Jump to content

Welcome to the SMD forum!

jrath

Members
  • Content Count

    58
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

6 Neutral

About jrath

  • Rank
    120db
  1. 12.8 one day after charging. They sit at 12.8 for months (in my house while waiting to install system).
  2. What are you trying to do? Are the subs dvcs or svcs? I would just run an amp to each sub wired to 1 ohm given that the subs are dvcs.... The subs are SVC. I want the amps to see 1 ohm so I get more power out of them. Hence the reason for strapping.
  3. I have two subwoofers. Each subwoofer is 2 ohms. I have two amps that are 1 ohm stable and capable of strapping. Is this the correct speaker wire strapping configuration: connect the master amp + to subwoofer 1 + connect the slave amp - to subwoofer 2 + connect subwoofer 1 - to subwoofer 2 - Will my amps be putting out 1 ohm power with this strapping configuration?
  4. Thank you guys. I will ground both trunk batteries to the frame. I will ground my amps to the negative battery terminals.
  5. I was under the impression that the "best" ground for trunk batteries and amps would be a 0 gauge wire from the negative battery terminal under the hood rather than the frame/chassis/body. This is why I wanted to run the hood battery to the copper bus bar in the trunk and attach everything to this. I was told that a vehicle frame is skeptical and could carry lots of resistance (metal, rust, etc). I figured the 0 gauge copper wire would be a better option.
  6. I recently bought a copper bus bar and want to use it for grounding my amps. I plan on attaching it to the negative terminal on the battery under the hood and both negative terminals on the two batteries in the trunk. Do I also need to attach it to the chassis as well? Of the three batteries in the car the only one grounded to the chassis is the one under the hood. Any setup options and advice would be greatly appreciated.
  7. Thanks for all the replies so far. I am facing the subs and port into the cab and sealing off the trunk. My rear seats fold down completely. If I move the front baffle right behind my rear seat bracket I can get a great seal, but the height and width are limited. If I move the box back about 10 inches I have more width and height, but the box will be more difficult to seal and deeper in the trunk. I worry I may lose db gains in this position. Any other opinions would be greatly appreciated.
  8. I am having trouble fitting two 12 inch subs and a 6-inch aero port into my front baffle. The aero port has a 8.25 inch cutout and 9.25 inch diameter. This is becoming an issue because I am limited by the size of my front baffle fitting into my trunk. I am thinking about leaving the internal flare on the aero port inside the box but removing the outer flare outside the box. If I do this I only need a 6-inch cutout rather than the 8.25 inch cutout. This will free up some space on my front baffle and I can fit my two 12's. Am I defeating the purpose of the aero port dynamics if I remove the outer flare? Will I lose db gains and increase the risk of port noise? Thank you in advance for all the help.
×
×
  • Create New...