dharris2488

Well, I know what my next set of 8's are going to be...

So glad you posted this. I was just telling my wife the 2 weeks ago there was another way to wrap a cord. I used to do it as a kid (stepdad taught me) and then I forgot how to do it. SHO NUFF SMD has it posted on his site. Thanks. I bet this will work wonders for Xmas lights too! Hell yeah!

Thanks for the update. I really want to put 2500 on each one of the Ethos, but to do it at 2ohm the conventional way isn't worth the price tag to me. Rather recone the subs and wire them to 1... The Taramps seem like they are holding up, as long as the vibration issue is properly taken care of... Thanks again

How you liking the Taramps? Thought about buying the HD5000 2ohm to support the 12.5-13v situation I'm facing. I realized that I'm not dropping too much voltage (maybe a full volt at full tilt, as long as my batteries are topped off), which is ok to me and everything else is good to go. The Taramps have me interested, but the only thing holding me back is that I heard they don't like vibration to much. How did you get around this issue? I think by adding one more battery and securing the amp, or protecting it from vibrations, and I would be good to go...

Want to follow... Want to see how you get around this issue. I strapped another Q2200 (4400RMS, plus another 400 mids/highs) and I'm seeing voltage drop to 12volts now. Ready to see your fix so I can do the same or similar with mine. Good luck! Hope you get this resolved soon...

Just want to make sure the regular AVBM, with set screw will work on my Toyota Camry 2013 with a S Series Mechman 240amp alt? This won't fry any of my internal electronics will it? I would LOOOOOVVVVEEEE to actually see above 13.5 volts in my car!!! So frustrating... I'm talking about buying the original AVBM, not this one with the dial and volt meter. Will someone chime in and let me know if it will work? Thanks!

Will you take 80.00/piece for these? VVX-10v1 D2 = 19 PCS - $100 If so, I will take 4... Lemme know, could be a fun build...

Gosh dang it! I've got to drive to New Orleans today and need to leave now. Is there anyway possible you can hold on to (4) IVX-10v1 D2 = 14 PCS - $50, until tonight? I will get a PayPal account setup and get these subs bought tonight. How do you get our shipping info? I need to keep these away from my wife! Hold on to 4 pieces pls. Going to put 4 10's in the Camry... Next build

Flux is some serious stuff... Once I inserted my 1/0 into the closed end filled with molten solder, it was like an instant bond! Bonded so quickly that I couldn't get some of my wires seated all the way down to the end of the terminal. I tried pulling the terminals off as hard as I could pull, and it wasn't going anywhere! They are still good connections and don't seem to be coming loose at all. I noticed no one mentioned to sand the inside of the terminals for a better bond. I always sand out the inside with my Dremmel tool, then add small amount of flux, heat the terminal and fill it up with molten solder, then as quickly as i can keeping safety in mind, jam the wire into the lug. Solid hold withing 2-3 seconds.

Thanks for the assurance... Yeah, i was surprised at the resistance as well. I forget which cable exactly, but it was bouncing from .01 to .02. Those were the highest readings though...

Appreciate it hdoore... I drive a lot for my job, sometimes 10 hrs at a time. Didn't want anything overheating, catching fire, you get the point. I have it run the shortest possible route I could find. Do you think I should run one more ground from the negative battery to the engine block? I'm not hearing any whining or anything like that, so I think all my grounds are good. Just wanted to lower resistance anywhere I could. After doing resistance testing on alternator, everything was .01 or .00. All should be good I suppose...

Do I, or do I not need a 250 amp fuse from the positive alt to positive battery cable for my 240a S-Series Mechman Alternator? I spoke with Brian last week about it and he told me that I could, if it gave me peace of mind. I don't want to waste my money and time if I can avoid it, but I also want it done correctly. I'm confused, as I always see fuse blocks from this wire. Also, other HO Alternator companies do recommend the fuse block on this wire. I don't want to burn up my car or void the warranty, just to get a little more amperage/voltage to my system. Yes, I have run 1/0 wires from the positive alt to battery, alt to negative post on battery, and a 1/0 run from negative post of battery to strut tower bolt that was sanded down to metal (drive a Toyota Camry, best place to ground to frame). So, do I need a 250 amp fuse block on the positive wire? Also, I assume I did the Big 3 upgrade by running the wires as mentioned above. Do I still need to run a 1/0 wire from my negative battery post to my engine block? I assume this was completed as I ran the 1/0 wire from my alternator mounting post to the negative post of my battery. Any suggestions or feedback will be greatly appreciated. I am a noob when it comes to electrical, but not completely green if you know what I mean. I have set up many systems, but none with such an upgraded electrical system that I am about to install. More on batteries later... I want to address alternator first. Thanks!

I have a 2013 Camry and just installed the 240a SSeries Mechman. I was wondering the same thing about the voltage issue. I assumed it had something to do with the cars computer, so I just said heck with it. Tired of fooling around with it for now. I did change the OEM belt from 50" to 49 3/4" Gates GreenLine. Tried my damndest to get the 49 1/2" belt on, but it just wasn't happening. My car idles better and my fuel economy is coming back up. I can also tell by the sound of my subs as well. The belt helped a ton! Now my question for you Miquel is this, I still am running my stock battery up front with no battery in the rear. I'm going to upgrade the battery up front to the largest I can fit under the hood. Should this one battery help my hold my voltage to my two rear amplifiers? Or do I need a second, rear battery hooked up in parallel to hold my voltage. Running right at 2000 RMS at the moment, but want to add more soon. You seem to know what your speaking about. Any advise? I know the alternator is doing what it supposed to be doing. Can't really help the computer issue... Advise?

Sucks you're having this problem man. I just installed a 240a Mechman and Brian has been spot on with helping me out. I hope you get this resolved soon.