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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/30/22 in Posts

  1. Holy smokes its me again. So I bought an old school Alienware Predator case on the cheap and wanted to throw my current rig in it for pure nostalgia purposes. For those that don't know, these PCs were the BEES KNEES back in 02-05 and was my dream PC. So bought a case on ebay for 200 bucks that looked in decent shape to start. Equipment - CPU- AMD 5800x 3.8ghz GPU - AMD 6900XT 16gb RAM - G Skill 32gb 3600mhz HD - Seagate Firecuda 1TB m.2 Motherboard - ASRock Tiachi x570 Watercooler - AIO 360 radiator (6) 120mm EZDIY rgb fans Monitor - Samsung 49" Odyssey G9 Speakers - Klipsch RP15 with a 10" Klipsch subwoofer First had to take it all apart and start sanding for new paint. What it looked like when I got it, Plasma purple in somewhat decent shape, lots of scratches. Threw on some spray-on bedliner to coat the inside metal case black (no more retro steelie) Everything loaded in External Paint is a Ford explorer black metallic Finished product
    3 points
  2. I’m not a fan of Kicker not trying to rip peoples choices , if you keep having the same issue with same box same subs that box is the problem, I don’t know the specs they need but you need the right built box for the subs and that means it has to be built. I called Sundown for my 3-10’s box and they were more then happy to help me out . Those subs are rated at 600RMS and because of the box and my good electrical they had 1K to each sub for 3yrs and never blew. Ended up selling to my friend and he still has them. Clean power and the right box for the subs they last along time. Also I think brand can help. I’ve built many boxes for people with no space never had issues but got to build the box . Last 2 boxes were 2 Sundown SD3 - 10’s and 3 DD shallow 10’s for me.
    2 points
  3. So I mounted them quick to get an idea, fed them from a b2 rage 2500.1 at 2ohm so they saw 2k.. Honestly thought it'd be a touch louder on 2k. Definitely over 150db for sure though (comparing to my older systems which I've metered). Either way, when all said & done they'll see 8k.. slightly more power lol. Did a little trim work & wrapped the amps in a vinyl. The beauty panel upper portion around the port will also be wrapped in the forged carbon vinyl & the lower half around the subs will be black suede. I'll have trouble wiring the amps as it's REAL tight. We'll see
    2 points
  4. it wont stop raining here so i havent done anything util today. managed to get some stuff done this morning before it started again. This round im gonna try to seal off the trunk again and fire forward. gonna do a better job of sealing off this time though. Started out making a template and transferred that to wood and so on and so forth. Going to need some trim pieces for this gap obviously. this part was a pain in the ass to be honest. Myu solution will require a bit of bodywork and filler to flush it out but its not bad. A couple of rectangle pieces and a wedge or two with a weird angle on them should fill this in nicely Made the cutout for the box to fit into. The box is going to sit flush up against the back of this coutout. Here is the base the box will sit on Added some side panels to help seal off. i think i will screw the box into these to make sure its secure. maybe not, i dont know. would be nice to easily remove the box but i dont want any leaks either. Box will sit like this Thats all for today. gotta pull all this out again and then put sound deadener over all the holes i can find so its sealed off really good. then i need a lower trim piece for the front will probably body work the front panel to smooth out all the lines and hide the business end of stuff. I may just wire up everything to make sure the box doesnt have any terrible flaws before i get crazy. i have plenty of depth to work if i need to change anything. i only had about 5 hours to work today, so i didnt get much progress but i guess any progress is good lol. Thanks for looking!
    2 points
  5. Just run it till the cabin is full of smoke then buy new subs
    2 points
  6. BASS is the Name of the Game! Custom DC Audio 2.0k 2,000 Watt amp for DJ Magic Mike
    1 point
  7. Honestly I hate those things. MDF doesn't lend itself well to inserts of any sort. If you want threads, the best way to do it would be to laser out some rings from sheet steel, drill and tap those, bolt that to the back side of your baffle, then secure the driver to that. Barring that, the screws I've had the best luck with are some spax #8 multi material construction screws.
    1 point
  8. Had to go sealed but did build one for 2 -10’s ported.
    1 point
  9. And as the saying goes there is more changes in the works some bad ass additions coming very soon so stay tuned
    1 point
  10. I feel like without totally removing your seat, doing a blow through, or doing a crazy center console build, your at your max with the 4 square subs. One thing about those L7's are, for whatever size, they are loud. Mostly because of the extra cone area you get from being square instead of round. With that amp wired at 2 ohm, I don't think your over driving your subs. The enclosure might be a tad small, making it a little harder for your voice coils to cool properly. Or, maybe you just got a hold of 2 duds, though with kicker, that's hard to believe you got 2.
    1 point
  11. Yea, I had them replace the shitty job on the isolator with a rivnut. As for the mechman, the truck is a 6.0 v8. However, it doesn’t come stock with an alternator. I’m not sure how the stock belt configuration does work. I’m just repeating what they called me and said. The power steering is controled by the hybrid system and not the belt/alternator. I found a video through another audio forum that used spacers and some other pulleys. I’m hoping that it is a viable option. Either way I will post updates on the install. This is my first system and it doesn’t feel good knowing more than your installers for such an expensive project.
    1 point
  12. Yes, only the L (lamp wire) is needed to turn it on and charge, you will want to connect the L wire to a 12volt ignition switched power source, or use a toggle switch to manually turn it on/off when needed (but you need to remember to turn it off when you shut the vehicle off because you dont want it on when the vehicle is off if you go the toggle switch route). Also you need to run that size resistor in line with it because it will reduce the voltage and prevent the voltage regulator from burning up (this is something already done when its controlled by a vehicles computer, but when you are bypassing that and running your own power source you need to do it), this is a must or that new regulator will only last a few days at best).
    1 point
  13. Calculations can be greatly simplified if we assume all subs in the circuit have the same final impedance: Subs in parallel: total impedance = individual sub impedance / number of subs (1) Subs in series: total impedance = individual sub impedance x number of subs (2) For hybrid circuits such as series-parallel and assuming all groups(sub circuits) in the circuit have the same impedance: groups in parallel: total impedance = individual group impedance / number of groups (3) groups in series: total impedance = individual group impedance x number of groups (4) To determine the final impedance of dual coil subs (simplest case): Coils in parallel: sub final impedance = individual coil impedance / 2 (5) Coils in series: sub final impedance = individual coil impedance x 2 (6) Example: We want to wire 6 JL Audio 13W7 Dual 1.5 ohm coils to a 2 ohm stable amp: So using formula (6) we get final impedance of each sub with coils wired in series: sub final impedance = 1.5 x 2 = 3 ohm Then we use formula (1) to get impedance for 3 subs wired in parallel: group final impedance = 3/3 = 1 ohm Then we use formula (4) to get impedance of 2 groups of 3 subs wired in parallel which will be connected in series: Impedance as presented to the amp = 1 x 2 = 2 ohm
    1 point
  14. Simple fix is to swap the voltage regulator to the 4 pin gm, if your not confident in doing so then send it to your alt manufacture. You just got to pop the back plastic cover off and make sure its using this style (layout) of a voltage regulator which most aftermarket Denso alts are (where as factory/oem ad244 and dr44 alts are using a different style voltage regulator and you wont be able to swap to the 4 pin regulator). The 4 pin plugs are like $25-$45 iirc depending on brand and a 15volt setpoint. https://www.dbelectrical.com/products/regulator-electronic-for-denso-0030-0031-126600-0030-126600-0031-230-52108.html Also when you are using your own plug to turn the alt on and not using the factory wiring you NEED to use a 470 ohm 1/2 watt resistor on the L field of the 4 pin plug which turns the alt on other wise you will burn up the voltage regulator. You can also use 3 amp 400 volt diodes on the S field of the plug and then connect it direct to the charging stud to boost charging voltage, 2 diodes will put you around 15.8 volts hot and 3 will give you about 16.1 volts hot. Granted that is probably way to high for LTO cells, but my CMAX thrives at those voltages.
    1 point
  15. If they seem ok,I wouldn't worry too much. I'm sure they're a bitch to get in and out. Even with a USB, I still wouldn't max out my phones volume
    1 point
  16. That's good lookin' right there!
    1 point
  17. Looking at that box size and internal volume that you have it seems like two much higher power 10' subs ported might be doable, specially if you can lift further. My first step would be determining what box size you can do after installing the lift and decide your next step based on that information.
    1 point
  18. Well, before you go a completely different route.... How did you go about setting the gains on your amplifier? Those sound digital amps will do their rated power easy, and with those subs only being about 450 watt RMS, if you're sending too much of a clipped signal to those subs, they won't last long. How do you have your crossovers set on your amp? Do you have any electrical upgrades on the truck? Do you have an aftermarket head unit? Or are you using a line out converter? What are you using as a source for your music? A phone or something else?
    1 point
  19. Density only helps you if you're out of space to fit more. If that's not a worry, then I wouldn't sweat it. Reminders: - Get a cell balancer - makes sure all the individual cells stay at an equal state of charge. - Don't mix and match chemistries (or even sub chemistries). Delete your under hood battery. Granted LTO is way less sensitive to this. But still not ideal. - Convert your alternator to external regulation or otherwise make sure it's constant voltage. No hot/cold charge voltage. LTO is less sensitive to this because of the sheer cycle count and durability. But you still don't want to overcharge when cold or lose out on capacity when hot. Generally speaking, LTO is a wonderfully forgiving chemistry. Overcharging only reduces capacity(damages cells) - very low fire risk. Same with too much heat. So this stuff is less about safety and more about actually getting the capacity expected. 80ah of battery only holds at the appropriate state of charge. Charging low really sacrifices capacity. e.g. 6 cells in series. LTO is ~95% charged at 2.6v per cell, with full charge at 2.8v per cell. So if you're at 2.6v per cell, that's 15.6v for the whole battery. Nearly 100% charge - that's good. If, however, you're charging at 14.6v, that's 2.43v per cell, which is ~80% charge - not great, not terrible. 14v? Now you're down to about 60% charge on the pack. So that 80ah of capacity you paid for is only offering 48ah under these conditions. I think XS power is even more conservative with these measurements on their units
    1 point
  20. Thanks! I used great stuff big gap filler.. I made sure I covered all body panels with painters tape though, just in case the plastic needs to come off for any reason
    1 point
  21. I think I’m gonna add another power run and a second ground for my battery but thanks! I do like it and it’s violent lol
    1 point
  22. Box rise or impedance rise, I call it the same thing. Once you put power to the subs and it plays it rises. Everyone calls it something different, it's still the same. I'm happy you got it running, and once broke in it should get louder.
    1 point
  23. I fixing to do a box design like this in my 06 crew cab Silverado for 2 sundown x 18”s
    1 point
  24. Well, as long as you figured out the problem and are happy with the sound, that's all that matters bud!
    1 point
  25. Did a little sealing from the rear this afternoon. foamed all rear body panels, between body & plastics then made shims for between plastics and box. Currently waiting for cure then ill work on the beauty panel. it'll be a mix of black suede and a forged carbon vinyl wrap
    1 point
  26. I had no idea until I was putting it together that there is no space behind the mobo like almost all new cases now days for cable management since the panel sits flat against the mobo panel. I even tried to run my thin fan cables behind and the panel wouldnt close. lol so no cable management possible in this thing.
    1 point
  27. Back seat and rear are now fully striped. Wire clean up and center console removal for the front. Going to put down a rubber sound deadened spray and dynamite before reapolstering and creating a speaker box for the rear deck. Trying to figure out if/how I want to add some subs to it.
    1 point
  28. Had an injury so I was out of commission for a while, still have to wait to heal to do body work. Finally able to start light interior work though. Removed a lot of useless switches and wiring. Got the backseat completely removed and about to start cleaning the base metal and plot wiring runs.
    1 point
  29. Well, either amp asks for 1/0 gauge, so you should use that size to your amp and for your ground from your amp. If you use car audio cable such as Sky High Car Audio cable, Knukonceptz cable, or Full Tilt cable (there are other quality brands of car audio cable, these are just the ones that came to mind), make sure to use OFC (oxygen free copper) not CCA (copper clad aluminum).OFC is quite a bit more conductive than CCA, making it able to safely transfer more amperage. Welding wire is pure copper, so as long as you protect it, it should be fine. One thing to know when using welding cable is the size. Car audio cable is oversized, and welding cable follows the American wire gauge standard sizing. So 1/0 welding cable is a true 1/0 size, but car audio cable 1/0 is more closer to 2/0 welding cable (AWG) size. So take from that what you will
    1 point
  30. Yes but that's my minimum size going off of the box I made for the 3 12s, so I know that when I do the new box I will have MORE than that, tomorrow I'm going to remove some of the trim surrounding my trunk so that I can have more accurate measurements and I'll post those measurements along with the measurements for if i chose to do a whole wall behing the rear seats.
    1 point
  31. You definitely maximized the space in there. Looks very clean!
    1 point
  32. 1 point
  33. Started out arranging lithium, caps, amps & distribution all where the back seat was but it just wouldn't fit. All lithium, caps & distro will now be in the rear
    1 point
  34. No if you start smelling them turn it down...May only be glue burning off but is it worth ruining your equipment?
    1 point
  35. All the way up, and or, allowing all the frequencies to go through
    1 point
  36. 1 point
  37. That doesn't seem to be Russian/Baltic birch like it says. To me it looks like its 5ish ply (layers), rather hard to tell though by the low quality pics and not being able to see the edge clearly. So I would say it is probably a Birch plywood with a softer core on the inner plys like Douglas Fir and a Russian/Baltic top and bottom ply for aesthetics. So that would be similar to the type of Birch, Maple, Oak plywood's you find at your typical big box stores. The big box stores Birch plywood is typically what a lot of people in car audio refer to as Baltic Birch ply when it is just regular Birch ply that is not fully 100% Birch and really only like 4% Birch. These same people claim it to be lighter in weight than MDF which is true, but they do not understand how and why (even after being explained). Real Russian/Baltic Birch is about 80ish lbs per 4by8 sheet. MDF is about 90ish lbs per 4by8 sheet. Regular Birch, Maple, Oak plywood's are about 50ish lbs per sheet which is the same weight as regular plywood. I'm using 3/4 inch thick sheets for all these examples. The reason why those are so much lighter in weight is due to the inner cores being that soft wood that are typically from Douglas Fir. I know real Russian/Baltic Birch that is 3/4 inch thick is 13 ply (layers), and all plys are true Russian/Baltic Birch hardwood, but that wood in the classified listing is 1/2 inch so typically a real Russian/Baltic Birch ply that is 1/2 inch thick is 9 plys, and 1/4 inch thick is 5 plys. Granted this will usually change a little depending on manufacture of the wood, but it typically only changes by 1 ply/layer and not 4 like in the classified ad. Now that I have that information out of the way and you are hopefully some what better educated that wood for $10 per 6 pieces with a $100 minimum (so you will have to get at least 60 pieces of it according to the classified listing) is a steal of a price even if it is the cheaper Birch ply and not real Russian/Baltic wood. I would buy as much of it as I could afford even if I didn't need all of it due to current wood pricing. I would probably find a use for the extra wood that I didn't need and build a few extra boxes to sell to other local bass heads or something!! 17 by 48 is a decent size panel and is rather large enough for most boxes. Now if it was a box being made for myself I wouldn't have an issue doubling up the wood to make a larger panel than what the wood is, after all how its made is each ply is alternated and glued so you would be doing the same thing as the factory does. Make sure to use 100% glue coverage and spread it evenly between the layers, and don't go too thick. Also 100% glue coverage between the edges of the panels where they but together. Then you will want to brad nail or screw both layers together and if screwing go at least 3 inches apart from screw to screw nothing closer than that. Screws too close together can and will weaken the wood so no closer than 3 inches. Some people will mark a grid on the wood prior to gluing it so they know where to put every screw.
    1 point
  38. First things first,.. do you see SIGNAL ?????? Lets not worry about the distortion light yet. Do you see the 1k or 40hz signal on the dd1 first ?
    1 point
  39. You can add me I'm in Kalamazoo MI I got a dd1+ and a cc1 and some extra knowledge
    1 point
  40. Chief, if that's where you at with box design and build knowledge - I'd strongly recommend against going with a wall. Play around with smaller stuff, get your feet under you, then play around with the big stuff. I think coming into this trying to big out of the gate is going to set you up for a lot of frustration, lost time, and lost money.
    1 point
  41. Also got my rock lights back to working. Had a lil hiccup when the lift was installed. Got them repaired, and working again. 20220526_000307.mp4
    1 point
  42. 1 point
  43. Panels are primered now. Primered will be painted body color
    1 point
  44. Cover is held with magnets Template to make a recess Since it's been so long. This is what it powers
    1 point
  45. Passenger seat delete
    1 point
  46. Got the door panels on and speakers in wired up with easy disconnects. Went ahead and put 80mil sound deadener on the panels also. Added more matt and used a brush to add more spectrum deadener to the doors. After all is said and done. The deadener is as thick as the plastic used to make the dash from lol. No more Chevy rattle can now. The only problem I ran into with everything. Is each freaking pod has one little spot that rubs the dash. I'll have to put either tap or a felt dot there to protect the vinyl. I think my first time came out pretty decent. Had to fix the mm to mil. I just learned it is actually .08" . Never thought about the actual measurements or correct way to say it.
    1 point
  47. Door pods wrapped and getting ready to be mounted to the door. Then I will spray stain the pods and main door. The dark pewter that matches stock colors. The grey insert and trims will be changed to med grey. This is the second time doing vinyl and first time going this far with doing doors. Pretty happy with the way it turned out.
    1 point
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