Titan Audio

Looking damn good!! I'm really looking forward to your progress on the truck and trailer since we both have similar setups with similar goals for them. You're on the right track with running wire up to the alternator instead of messing with the converter in the trailer. The converter puts out 30 amps per circuit at best and they are notoriously low quality. They're also not great at charging batteries, especially AGMs, so an intellicharger or something would be nice for when you're at your shop. The fact that you don't seem to be getting any appreciable charging from your truck bothers me. Have checked the plug with meter to see if it's putting out voltage? You did take the relay in the plastic bag in your glove box and put it in the fuse box under the hood? For some reason Ford doesn't install it at the factory or dealership and your truck won't charge the trailer without it. That only gets you 15 or so amps, but it will certainly help when you're running down the road and not connected through the quick connects (I'm assuming you won't keep them hooked up while you are towing down the road). Hopefully that helps. Keep up the good work.

Make sure to do a lot of research on towing a big load like that. Even though you may be below the towing limit, I'd be willing to bet that you are quite above the cargo payload limit when you get fully loaded up. There will be a sticker inside the driver's door frame that will list the cargo load limit. That weight includes your weight beyond 150 lbs, your passengers, fuel, any cargo (coolers, food, etc) and the weight of your trailer on the rear of the truck (tongue weight). Usually toy haulers put about 12 to 15% of their weight on the tongue, so at your 9,000 lb suggested weight of the trailer your looking at a tongue weight between 1,080 and 1,350 lbs. I'll guess that your sticker has a number around 1600 lbs , which leaves you with a cargo capacity of 520 lbs on the high side and 250 lbs on the low side once you subtract your trailer weight. Now you see why a lot of first time trailer owners step up to 3/4 and 1 ton trucks not long after buying their trailer. You always end up with too much trailer. Any towing website or forum will have all the information I'm talking about in way better detail. It's good stuff to know. you must not know about the Eco-boost. It's a towing machine. 9,000 suggested trailer weight? my truck is rated to tow 11,200. I don't plan on filling up the 100 gallon water tank or the 40 gallon fuel tank until i get close to where i am going. That will help. I also am not going to pack it to the brim with heavy stuff. Other than the RZR of course.thanks for the advice bro but i already have all this fully under control. I know all about the F-150 ecoboosts, got one myself. A '14 long bed crew cab. I checked out the post where you posted up your window sticker, I don't see the max tow package listed anywhere on there. Without it, you're stuck in 9,600 lb towing land. Just be really careful, you will be technically overloading the rear axle and suspension with the tongue weight of the trailer and your cargo (Passengers, Fuel for truck, etc). Even with my trailer that weighs 5,700 empty and about 7,000 loaded can be a handful in the wind or rough roads. You're going to be quite a bit above that, so as I say be real careful. I would make a run through the truck scales and see what your rig weighs empty and then when you pick up the trailer run through one more time. The scales will weigh all of your axles (front, rear and trailer) and you can see just how much weight your trailer puts on the rear axle, but also how much your truck-trailer combo weighs. Go one more time once you've loaded down the trailer and now you know how much the trailer weighs loaded. I'd bet you are at least 500 lbs over on the rear axle, once you get the Rzr loaded in and all of your junk for the trip. You might try to load the Rzr as far back in the "garage" as possible which will shift a little weight off the rear axle. Just be safe and don't be surprised if you end up moving up to an F-250 after a while. A trailer that size has 3/4 ton truck written all over it.

Make sure to do a lot of research on towing a big load like that. Even though you may be below the towing limit, I'd be willing to bet that you are quite above the cargo payload limit when you get fully loaded up. There will be a sticker inside the driver's door frame that will list the cargo load limit. That weight includes your weight beyond 150 lbs, your passengers, fuel, any cargo (coolers, food, etc) and the weight of your trailer on the rear of the truck (tongue weight). Usually toy haulers put about 12 to 15% of their weight on the tongue, so at your 9,000 lb suggested weight of the trailer your looking at a tongue weight between 1,080 and 1,350 lbs. I'll guess that your sticker has a number around 1600 lbs , which leaves you with a cargo capacity of 520 lbs on the high side and 250 lbs on the low side once you subtract your trailer weight. Now you see why a lot of first time trailer owners step up to 3/4 and 1 ton trucks not long after buying their trailer. You always end up with too much trailer. Any towing website or forum will have all the information I'm talking about in way better detail. It's good stuff to know.

It seems you have a lot of air space and port. 4.4 cubes per sub and 100 inches of port is definitely on the higher side of what I've seen X-15's in. Where maybe the more educated posters might be able to help out is with two ports I would assume the tuning stays the same but the port area doubles which would leave you with a tune of 23 Hz which I'm sure everyone would agree is very low. I've got a single X-15 D2 on a sundown 2500 in a box (3.5ish net cubes with about 60 inches of port) that is close to the specs that sundown suggests and it works pretty good for a single sub in a crew cab truck. As far as the electrical, the one step you're missing from the big 3 is a ground wire from the alternator case to the ground point on the chassis. A bigger alternator would certainly be useful, I can't imagine that you have more than a 100 amps left for the stereo with the stock alt and a 2500 should need a lot more than that. My 2500 has no problem taking everything my stock 150 alt has and still pull 2 - 35 series agm batteries down into the low 10 volt range temporarily. Hopefully people will start responding soon. It seems some posts take off here and some don't. EDIT - Forgot that this was posted in the sundown forum. You might want to copy paste your original post into a new post in the subwoofer and enclosure section. You'll probably have much larger audience over there to answer questions.