Jump to content
 
 

TZspeakersZac

Members
  • Content Count

    104
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

4 Neutral

About TZspeakersZac

  • Rank
    125db
  • Birthday August 26

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Grand Rapids, MI
  • Interests
    1) Car Audio (of course)
    2) Car Performance
    3) Money
    4) Women
  1. Thanks! Will do. Still interested in buying any that someone may have.
  2. Working subs only please. Cosmetic condition is not a big deal.
  3. I'll look into that, but I'm definitely keeping this thread open. I've talked to Dylan from team asshole spl and he thinks the best approach is to brace the body in the rear. I assume this is since the rear is flexing so much and may be degrading the cabin's seal. I have a bar going from my floor to my ceiling in the front already. I plan to try Dylan's idea later this week and if that doesn't help I'm open to all other suggestions.
  4. I'll take one later on tomorrow... Didn't think to and it's a bit too late now. I'm in Detroit metro, though I'm currently in Mt. Pleasant for the next 3 weeks or so. I didn't know it was called a beauty panel, I'm just using it to seal the cabin and it's anything but pretty at the moment. It's attached by 2 metal brackets on each side of the enclosure (total of 8 )in addition to a load of PL Premium and expanding foam. There are 3 layers, each is glued to the others with titebond III.
  5. Okay maybe this will be more clear. I don't know if the image will show up but this is how my subs are mounted, looking in through the port. It's a 4th. Probably should have made that more clear. This is exactly where it's flexing. On the left of that image is the panel in which I have the port, but it is not flexing. It is just this area. The foam overlaps the MDF a bit by about an inch. There are 2 more sheets behind this one. Before the "lol looks great" I haven't finished making it look all pretty, at least on the outside haha! It's been too cold in Michigan to do any work.
  6. Ok, think I was misunderstood. I did not mean the loading wall was flexing. The box itself does not flex at all, except for the top panel. I thought this was the issue so I braced it last night with some additional 2x4 but it did not fix the wall's flex. I don't know how to add pics, but it's the very outer rim of the baffle sealing off the rear of the cabin. The baffle is about 4 inches wide by 2.25 in thick. This baffle is flexing on the driver's side right next to my head. I left about a 1/2 inch gap between the edge of the wall and the body of the vehicle (which I then filled with expanding foam) to prevent this exact issue, but it clearly did not work.
  7. I can post some pics later, or maybe tomorrow. How would you recommend going about bracing the baffle, or do you mean brace the body? Inside of the box is fine, at least the vented section. It's a 4th. I'll pull a sub and check the sealed section when I go out for pics.
  8. Today, I went to play some music in my truck per usual, and my actual wall portion of my wall is flexing a good 1/4" peak to peak on anything below 28hz. It's never happened before, and started today for seemingly no reason at all. This makes a very audible clicking sound, and it's driving me nuts. The wall is 2.25" thick in itself, and then there's a bunch of expanding foam behind that. Upon getting out of my car I noticed that the entire rear of my truck is now flexing like crazy, so I'm tending to connect the two issues. I think the body may be "slapping" the wall so to speak. Does that seem like the right idea? If so or if not, how do you suggest I combat this?
  9. I think you'd be fine as long as you don't clip it. Just make sure the amps are gain matched or bridged.
  10. Anyone have one for sale?
  11. its the same shit as audiopipe. two audiopipe 1500's in one casing. lowest you can wire is 2 ohms because each amp sees 1 ohm. try running that at 1 ohm strapped (it says it can run that) and see what happens LOL edit: my ap1500 caught fire. and there are two of those in that case. edit 2: serious answer, it will do literally 2000rms at 2 ohms (each amp board inside sees 1 ohm) and probably blow up at 1 ohm. I just did some reading on these, and compared internals of the amps that I read about. It doesn't look the same as the AP, but I also read it's the same as an older unnamed TREO amp. Maybe I should just get one and clamp and see. Edit: Board looks like AP, but the components (caps etc) are different.
×
×
  • Create New...

SMD Chat Room

SMD Chat Room

Please enter your display name