shizzzon

oh, i forgot to say that weight restrictions are in play too... that's why i chose not to do 3 lvl5s I dont want to excel over the limit of the car which is 865lbs. I got about 500lbs without anybody in it. I'll post pics of it tomorrow for ya. You will see that the further back you go in my car, the more narrow it gets.. The height decreases and the width decreases... I think the height decreases down to about 23" and the width to no more than 36" wide... I'll be relining the car in 2x4s after i tear this wall down but i gotta do lots more than that. I'm not allowed to modify anything in front of the B pillar so it's gonna be a challenge.

I have a dilemma so i'l post what i have now so i can work off that. I built a wall in my car so i could learn from it. I currently run 3 Level4 15s off of 21,000w(yes, the stock level4s) but i cant seem to break a 153. I blame it partly on the wall design and prob more on the car itself as it's not all that braced around the wall. I still only have stock alt, 2 batts and some major power compression. Goal is to break a 160 by the end of the year. I will be getting an upgraded alt sometime soon and some 16v batts but i need the right choice of subs to go with- When i go to 18v, i will be able to play with more power! My choices are- 3 Level4XL 15s @39,000w 2 Level5 18s @26,000w It may look apparent as to which direction i should go but my car is small for a wall so i have space restrictions. Volume-wise, i only have about 14cubes NET to play with. Baffle size averages to - 52" wide x 25" high. I can get a lot more port area with 2 18s but a lot more power with 3 15s... I was hopin someone that has experience with both subs to give me some competitive info about them... maybe the A-Team? thanks.

actually, we had it at around 0.8 ohms. His 0.5 was probably around 0.35ohms. You lucky it even showed a blue light, hehe. We got a couple of tones to burp out at 0.8 ohms but some others went into protect with moderate power output. Surprising though, the amp never reached a warm state.. The low load protection is very strict which can be good because it will go into protect without a thermal problem at all.

i think what people dont see is this and correct me if i'm wrong about this- When using the VCM, if your current charging system's voltage fluctuates some when a small load is put on it, the VCM may keep the voltage steady, but the current output will fluctuate to compensate, correct? If this weren't true, then the alternator would be forced to put out more power than it could do prior to installation of a VCM so i'm pretty sure that's correct. Steady voltage should be better than steady current anyhow so i still see this device worth having. Also, correct me if i'm wrong too but if a stock alternator's regulator's set point is 14.4v or lower and a user set's his voltage via VCM to 14.9v, won't the alternator's output rating drop some to compensate? IE - 100A alt @14.4v Current out @14.9v = 96.6A 100A alt @ 14.1v Current out @14.9v = 94.6A Not a big difference at all. However, if the alternator were rated at 14.9v and the VCM was set lower, i do not believe the current out would rise, correct?