2 layer of glass, let it dry, then cut out where you want the speaker ring then glass it in. repeating the 2 glass mat, resin until 3/8 or more thickness is reached and kind of make a smooth transition around the speaker ring, now remove foam and plastic from top mold and stick the 2 halves together, trimming where necessary to get a good fit. Glass the 2 halves together from the inside.

Ok the other way is to do the first half the same, then get some wood dowels and stick them to the fiberglass bottom mold and the top to the speaker ring, position the speaker ring with like 3 or so dowels, let it dry and make sure its sturdy, then get some polyester stretchy cloth, staple it around the speaker ring then stretch it over the mold and tape it so its tight with no creases, creases will be a nightmare when it comes time to either paint or cover it, because you will have to bondo and sand it more. now after stapling it and taping it down smooth put a layer of resin on it, let dry then reinforce with layers of mat on the inside.trim the excess material off, knock out the wood dowels and you are ready to prep and paint or cover.

Also I wouldnt use fabric unless it was only for shape because it isnt strong like fiberglass. I use both mat and cloth, I try to stick with mat, but ill occasionally lay down a layer of cloth if its a flat area and im just building layers.

Well it may seem like rambling but I was trying to give 2 ways I have used, there is alot of steps to put into words for me. Anyways man hope it helps and goodluck.

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