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dharris2488

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Posts posted by dharris2488

  4. voltage drop on d3100 and 4000watt rms

    in XS Power Batteries / Chargers! (and other stuff too)

    Posted · Edited by dharris2488

    How you liking the Taramps? Thought about buying the HD5000 2ohm to support the 12.5-13v situation I'm facing. I realized that I'm not dropping too much voltage (maybe a full volt at full tilt, as long as my batteries are topped off), which is ok to me and everything else is good to go. The Taramps have me interested, but the only thing holding me back is that I heard they don't like vibration to much. How did you get around this issue? I think by adding one more battery and securing the amp, or protecting it from vibrations, and I would be good to go...

  6. Low Voltage? Check out our AVBM 2

    in MechMan Alternators and 12v Accessories

    Posted

    Just want to make sure the regular AVBM, with set screw will work on my Toyota Camry 2013 with a S Series Mechman 240amp alt? This won't fry any of my internal electronics will it? I would LOOOOOVVVVEEEE to actually see above 13.5 volts in my car!!! So frustrating... I'm talking about buying the original AVBM, not this one with the dial and volt meter. Will someone chime in and let me know if it will work? Thanks!

  9. How To: Solder Large Gauge Wire.

    in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring

    Posted

    Flux is some serious stuff... Once I inserted my 1/0 into the closed end filled with molten solder, it was like an instant bond! Bonded so quickly that I couldn't get some of my wires seated all the way down to the end of the terminal. I tried pulling the terminals off as hard as I could pull, and it wasn't going anywhere! They are still good connections and don't seem to be coming loose at all.

    I noticed no one mentioned to sand the inside of the terminals for a better bond. I always sand out the inside with my Dremmel tool, then add small amount of flux, heat the terminal and fill it up with molten solder, then as quickly as i can keeping safety in mind, jam the wire into the lug. Solid hold withing 2-3 seconds.

  10. Fuse Block for 240a S-Series Mechman?

    in MechMan Alternators and 12v Accessories

    Posted

    Damn, I like that resistance ;) For my car, the ground run I upgraded are engine block to chassis, and chassis to battery.

    You already have a run from batt - to engine block though, right? You should be all set :good:

    Thanks for the assurance... Yeah, i was surprised at the resistance as well. I forget which cable exactly, but it was bouncing from .01 to .02. Those were the highest readings though...

  11. Fuse Block for 240a S-Series Mechman?

    in MechMan Alternators and 12v Accessories

    Posted

    Appreciate it hdoore... I drive a lot for my job, sometimes 10 hrs at a time. Didn't want anything overheating, catching fire, you get the point. I have it run the shortest possible route I could find. Do you think I should run one more ground from the negative battery to the engine block? I'm not hearing any whining or anything like that, so I think all my grounds are good. Just wanted to lower resistance anywhere I could. After doing resistance testing on alternator, everything was .01 or .00. All should be good I suppose...

  12. Fuse Block for 240a S-Series Mechman?

    in MechMan Alternators and 12v Accessories

    Posted

    Do I, or do I not need a 250 amp fuse from the positive alt to positive battery cable for my 240a S-Series Mechman Alternator? I spoke with Brian last week about it and he told me that I could, if it gave me peace of mind. I don't want to waste my money and time if I can avoid it, but I also want it done correctly.

    I'm confused, as I always see fuse blocks from this wire. Also, other HO Alternator companies do recommend the fuse block on this wire. I don't want to burn up my car or void the warranty, just to get a little more amperage/voltage to my system. Yes, I have run 1/0 wires from the positive alt to battery, alt to negative post on battery, and a 1/0 run from negative post of battery to strut tower bolt that was sanded down to metal (drive a Toyota Camry, best place to ground to frame). So, do I need a 250 amp fuse block on the positive wire? Also, I assume I did the Big 3 upgrade by running the wires as mentioned above. Do I still need to run a 1/0 wire from my negative battery post to my engine block? I assume this was completed as I ran the 1/0 wire from my alternator mounting post to the negative post of my battery. Any suggestions or feedback will be greatly appreciated. I am a noob when it comes to electrical, but not completely green if you know what I mean. I have set up many systems, but none with such an upgraded electrical system that I am about to install. More on batteries later... I want to address alternator first. Thanks!

  13. Possible Problem with Mech 240A

    in MechMan Alternators and 12v Accessories

    Posted

    the part you dont under stand is that you will never see 14.4v out of any alt that is computer controlled no matter how badass it is.. it can be 1 million amps and you will still see it drop to what the computer tells it to charge to. also once the batteries are topped off/fully charged the alt will not charge at a higher voltage.. you need to train your batteries to sit at a higher voltage so the alternator can keep charging at a higher voltage.

    When a battery is near fully charged the alternator will cease to put out sufficient voltage to charge the battery and the reading you will get from the battery probing method will simply be the voltage coming from the battery itself. In this case, you can simply leave your lights on with the car off for ten or fifteen minutes to drain your battery a little bit.

    i seen so many bad battery review because of things like this. i have batteries with bad reviews of them swelling in a few weeks yet i have ran mine for 2 years and no issues. they keep holding voltage and keep holding a good charge.. at the end you choose how you want to run your equipment.. just dont cry to manufactures because equipment fail when they get abused or tricked to doing something it shouldnt..

    I have a 2013 Camry and just installed the 240a SSeries Mechman. I was wondering the same thing about the voltage issue. I assumed it had something to do with the cars computer, so I just said heck with it. Tired of fooling around with it for now. I did change the OEM belt from 50" to 49 3/4" Gates GreenLine. Tried my damndest to get the 49 1/2" belt on, but it just wasn't happening. My car idles better and my fuel economy is coming back up. I can also tell by the sound of my subs as well. The belt helped a ton!

    Now my question for you Miquel is this, I still am running my stock battery up front with no battery in the rear. I'm going to upgrade the battery up front to the largest I can fit under the hood. Should this one battery help my hold my voltage to my two rear amplifiers? Or do I need a second, rear battery hooked up in parallel to hold my voltage. Running right at 2000 RMS at the moment, but want to add more soon. You seem to know what your speaking about. Any advise? I know the alternator is doing what it supposed to be doing. Can't really help the computer issue... Advise?

  14. customer service

    in MechMan Alternators and 12v Accessories

    Posted

    I dont think there is anything wrong with the AVBM, I just think it is not compatible with my car/alternator setup, which is upsetting because that is what I was told to buy. And I'd rather not spend even more money to ship back and forth for no reason. I just want my alternators to work properly, even if that means tossing the AVBM out of the equation.

    Sucks you're having this problem man. I just installed a 240a Mechman and Brian has been spot on with helping me out. I hope you get this resolved soon.

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