Jump to content

EVAlonSo

Members
  • Posts

    145
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by EVAlonSo

  1. I still dont understand how the installer could have hooked it up to the headlights if the parking lights flash normally during lock/unlock use. just look and see if you can pop your headlight switch out and see if the gray/black wire is tapped. Or look under the left rear seat and see if the brown wire is tapped. if the installer hit the headlights it would be a white wire at the switch or a white wire under the left rear seat.

    If he hooked up directly to the headlights, the headlights would flash consistently. the parking lights flash consistently and the headlights only flash when unlocking with remote start.

    If the installer did wire to the headlights, i would like someone to explain how the parking lights flash during normal use and not the headlights

  2. Its pretty hard to hook up the headlights instead parking lights if the installer is testing their wires. what seems to be the issues here is the DRLs. if its the vehicle, besides just permanently disabling the feature, i would take your status output wire from the alarm ( negative trigger when remote starting) and wire to a relay to interrupt your headlights. as soon as you hit the remote start button, the headlights will be disconnected. Once the car has started, the relay will shut off and they will be back to normal again. Very simple setup and seems like it will solve the problem. its sort of like the new toyotas where you need to interrupt the auto light feature to turn the lights off. If the shop is reputable with good installers this is a very simple fix

  3. 85 - unlock (neg pulse)

    86 - 12v

    87 - empty

    87a - headlights (switch side) since u have relays on your HIDs, make this the car side of the switch that powers the relay

    30 - the other side of the switch that powers your relay.

    basically 30 and 87a will be connected always unless the unlock is fired, then 30 and 87a will disconnect for a second, and 30 ( your ballast ) will be connected to nothing ( 87 - empty )

  4. N/O stands for normally open circuit (power passing through normally, when triggered it goes to closed) N/C is normally closed, the exact opposite. it depends on whether you have negative or positive door locks. ( door locks that have power then go to 0 when locked, or locks that rest at 0 and go to 12v when triggered)

    i would just make sure you have your 12v, ignition, starter, and accessory all powered. you will only need 5 wires at the ignition column unless you have a 2nd ignition or 2nd accessory/3rd accessory. A lot of times R/S alarms need to be programed out of the box to remote start (viper). if your neutral safety is on and all of the wires are hooked up check programing. does it even try to remote start?

×
×
  • Create New...