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jf1984

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About jf1984

  • Rank
    120db
  • Birthday 11/20/1984

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Lisbon, Oh

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  1. Looks like there's going to be some math involved here. I'm going to have to take in account the port itself is going to shrink, the further inside the box. So, where I'm losing port area in the rear of the box, I can make up in the front. By making the port larger, width times height. So in Torres, for instance, 28 high by 15 wide gives me a port area of 420 sq in. Assuming the entire port is 28x15 for its entire length. BUT the port will taper in HEIGHT as it goes inside the box. Trit's port calc is showing I need 283 sq in total. Does it matter what shape the port is as long as the port walls run parallel? If it doesn't matter, then I'm good to go. Just have to build the box and pay major attention to the baffle/port region. I am in no hurry to complete this. Measure twice, cut once.
  2. I see that I left out that I have four ZVX V.2 15's. Wow, can't believe I left that out haha. Spec sheet calls for 4 cubes per woofer. I'll be running 2 rp3500s not strapped, 2 woofers per amp. Picked up my alts earlier. The 12s are in a 6 cu ft box currently. Sounds great. Just looking to go to the next level. I mustered up a cut sheet list from an online cut sheet optimizer. Have to piece everything together, section by section in order to maximize box volume. Problem I'm facing is- port length, and tuning. The box isn't perfectly square from baffle area to rear of box. 51 inches wide, 33 inches tall, to about 14 inches deep. And then the box has to taper inward towards the center of the box on all 4 sides. After 14 inches deep- width goes to 37 inches wide, 20 inches tall at the back window. And however deep I need to achieve the specific volume before calculated port volume, sub displacement etc.
  3. I've been working on this for about 8 hours today. It's now a little after 3 am. I messed with Torres calculator, and I think I might have it figured out. Someone correct me if I did this wrong or if any of the data doesn't make any sense.
  4. Hello everyone. I'm looking to build a wall in the ride soon. I currently have 2 Skar ZVX V.2 12's and want to get some more oomph from the lows. I know absolutely nothing when it comes to tuning and building a box. Wondering if I could be advised by someone with good knowledge on walls in smaller cars. Maybe sell me a cut sheet design? Looking to stay around 32 hz and 4 cubes per woofer. I'm under the understanding I may have to modify the chassis to build a large box. That's fine with me. The space available before chassis modifications are Height-30 Depth-20 Width-40. That gives me 11.75 cu ft before port, sub and bracing. Now I can cut out the rear deck sheet metal to allow the rear of the box to taper along the rear windshield. Which will give me up to around 19 cubes total available. I'm probably gonna get the fifth degree for cutting the inside of the car, but all constructive criticism is welcome.
  5. Bit too late in the game to worry abt $. I know I effed up to begin with. The type r rate an extra 250 rms each over the type s. And I'm gaining 500 rms more from the new amp. And im only payin extra 180$ for new stuff with full warranties. I'm sure in a better built box I should get better response.....well hopefully. If I had done more research, most likely could have ended up with better period. But I suppose that's how we all learn lol. Next year is gonna be a more planned out and better setup, and no shit ass dealer. For sure.
  6. I asked him (the dealer) and they don't use an o-scope. Interesting, huh? Well, the subs are on warranty exchange now for type-S's and the amp on exchange for the Alpine MRX-M110 instead of the Pioneer. 750 RMS each on the subs and 1100 RMS on the amp. Will still be set up as 2 ohm. At least this time, I can run those at a more stable level and possibly get a little more out of it all....instead of having to beat the amp to get anything worth the $. So (his prices) I spent 680$ on the 2 type-R's, a box, and the Pioneer amp. 180$ more and I can get more power and be more stable, no bass knob this time. This coming Monday Should I run these woofers in separate ported holes or together with one port? And what spec in the manual am I looking for as far as tuning the port goes?
  7. Ouch on the black coils. But to answer your question on the rms. your amp puts out 500rms at 2ohms times 1. So since you are running 2 subs off that 500rms you need to divide 500 by 2 so each sub is getting 250rms. Your amp does not count how many subs you have attached to it all it knows is that there is a 2ohm load so it puts out 500rms and it gets split equally at the subs. ( if I am wrong please some one correct me) but to property power those a 1000rms( actuall power) or 1200rms amp would be good.This^^^ Would it be obtuse to say clipping done in the coils? Dealer said I am putting plenty of power to them, I think he just wanted to sell the amp.
  8. The dealer has warranty that covers everything but puncture. Going up today to exchange them. New amp is on the list. If I have an amp that puts out more than the rms of subs, I can always turn the amp down. New box too, just need to figure out a design befitting the specs on the subs. Probably around 30hz instead of 42 lolz. And a half cube more per hole. Should I run the subs separately in the enclosure or both on one port?
  9. LOL I know. The guy at the dealer put 14g wire on the two middle terminals, and on one of the subs it had broken/rattled free. The sub terminal to box terminals were 10g. I don't know if that makes any difference but I want to assume the blackened bottom coils are why they sounded like "bottoming" at certain freq. They didn't always sound that way. 2 things I can make a guess on, didn't break the suspension in fully before I threw all 500 at them and/or clipping. While clipping the signal delivered to the subs isn't stable and may have sent spikes high enough to overheat the bottom ones enough to cause this. So in reality, those are only 250w/coil RMS. and a constant signal strain could be just enough. 1500 max/pc (or so the speakers claim)
  10. http://i1316.photobucket.com/albums/t614/jfalk1417/20130612_0605081_zps8e6072d9.jpg http://i1316.photobucket.com/albums/t614/jfalk1417/20130612_0559131_zpsd092c66d.jpg This is why my subs sound like doodoo. How is this possible when I'm only running 500 watts RMS through 2 subs? Subs are dual 2 ohm 500 RMS each. Amp is 500 RMS @ 2 ohm. Good thing there's a warranty on them. (They are wired at 2 ohm btw)
  11. Bass is set -8 on the deck. The gain on the amp is set under the normal position...so 1/4 the way up. I'm using the bass knob halfway. Reason I mentioned the Alpine 1100w rms amp is I can always turn it down if it's too hard on the subs, and not have to beat the amp to get power from it. Don't get me wrong, those above songs sound clean. Just the popping sound during certain freq. Now I can play "BME Click" by Lil' Jon full blast with no abnormal sounds. That one sounds the best out of the ones mentioned. And it's pretty constant on the bass as you may already know. My voltage at the amp and at the battery never drops under 12.5V. I'm going to check all ground areas thoroughly. If my ground isn't sufficient, will the voltage be the same at the battery and amp? My lights never dim. Last voltage check I did was with interior lights on, 4-ways and headlights. (testing strain)
  12. On songs such as "Bass, I Love You"- the lower notes I have to turn them down, they make a sound like they're bottoming. Also on higher bass notes. Ex. Paul Wall's "Gimme That". I would imagine they're clipping (heat on the coil area). If I play "Grey Goose" by the Ying Yang twins the amp shuts off during the lower notes. Just giving music for what's happening and when. It's the old one, silver top.
  13. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_45517_Alpine-MRX-M110.html Found this. Can get it cheaper on ebay, 260$ shipped.
  14. Probably wasted 300$ on that amp. Nice. Should have just waited and done some more thorough research, but reading is different than hearing/experiencing. Suggestions on a decent amp for around 400$? I will change the box, should notice a difference. Should I start a new thread on ideas/input on a box design?
  15. The guy at the dealer told me that amp is under rated... Idk, the coil area on the subs get pretty warm after running them for a while. Gain set at a hair under "normal" level. I agree 100% on the box especially after reading the specs.
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