pk222

it would make most sense to me to put it port up subs up because the glass is really slanted which would make it project forward the best but what makes sense is not always what the best option is. and I need to keep my back seats so I really don't think that is an option because I could barely fit a single 15 back there in a box way to small for it, it was almost wedged in between the wheel weals What do you guys think about 1 *** trash or fi q 12 sub up port up with aero ports? if so in what size box and what tuning?

how do you guys think an 12 in *** trash would sound compared to the fi q?

sounds good to me, I have always liked the fi q but have never heard one in person so I will probably go with that. What should I port the box to? and I don't really know how to make a slot ported box but I have a calculator for aero ports, would aeros be ok? also would it be ok if they weren't flared? if not can you point me in the right direction for finding out how to design a slot ported box? thanks for your help and quick replys

thats what I've heard the the fox mustangs were easy to get loud in, I dont want to get rid of the rear seat, I know that would be the easiest rout but I have people with me too often for that.

Whatever anyone recommends for size and quantity but I would like to go with either 2 10s or 1 12. I was thinkin about 200-250 for the sub or subs which I know is a really tight budget but I have to get a new amp too.

Hey guys, Ive got an 89 mustang hatchback and was wondering if anyone could recommend a box style and possibly be able to give me some plans or just advice or if you know the tuning frequency, I doubt anyone would know the tuning frequency but just thought maybe because its a really common car. Also, I'm trying to find out what subs to use. Right now I have some really old skool 10 in rockford fosgates in my mustang in a crappy sealed box with an audiobahn amp. It sounds decent but unless the bass notes are long the subs sound fuzzy which i'm not really worried about because I'm just barrowing the subs and giving them back soon. What would you guys recommend for a good daily budget subs? I have been looking into a few different companies but don't know much about them. some of them are the rockford fosgate t1, the shiva x, and the css sd12, and an fi q. I'm going for sound quality but I still want it loud and this is for my daily car. I know the shiva x and the css sd12 are supposed to be home audio subs but somone recommended them so I don't know because I have never heard them along with all the subs I mentioned What kind of sub or subs do you guys think would fit in to what im trying to get out of my build? thanks for any help in advance

do you still have the amp?

he works at the chevy dealership

the new duramax diesel is rated for 500 hp at the wheels is what the dyno sheet said that my friend ran. than after getting the factory options of the cold air intake the chip and the banks exhaust he brought me another dyno sheet that was like 746 so maybe he was messin with me and hookep up propane or meth injection but i know he spent around another 4-5 grand for the performance parts and the only part i know the price of was the banks exhaust was 1500 for i dont know what model. and i forgot to mention a smaller turbo pulley, so unless he was using somone elses truck dyno sheet thats what it was

what kind of truck is it and what year? i know with the new ones with a chip an intake and exhaust on the new duramax diesels are runnin 750 horses.

hey guys, i need some help with my speakers in my mustang. i have a pioneer deh-p5900ib head unit, 8 speakers throught the car. there are 2 kicker 4in in the dash, 6.5 polks in the doors, 2 kicker tweeters right above the door frame right in your ear, and 2 polk 6/9s in the rear. i know the polks have to go, but it doesnt seem like theres enough output to be able to hear them with subs. i like bass but i like my stereos well rounded, i like hearing everything. i didnt install the stereo in my car it came with the speakers only and no wires at all ran for the speakers. i got all the wiring done and put in the head unit and it sounds good but it seems like it really lacks for haveing 8 speakers and having the tweeters right in your ear. i dont know if he has the crossover set up for the tweeters so it might not be getting the right frequency, i had the wires and recever installed at circuit city because it was free for everything all they charged me was for the reciever. the guy who i baught the car from said he ran amps to the speakers, i dont know wheather to do this or not. i really dont know a lot about speakers so would the amp add output or clarity? if i hooked up an amp to them would it make them louder or just make them distort? there is no distortion at all right know other than the passenger door speakers blown im planning on getting a single 12 fi q with probably a cheep hifonics amp or if i have the patience to wait get a us amps md1. would this be a good match?

ok i didnt think about it that way thanks, makes a lot more sense now i looked on ikesound and it said it had a 3 30 amp fuses and i just didnt get it. a lot of their stuff is set wrong, and i didnt mean to thread jack sorry didnt know you were talking about your own product

us amps md3s are 388 shipped on ikesound but do they really put out that power? isnt the way u check to see how many watts rms is by the fuze rating? if im wrong please correct me but it has a 90 amp fuze rating shouldnt it be 900 watts?

on my jl w7 i thought i cracked the cone but somone looked at it and said i only cracked the dustcap i called jl and asked about a recone and they said itd b around 250-300 i didnt ask about just ordering the dustcap though does anyone know if they will just sell that and if so how much and how hard it would b to put in thanks everyone in advance

unless u get a modded 351 your downgrading unless your 4.6 is the 2 valve cuz its a modular motor and the 351 isnt and if u get a 351 get the windor not the clevlind