pk222

anyone? I know its going to be trial and error making the box but I have no idea of what I should do for a trunk car.

I know I talked to him a couple months ago

or would there be a big enough difference to spring for the audioque hdc312? I want to still have some sound clarity too

hey guys, I just picked up a 95 cobra. It has the mach 460 system which actuall isn't that bad with the pioneer head unit. It has great mid bass but I need some lows. I'm not sure what subs I'm going to go with. I want a single dc lvl 3 12. I will probably temporarily run that off my audiobahn crappy amp and then what should I look into getting for it? I was thinking either the dc lvl 3 or possibly a rockford fosgate stage 3 because of how cheep they are and they dont sound too bad. I know the box depends on the sub and also on the car its going in. I don't have the sub yet but I want to get an idea of what kind of box I will be making. should I go ported or sealed because its a coup? also should I have the sub or subs facing the back or into the seats? I'm just looking for recommendations because I've never put anything in a car that wasn't a hatchback. thanks in advance.

I dont have any subs to sell you but just wanted to let you know that perfecting a box with a mach 5 probably wont help that much when you change to the dc. recommended box sizes for the mach 5 18 are 2.8 sealed 4.5 ported to 30 hz the recommendation on the dcs are 5.75 cu ft ported. I know you probably aren't going to stick with the recommendations from the manufacture but judging by that and their specs they will require different boxes to sound their best.

anyone?

dont buy compustar either. almost the same problems but expensive company... random times mine will say their is no signal and if i press the button like 20-30 times it might work. other than that usually the only thing that resets it is unlocking the car with the key while the alarm is on and turning the ignition on and off 5 times and that sets the remote to valet mode. take it out of valet mode and its find for a few weeks. lol usually always messes up at the worst time. leavin a friends house late and get ready to leave after my friends pass out and then have to break into my car... almost always the same situation lol I dont know if your alarm but if it ever wont let you in your car at all try unlocking it with the key and turning the ignition on and off 5 times to disarm the alarm and it should send it to valet mode. unless you have a set up that has something to disable the starter like me.. still works but if it dosent for some reason wouldnt be able to use my car at all and would have to rip out the entire brane of the alarm system. good luck, I still havent found a company that will check out my alarm that dosen't want 9 hour job out of it.

hey guys I'm thinking of painting my 89 mustang gt. currently it is painted gloss black and it's decent but could be much better. the reason for getting my car painted is that first i need to put on my new front bumper but need it painted, second I need a huge dent removed because of a retarded AAA guy trying to tow my car by my gas filler neck.... I can get the labor done for almost free even with the dent but I need to decide on whether I'm going to paint the whole car or just the front bumper and if when the dents is pulled around that. any idea on approximately how much it will be for primer, paint, clear and any other necessities? Friend already has the gun and prep tools. I don't need anything extremely hi quality, just decent enough to make it worth painting the car. thanks in advance for any info also I live in northern california about an hour away from modesto and stocton if that helps at all

all right cool, thanks for all your help guys and I'll post install pics in maybe a month or 2

rusty sent me the prices but how do I actually order from them?

still waiting for a reply from rusty, anyone know if hes logged on in the past couple days?

if I buy one I'll most likely only use it on this box. lately I've been threw a lot of boxes because of subs that I'm either barrowing been given in exchange for a box or building for someone else but once I get my new subs and amp set up that I'm actually buying what I want I'll most likely use it once unless I come up with a better idea for a box.

o all right makes enough sense. I wouldn't have a problem buying a refurbished amp unless they didnt tell me and charged me full price. but then again there wouldnt be a way of knowing right?

I don't really understand refurbishing. like I dont understand the problem with it from what I know of it. isnt it something thats been sent back to the factory and was fixed with new parts? if so than whats wrong with that?

ok thats what I was thinkin about that amp, was just curious. thats where I found the t1 also. so maybe just because of that I'll be more leaned towards the dc sounds subs. ok thanks for all your help with everything and I didnt know about the review on ikesound thats good to know. I'll pm wca rusty and see what the prices are and withen a few months I'll post when completed.

I'm not picky with brands and I don't care what it is as long as it sounds good and is in my price range.

I cant find prices for the dc sounds subs. also I havent heard much about them other than spl and thats not all what I'm going for. I was thinkin about 2 type r 12s. their on ebay in a set for $210 but I dont think I have enough space for them. I never thought about the ssds because I've never seen anyone use them by themselves. I was thinking about possibly getting this amp instead. http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/6617 would that be a better choice?

I already have everything else. I already have a decent system in my car. I have 1 gauge power and ground wires run. I have a pioneer deh5900 head unit, kicker and polk speakers run by a kenwood kac 848 amp. all I'm looking for is a different sub and amp set up. so ya the $400 is for both the sub and amp which I know isnt much but for now its what I have to work with.

anyone?

lol. ya. I want to try using a router but dont want to buy something for $200 plus and only use it once.

I have an 89 mustang hatchback and about 3-max 4 cubes of room to work with. without a rear seat delete. I want something decently loud with good sound quality. and I have around $400 to spend on subs and an amp which I know isn't much but I saw how much type rs are on ebay and their pritty cheep so I was thinking that rout but dont know because I've never heard them other than in really shitty boxes.

o all right. I should have thought about that. any ideas if thats a good amp for a single t1 12? and even if the t1 12 would be enough? I know you can never really have enough but for a budget set up with good sound quality? and running of that amp.

I was going to get a single t1 12 because thats all I really have space for. the t2 is out of my price range. I found the t1 for 160 shipped. and its in a 89 mustang hatch so it should be good enough for a daily set up any thoughts? also since I'm most likely only running one should i get a different amp? is there a difference between the 1206d and the 1208d?

hey guys I'm finally ordering a 12 in rockford t1 and planning on running it on a hifonics bxi 1206d and was wondering if I should get d2 or d4? I dont understand the ohm configurations completly. Also I was wondering if I should go with the 1208d instead. I dont know if theres a difference or not any recommendation?

just curious do you know if they have metal dome tweeters or silk dome? I havent found a site with them that says