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dharris2488

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About dharris2488

  • Rank
    125db
  • Birthday 02/05/1979

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    The Woodlands, TX
  • Interests
    Car Audio, Hunting, Fishing, My Lady, CNC Cutting Tools, and yes, Cooking.

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  1. Wow! That would be exhausting trying to keep up with that lie. Killerman alt's! Epic
  2. I'm no expert on this, but your output curve looks very similar to all the Soundqubed builds I've completed. I've built 4 enclosures for SQ drivers (HDS and HDC's) and only one turned out shitty. It was for two HDC3 10's, and I used 1.5 c/ft per driver at 32hz (slot port) and the curve looked similar to yours. Sounded muffled and horrible. I rebuilt giving the drivers 1.85 c/ft each and raised tuning to 34hz and they bang hard as hell now off my 2200 @ .5ohm. I've noticed that the larger the peak I've been able to give my SQ drivers, the louder and more musical they tend to be, which seems to go against everything I've learned. lol. Also, the more port area I give my SQ subs, the more musical and loud they tend to be. When I rebuilt my shitty enclosure to the one I'm using now, my output spike shot up over +3.5db at 34-35hz on WinISD. On the shitty enclosure, my spike was around +2db at 32hz. Take what you can from this info... I think your good to go though... I assume you will be doing aero's? These subs love their port area from my experience with them. My HDC3 10's now play down to about 27hz before dropping off drastically. They also play up to around 60hz before sounding kind of shitty. I've built two enclosures for my HDS3 12's and the one I liked best was about 2.4 c/ft per at 35hz. I also built one at 2.25 net tuned to 30hz and it sounded good, but my it seriously lacked on the upper end, 50's and up. I think 2.5 net at 33hz for that sub will sound great if you want to reach down into the mid to upper 20's... That just my 2 cents for what it's worth. Good luck! Hope it turns out for ya...
  3. Thank you... I've been pulling my hair out for the last 15 minutes trying to find this program. I like to use this for it's simplicity, as it is about as accurate you are going to get. Then I play around with WINisd to figure out what different Vb's and tuning does to the output. Good little one two combo...
  4. So glad you posted this. I was just telling my wife the 2 weeks ago there was another way to wrap a cord. I used to do it as a kid (stepdad taught me) and then I forgot how to do it. SHO NUFF SMD has it posted on his site. Thanks. I bet this will work wonders for Xmas lights too! Hell yeah!
  5. Me personally, I would try to keep it easy at first. I don't know if you are looking for huge bass or not, but i like the idea of going with a set of quality 10's. You could buy a quality 3K-4K amp (too many brands to list, and don't want to start a pissing match), upgrade the alt, slap a couple batt's somewhere in the back and throw 2 10's in there. I'd be willing to bet the DSS Ethos 10's can handle all of 1500-2K without having a problem. I'm not certain on this, but I believe extensive engineering went into the design of the 10's, as well as the rest of the Ethos line. If my HDC3 10's i'm running currently can handle the same power I was throwing at my DSS Ethos 12's, I feel fairly confident that the 10's can handle the power as well (that is not a slap on SoundQubed at all. I actually love their equipment). Im putting right at 4K on my 10's at the moment. In that little hatch back, it will get loud and low. You may be quite surprised... Keep in mind, this is all just my opinion. I have run the DSS Ethos 12's and multiple HDC and HDS series of subs. This is what I'm basing my opinion off of. IF that doesn't work for you, you can always sell and build the wall. Building a wall is such a commitment, remember that...
  6. I haven't built the box yet. just got the wood yesterday, and waiting on getting my table saw at my house. i havent even heard any SQ subs in person, but im sure i will love them. i will definitely post on here with my build log. here is my current log. nothing special, but will be doing big upgrades soon. ordered sky high wire, and an xs power battery for the trunk. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186822-2006-ford-five-hundred-fi-rockford-kenwood/?hl=%2Bford+%2Bfive+%2Bhundred#entry2784816 Damn, if I only had a table saw! Jealous... Hopefully getting one for Xmas. I have to sit there and lay all my stuff out and then clamp down a metal meter sticks to run my circular down. Takes forever! Sounds like you are headed in the right direction already. Can't wait to see what you think about the subs. I hear people say that the HDC's aren't that musical and sound hollow. I would have to disagree with that statement. I mean they definitely aren't an SQ sub, but I have a feeling that's not what you are truly going after anyway. I would say that 90% of the people that run SQ'ed either like their equipment, or love their equipment. I'm running the HDC310's right now, coming off the DSS Ethos 12's, and I must say the HDC3's sound pretty damn good. Not as loud, but that's to be expected. I can really tell how much cone size really matters, but they still get down for some 10's. Play every note I throw at them. Barely get warm and they are definitely loud. I get asked all the time what brand 12's do I have. Wait till you see people's faces when they see your jamming 10's! Classic...
  7. I run strapped 2200's and love them... Just save up another hundo and buy a quality amp. HiFonics may give you power, but so so so not efficient. I can smell burning coils already!
  8. Have the same tweets, but haven't installed yet. Curious...
  9. How did this turn out? You build it? Just curious... Just finished my HDC310 build and liking it for the most part.
  10. I don't run one on my Mechman. I called them to ask about this and they told me the decision was up to me. If it made me sleep better, then do it. Otherwise, no big deal. As others have mentioned, I have 300 amp fuses on my 2 runs of + to back batteries, then fuses off my batts to amplifiers (4 in total for sub system). This is kind of off topic, but anyway... Make sure to ground the alt casing to negative post if running a Mechman though. They REALLY stressed that to me, just FYI...
  11. I drive a 2013 Camry and experience this issue as well. Welcome to Japanese cars. Regulated voltage BS. I have a Mechman 240amp and in the winter when I start my vehicle up, I will see 14.4 on occasion. In the summer here in Houston, my typical idle voltage is 13.4. Rev engine and can get to 13.7. Drive on freeway 70mph and I run around 13.9. My voltage bounces around everywhere, so what you're experiencing isn't uncommon. You should really try to buy another belt that is a 1/16" smaller than your factory belt, as the MechMan pulley is smaller and you could be experiencing belt slip as well. Do you see any black powdery residue on and around the housing of the alt? Also, others may disagree with this statement but the way I see it is like this. I average 13.6v on a typical day. If I start seeing my voltage drop to 12.0v full tilt, then it's time to start charging my batt's. If you voltage starts hitting mid 11's, time to start throwing more batt's at it and stabilize your voltage a little more. I really try to stay above 12.2v on LOOONG bass drops. If I go below, then I do what I listed above. Honestly, I wouldn't worry about it too much, as you really can't hear the difference in 1 volt. Now, if you're metering, it may mean a few tenths. I would make sure you have a decent battery bank to support the regulated voltage and keep that bank charged. Also, check your belt. If you can get a tighter belt on it, do it. It's a cheap fix... Good luck man...
  12. I have a 10amp Schumacher Speed Charge (spelling?) that works great for me. Microprocessor and different settings. Works well. I run (3) Advanced Auto H6 Platinum AGM's and they are resting at 12.7-12.8. I also have a 240amp Mechman as well. Got mine on sale for less than 50.00...
  13. Joe X sent me a design for my HDS312's and it came out great... It'll sound good as long as you build it to spec. All on you Good luck!
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