pk222
-
Posts
437 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Media Demo
Store
Collections
Videos
Posts posted by pk222
-
-
Its in the t top hatch in a pre fab aiming at the glass. I'm thinking of just making a regular square box that would be larger to set in there but if I'm already pushing the subs to bottoming out then a bigger box I don't think would be the answer would it?
-
I might just try the amp and see how it goes from there. If I can't find any designs on boxes I'll try to make a 3 cube sealed box, but I thought the d cons called for 1.25 per sub?
-
I was expecting you to recommend a way more expensive amp but I'll try that out if I can sell mine.
As far as the box, the biggest I can go is maybe 3 cubes total. its in the hatch of a 98 camaro there isn't much room there
-
the amp was only $200 and came with a warranty. I picked it up just temporary to run 2 planet audio 12s then those blew and I upgraded subs but doesn't really seems like they sound any than the planets I got for $70 each
-
what amp do you guys recommend for these subs? their dual 4 ohm
and does the box I have planned sound ok?
-
I could see the amp causing crappy sound quality but it cant be that big of a difference in loudness can it? and I was thinking of doing a 2.5 cube box aero ported in the center to around 33 hz. Would that be better for these subs? I know their built for small ported enclosures
-
hey guys, I've got a 98 camaro hatch running 2 12 in ssa d cons to a boss 3500 d amp. My friends got a single cab ranger running 2 12 in kicker comps off some cadence 1000 rms amp. I don't understand how his is so much louder and cleaner. it makes me disappointed that I spent almost $300 to upgrade subs and being outplayed by the ones he picked up for $100.
Does this sound right or did I do something wrong? Their both in sealed prefab boxes. Mine sounds decent and I know I don't have a nice amp but its more than enough to push the 300 rms each d cons. My amps is rated at 1300rms at 1 ohm which I know is an overstatement but with the gain a little less than half it pushed the subs to bottoming so I backed it off a little more.
-
power steering whine is a common thing on fords. I replaced the power steering pump on both my mustangs and still had the whine and the racks weren't bad. Just about every ford I have seen that is over a year old has the same whine. If you get your rack and pump checked out and their in good condition you'll just have to live with the noise. Turn up the stereo haha
The brake fluid made the noise a little quieter but it was still there
-
how much power can they handle? I've seen it say 300 and 400 rms but I think they should take my amp fine.
-
what were you pushing it with and what kind of box?
I don't want to have to replace these to in a couple months..
-
-
I was thinking the same when I got this amp just as a budget stand in. but it seems to do pretty well so I'm thinking of running it a little longer and see how it does. It says 1300 rms at 1 ohm but I'm thinking maybe 1000 rms clean. Its 3 35 amp fuses so it should be at least 1000 rms. don't you think?
-
Hey guys, Trying to find out what would be the best choice between the ssa dcon for 250 the diamond audio for around the same or 2 12 kicker comps for 200.
This will be in a small prefab sealed box in a 98 camaro off a boss 3500d which is supposed to be 1200 rms at 1 ohm. I listen to mostly rap
Thanks in advance
-
As far as I know the budget speakers that can't be topped are still the phoenix gold rsd's. They should be in your price range if you search around.
-
does that sound like the right tuning, port area and dimensions? like I stated above I've heard the re enclosure calculator has had problems
-
I know some of you guys have used these with limited space
-
anyone know if this sounds like a good idea or have any better suggestions?
-
hey guys, I'm thinking of getting a budget sub just for a couple months until I can get what I really want and I was thinking of a single type r 12. Eventually I want an fi q.
This will be going in my 95 mustang so theres not that much trunk space. I was told to go around 2.5 cubes ported to 34 hz. does this sound right for this sub?
The design I'm looking at is sub back slot ported back. The measurements are 25 w/ 13 h/ 20 d. so I should have around 2.3 cubes. The total port length is 28.5 in by 3 in wide and the port area is 34.5 in. and the calculator I'm using says this should be around 34.5 hz. Does this sound like a good design to you guys? If you have any other ideas I'm open to anything I just need to make sure it will fit in my car. This will be the first real ported box I have built. I tried one other time and it didn't end up bad but it was just ported with an abs pipe as an aero port and port area wasn't even considered so I'd really like to do it right this time.
I'm using the re enclosure calculator and I've heard sometimes this is a little off but it was the best I could find without downloading something.
thanks in advance for any help
-
I used to race a xxx-t a couple years ago and had but never raced an hpi nitro evo. I was thinkin the same thing as most about the gas cars being way more fun than the electrics until the person I sold my xxx-t put a brushless system in it. now that thing is crazy.
I threw way too much money into these. probably 4-5 grand in a time span of 2 years and never stopped breaking things but it was still fun while it lasted.
-
true on both. I don't know then it seems like your stuck. last thing it comes down to then is how much horsepower and torque you want to make.
You would have a lot better luck finding info on this on a mustang forum. I don't know if your part of any but allfordmustangs.com, mustangforums.com and corral.net are great places and will have probably have a couple people that have gone both routes.
-
In my opinion I think you would be happier with the stroked 351. 73 I'm pritty sure was the heaviest mustang made and adding a big block to that unless your going stroked and blown drag car wouldn't be worth it. I don't know whether your planning on building your own engine or having it built but if your buying a shortblock either fordstrokers.com or dssracing.com would be great companies to deal with. I myself haven't but I've heard great reviews on both.
-
I also just received a head unit from him. great seller to deal with. great packaging, product was very clean and almost seams new. A+ seller
-
one thing you could do is swap the cams from the auto l69 cam to the manual l69 cam. the manual transmission cars had a more aggresive cam then the autos did. headers even equal length shortys will help you out, and whoever said full lengths will make you lose torque is full of it. full length headers have always been known for a good lowend torque boost. brodix and world make 305 heads check into those
actually long tubes on a completely stock engine do make it lose low end. check some flow and dyno charts. just about every dyno sheet I've ever seen with a car with long tubes and a stock engine compared to shortys had less low end. it had more high end horsepower obviously but hes looking for low end.
long tubes would give him overall more peak torque but higher in the rpm range and a shorter peak
I'm not tryin to start an argument over this just saying what my experiences are to what he wants to make out of his car.
-
if youv'e got a 400 small block already why even waste the money on this engine? I didn't suggest that because of how hard they are to find.
disapointment
in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.
Posted
I'll try making a box in the t top well as big as I can and if I cant do over 3.5 cubes I'll just do a sealed 3 cube box. I just don't see how everyone says 2 12s in my car should slam even if they were crap and it doesn't seem like much. Thats why I was mad about friends system sounding better than mine for confirming that mine isn't what I was hoping for at all