Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Mine did that, and the RCA outputs on the back of the radio had gone bad, and then it did it again and it was just where the RCA's had gotten pinched and naked wire was touching metal

so try getting new RCA's first and if thats not it have your local audio shop look at your radio

Edited by e_train

1997 4 Runner

Alpine CDA-9886

4 Fi Audio X Series 12's

1 Crunch GP3000D Pro

DC Power Inc. Alternator(Kickin out 15+ volts!)

footer-fade.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i took it in and the guy at the shop asked why am i going to run a seperate battery if my alt puts out 300 amps. i told him about the set up and he never heard of FI audio which is ok but he said if i hook up my deka im gonna get more noise. he also said the alt or alt connection could be the source of the noise. i dunno, i didnt want to sit and argue so i left even more confused

Link to comment
Share on other sites

it only started making the noise when i installed my new alt. i'm not blaming the iraggi. do you think a mla module will help?

Our module will not do anything for that kind of noise. We do use ferrite inductors to reduce the switching noise feedback from the internal regulator. The ferrite damps the 400hz switching noise, as well as other resonant noise.

Many newer alternators are equipped with avalance diodes which help clamp noise spikes. Some alternators also contain a capacitor to deal with noise.

Without knowing what vehicle & alternator type you are running, it is difficult to guess the actual source. You say this started when you installed the alternator - what else was done when you did the job? Did you R&R a plug wire for access?

You mention the "big 3". Do you have a ground wire making good contact with the actual aluminum alternator case, running straight to the battery negative?

'Link

missinglinkaudio

r91ks0.jpg

The United States Marine Corps. When it absolutely, positively has to be destroyed overnight - even if "it" belongs to the base commander...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Our module will not do anything for that kind of noise. We do use ferrite inductors to reduce the switching noise feedback from the internal regulator. The ferrite damps the 400hz switching noise, as well as other resonant noise.

Many newer alternators are equipped with avalance diodes which help clamp noise spikes. Some alternators also contain a capacitor to deal with noise.

Without knowing what vehicle & alternator type you are running, it is difficult to guess the actual source. You say this started when you installed the alternator - what else was done when you did the job? Did you R&R a plug wire for access?

You mention the "big 3". Do you have a ground wire making good contact with the actual aluminum alternator case, running straight to the battery negative?

'Link

the conections for the grounds are the mount of the alt to the frame and - of the battery to the body sheetmetal. the vehicle is a 1993 cadillac fleetwood brougham with a 5.7l v8 and the a 300 amp iraggi dominator. R&R a plug wire? i dont know what that means

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 2151 Guests (See full list)

×
×
  • Create New...