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Everything posted by shizzzon

  1. You posted literally just in time! Our last piece of hardware arrrived today! Let me build the retail packaging for shipping and then I will take pictures of it and post them here along with what it is. This will more than likely be tomorrow but it is here completely and ready for sale once we post here what it is!
  2. Starting sometime next month in August, SPL-Lab products purchased through a dealer will be packaged in new full retail form along with extra accessories depending on which product is purchased. This is to support our dealers. Also, SPL-Lab NEW product scheduled for release next month as well and no, it's not the Race Meter. We've already featured that product, :) New developments in AJK Sound is beginning and we will have all new products from them some soon after and our other buildhouse JFA is working on our new DSP revisions for 2018 soon to be released. New Taramp's shipment was delivered recently. Many Bass 30ks, Bass 15ks and MD8000s going out soon again.
  3. The Mini Bass Meter is designed specifically to let you know your pressure level while in the driver's seat. That is all (besides frequency and DC Voltage). It is not designed to help you get louder and use to compete with as these devices require software or firmware to operate. All SPL Meters we manufacturer above the Mini Bass Meter can read up to 180db or higher so the limit on those are of no concern. It all depends on how you want to control it- USB Bass Meter- PC or Android (capable but not always compatible) LCD Bass Meter SE- Portable or PC (Hold a handheld device to read measurements) Wireless Bass Meter- Android, iOS or PC (Purchase mobile app and use Phone or PC to read measurements. Also can be used as wired device when battery dies) Next-USB with SPL- PC use only (allows up to 4 sensors at once and additional compatible sensors such as High-SPL RTA and multi level power clamping) Next-LCD with SPL- Portable or PC (allows up to 2 sensors at once and additional compatible sensors such as High-SPL RTA and multi level power clamping) Some users like to install tablet in their vehicle so they can always see the full measurement information from their device. Some like to use just the Mini Bass Meter and connect portable power pack to it so they can measure anyone's score live when getting a demo as long as it's below 160.0dB. It's small and concealed. Some users like to use the wired devices as they only test in an area that has full access to a PC. Some users run shows and test themselves at the same time so they use the portable devices so they can walk into customer's vehicles to test very quick or connect to a PC for a more serious tuning session.
  4. We will use this thread to add Refurbished and Used SPL-Lab products for sale here. Currently, we have 1 USB Bass Meter for sale. Lightly used- $235 shipped http://spllabusa.com/us/products/bass-meters/usb-bass-meter.html
  5. We will be shut down on the following dates so orders can still be submitted to us directly but will not be filled until after we resume operations- April 14 - April 22, 2018 May 26 - May 28, 2018 August 22 - September 3, 2018 The following brands will be shut down through us during our vacation- SPL-Lab Eros Alto Falantes Fanatics Bass Audio Taramp's Electronics JFA Eletronicos AJK Sound VE Audio Alphard Sound Technology
  6. We currently have a sale right now in the US of the following- $60 off LCD Meter SE with SPL sensor $70 off Next USB with SPL sensor $100 off Next LCD with SPL sensor
  7. And we are here as well. Your North American primary Importer/Distributor/Tech Support/Warranty Service provider- SPL-Lab USA Distribution
  8. Passively setting gain doesn't do anything in respect to safety or maximum clean output from dynamic material (music). Use the provided LED Monitor and ensure the amplifier is not playing into clipping as that's exactly what it's intended purpose is.
  9. I'm not trying to be an ass but i have a view point that seems so legit, either i'm lost or everyone else is. Again, there is RMS and Dynamic. I was told to view the manual.. Just so happens, the manual even says Dynamic Power, not dynamic rms (which i've never heard of before). Dynamic power is not rms. Now, for the sake of argument, lets just say it's worded wrong.. According to the manual, it's still reading a clean burst rating. Assuming that information is correct, clean that is, the MAIN point goes back to the measure of that specification in the first place. The Certified AND Uncertified ratings CAN BE obtained in the real world in a vehicle. It's up to the user to sustain the adequate electrical system if they want to see that potential. But, the dynamic specification will not be seen. As a matter of fact, i'm almost willing to bet(i don't gamble, sorry) that an ammeter set to peak hold would not even pick up dynamic bursts on tones or music because the incredible cycle speed you may need(if the AD-1 is much faster). So, you see my argument mainly lies in the usefulness of the measurement. It can easily be done to obtain cert and uncert ratings even on music with the right equipment. But these burst ratings, I see many people thriving over those numbers- IE a 5k did almost 10kw, woohoo! That is not a fair statement to ever make even if the test is correct. I can say an amp rated for 8krms did 95kw dynamically.. Everybody go buy that amp.. Then everybody go purchase a 12kwrms amp that dynamically bursted to 15kw. The 12krms amp wins hands down everytime in terms of getting more power for your install. I do not wish people look at this spec to dictate the relationship of price to performance ratio a particular amp is shown to be doing on this device dynamically. It's misleading to those who do not understand they will never hear this potential. Analogy- Just like audio companies rating their amps at 10 and 30% THD for their power ratings just so they can look like they made an amp that is of equal performance to other competitor brands who advertise the same power amp at only 1% THD or less. Without knowing what THD even means in this example.. it would greatly mislead people causing them to save money and purchase the 10 or 30% rated THD amp because it's obviously cheaper in price because of that fact. I hope someone sees my point here. It's not the fault of the device, it's the fault of those who do not understand not to take that measurement into account for comparing to anything else even if the cert and uncert ratings were identical but the dynamic was 50% more on one amp vs another of equal power.
  10. You are 100% right. And Dynamic RMS.. I've heard it all now. Even if an amp puts out more power "dynamically" that is even measurable compared to constant output, it wouldn't matter to anyone.. 1- The cycle algorithm for SPL Meters are not effected by dynamic bursts so the potential output power dynamically is of no importance. 2- For continuous output, dynamic peaks in the output will not be audible to the rest of the frequency range that would currently be in use. So, we can actually say it is like peak because if it does not help in competition nor for music, then people will only benefit from that specification as much as people benefit from peak ratings.
  11. I have 1 pair of Crescendo FT1 tweeters ran off of a little $45 Lanzar amp. I sat a good buddy of mine in my vehicle for 2.5hrs doing demos and after that, he was complaining about the highs being a little too excessive for Loud music... So, i popped the back and measured power output to these tweeters. I didn't measure current, just voltage. At max AC voltage, it was putting out 0.7v on a test tone! that means that what we were hearing wasn't even 1 watt per tweeter yet. I'd say if you know what you are doing(and i re-tweaked the line driver to an ungodly output), 1 pair of these tweeters is ridiculously plenty. I have 1,700w of front stage, 200w for tweeters, 1,500w for midrange. It keeps up fine on 4 18s on 22kw.
  12. Don't you mean Xmech? It's somewhat hard to gauge the Xmax of something by ear. Possible but not exact. Plus with 7kw... everything is just loud
  13. I'm in MECA, it's a lot more competitive when your pressure class is based upon quantity and size of cone area AND fuse size to fit a certain class. I am in a fused class, therefore with the cone area i use, i use 4 80A fuses. 4 fuses is the limit in my class as well. These fuses can withstand about 4x their rated rating for a good second, long enough to get my score posted.
  14. yea i know, i'm kickin myself in the ass everyday comparin me to others... just watchin others pass me by, lol. I'm optimistic... there is always a different design to do\try. Designs aren't real expensive, equipment is, and i've got most of it taken care of so it's down hill from here. I've got til October to bring out the best of what i can too and i will take A Team's advice and go from there. I do remember running 4 of my 3500s at 0.5ohm produced more power than 6 at 1 ohm without screwin with my score so it sounds like a good choice to go with.
  15. sounds interesting. I'm limited by fusing, i dont think anybody here knows that, especially since i never mentioned it, lol. I'm lucky i pull so little, honestly. I can only run 350A worth of fusing. I have pulled 1100A before and was long enough to get a score posted up on the t-lab. Efficiency is key in my league. I made my own fuse block that can hold fusing for a good 2-3 full seconds at ~900A draw on 320A of fusing before they pop so plenty of time for a score. I believe i can stack 2 12s on top of each other in my car. That will give me ~ 550sqin of port to play with. funny thing is if i went with 2 18s, i'd have less port area to use. 3 15s would be even less... I plan on doin 16v as well since it helps efficiency-wise. The reason why i pull so little current is because my coils on my 15s are dual 1.0s at DC. So.. after rise, they rise to over 3.0 ohms per coil so the amps aren't really doin much. It's good too though because the higher the impedance, the more efficient the amps are.
  16. a 60 at least? nah, lol, only 1 person has ever broke a 160 in my class, it's not easy. that's why i want to make it my goal. I used to have 4 subs in the wall, i already took one out... I actually did a 153.4 with 4 15s in there, i cant even break a 153 now with 3.... It's killin me.
  17. yes, your right! that goes along with the weight issue too. I tend to use XS Power batts for there good quick discharge capability. I dont know what the voltage drop is but my batts(even though it's just stock and 2 xs's) remain at 100% charged after a show so i can't charge them, lol unless i beat on it for a while. I also only use stock alternator. I'm working with DC Power on that but besides that- Yes, poor electrical and poor sub choice for amps being used right now = power compression... I'm sure i could boast just over a 154 right now with a stout electrical system... BUT... i like challenges When i go 16v.. i'm only gonna use 3 D1600s. I pull 878A of current on a burp just fyi.
  18. it's just ductwork tape to help smooth the enclosure. I didnt want to use resin because the wall is gonna get tore down soon in a couple months. And no.. unfortunately that didnt help either, lol. didn't hurt though...
  19. I drive a Scion tC. I dont care about the car dragging, i care about it snapping. I drive this car on 200-400 mile trips almost weekly to shows... so stressing it's suspension is not an option. Unless IA wants to put me on their team... I'm currently on DC's team right now.
  20. i know what i'm bout to say is gonna suck because i cant have the best of both worlds unless there is some material out there i am not thinking of... I would love to do that, man. The onyl thign that's holding me back is a $3,000 Air Ride kit to prevent the axle from snapping with that much weight. I'm trying to work around the weight issue. If weight wasnt an issue.. then there would be no problems like that. For me to drop 240lbs of subs in the car on top of amps n batts.. the wall PLUS massive bracing would have to weigh.. well nothing virtually... In reality- the wall and bracing would have to weigh no more than 100lbs total.. That's impractical in my eyes to yield such a high pressure... I'm not willing to drop air ride yet, if ever, as now is not the time.
  21. ok here are pics of it- There is expanding foam that sealed all the way around it. The wall was built behind the B pillar because at the time, i didnt know what part of the B pillar was too far forward(i know now). The allthread u see in the port would be removed in the next wall build i do. Probably no internal bracing at all. That wall is triple baffled and single layered all the way around. Reinforced with 4 runs of 3\4" allthread. After multiple burps, the back wall just recently cracked and bubbled up a little so it isn't too much longer before i gotta tear it down. With me having 21kw at 12v and 39kw at 18v, there should be no reason i can't break a 153... It's a major lack of design efficiency i already know. This is what i planned on doing and anybody can fill me in from here- After i tear this sucker out since it was just to learn off of, i want to take 2x4s and line them all the way around the inside of the car from the b pillar on back. The back hatch area i'll use as cargo room for my amps n batteries. After i line all the 2x4s, i gotta find a way to anchor them to the car or weld a frame around them and anchor that to the car so possibility of flexing is minimal to zero. I would then use sheets of mdf, hardwood or whatever to build the enclosure from within. Once the design is built, i would lay down small steel sheets inside of the walls bolted through the 2x4s on the outside so the box can't flex inwards. I hate to use bolts though because they will cause turbulence inside the box I will say this though- Before i do all this, after i tear it down, i'll go ahead and do the 2x4 lining, but i'm only gonna be testing with 1 sub at a time, NO WALL, until i can't get any louder... then i'll rebuild a wall as best as i know how. In my class, i CANNOT modify anything past the B pillar(anything in front of the door jam). I can lay a single sheet of 3\4" wood under the sunroof but that's it. I can do literally anything behind the B pillar but within weight reasoning... I'm limirted to just under 900lbs and i already have 85lbs of sound deadening in the car and 122lbs of amps.
  22. man, i cant even stack 2 15s on top of each other, let alone 2 18s!
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