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Even in my first clamp run with the bassknob not all the way up, the ac voltage was lower than the ac amperage. And during that run, I didn't go over my max tuned volume.

I probably was clipping during the test because I accidentally went to volume 28 instead of my max tuned 27 at one point. Should I redo the test without going over my max volume? 40Hz @0dB (the test tone I used to set my gains with. There was no clipping when I set the gains without a load. Should I connect the oscope to the speaker wires while running the clamp test to see if it's clipping?

The Positive lead of the DMM was connected to a jumper wire that is connected to the positive speaker input into the DC5K Vice-versa for the Negative lead to the negative speaker wire input. Pics of the jumper cable I used: The clamp meter was clamped around the positive speaker wire. Should I touch the two jumper wire ends together to see if there were any resistance with the jumper cables?

I did it last night and it read 0.1ohms

Here is a video of my first DC 5K clamp run. This one I forgot to turn the bassknob all the way up so the output power will be lower. http://youtu.be/x5e3zFG70Rc

What's weird is when I measure closest to the DC5K speaker inputs it oscillates from 0.8ohms to 0.9ohms When I measure close to my speaker box output terminals it oscillates between 0.7ohms to 0.8ohms. I will make a video of the measurements when I get home later. Is 0 box rise even possible? All I know is my DC Audio system sounds like crap with the sub box that I have now compared to my old sub setup.

DC Voltage went down to 11.5 Nominal resistance with the subs inside the box is 0.8ohms. 0.77 reactive bad or good? Actually the DC Voltage is probably 11.3V because I haven't recalibrate the Stinger Meter yet. Stinger Meter is .2V too high than what my DMM reads. When we do this we only care for the max results right? Because it looks like the AC Voltage was more steady around 63V.

Update: I just rewatch the video and I saw 66.2 for the max voltage. So, 66.2V*85.8A = 5680Watts!

Update: These videos are not accurate because the Pmax function on my clamp meter was not working properly. See new thread here: _______ (I will post thread link later once I've uploaded all of the clamp runs). http://youtu.be/8k1C5W1nLNA The only mistake I made during the clamp test was I went 1 volume over the max tuned volume on my headunit. I don't think this will effect the results except the fact that I probably sent dirty power for that 1/2 second. I rolled the volume up and down a little bit at one point so that is why you will see the voltage go up and down at one point.My DMM didn't have peakhold so I had to record it.Results:65.3V AC * 85.8A AC5602.74 Watts MaxDC Voltage dropped down to about 11.5V during the clamp.My DC Audio system doesn't sound as loud as my old 1200W eD system so I really hope getting a new box built by CJ will help the output. I still have to find a new place to put the XP3000 if I want to do this just to make space inside the trunk. Maybe put the XP3000 behind the passenger seat? Who knows. I wish I had more room to work with.

I need more batteries for my DC5K then? I'd get more batteries for my car but the trunk is so limited in space and my rear is already sagging

Got all of my gains setup. Apparently I've only been powering each sub with about 950W RMS because my stock alternator can't handle anything more. 50hz @0dB tone was used to set gains on the DC5K. I am way under powering these subs. Next up, I will install the Singer Alternator and retune my gains for a higher and more proper power.

Alright I'll do it the correct way so that I don't have to go back and retune everything in the future. The last thing I want is to have some weird slope from the filter settings affecting my tuning.

Alright. Thanks for the help guys. I'll get started tomorrow by installing the RF T800AD amp and do the tuning. All of this is going to take 2-4 weeks to do because I still have to install the Singer Alt and finding ways to reposition the sub box. Right now I'm pretty sure that right sub is shooting SPL towards the back of the seat panel and causing weird sound waves to happen.

This applies for the LPF that I have set to 80hz too right (I don't need to turn it all the way up)? Since I'll be using a 40hz tone the gap is pretty big and shouldn't have any weird filter slopes interfering?

For Step 2 when I go to set the gains on the DC5K with the oscope, should I set my SSF all the way down? In the past I've always tuned it with my custom SSF MOD Filter set to 25Hz. What happens when I have the SSF set to a certain level vs when it's all the way down?

Thanks for the offer but I'll borrow yours as a last resort. I just want to do this how the Car Audio world has been doing it before the million dollar product came out.

I see you guys on here clamp test your new amps to see if they output the power as rated so I'm curious to do that with the DC5K also. I'm just not sure if the XL M2's will be able to handle it -.-

I'm in Oregon. I can't be spending anymore money on Car Audio products right now because I've already put 6 grand+ into this project. The last thing I spend will be a box from Chris.

So, tune the amp with the oscope for a clean signal and calculate it output about 4400W RMS and then clamp it with the subs hooked up to see if I'm getting 4440W RMS?

Can't I just clamp test it and calculate to see how much power the amp is outputting? I just spent $100 on that clamp tester

Another side note: I'm not going to try and use the whole 5K watts from the amp because I only plan on powering 2200W to each sub. So when I go to tune with the amp with the oscope for that square tip, I"m going to lower the gain enough so that I know that clip is gone for sure and then calculate to see how much power it's actually going to give the sub and lower the gain even more if I need to. I'll wait for one of the DC's suggestion before swapping out that custom SSF mod.