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aculous

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Posts posted by aculous

  1. The IS-F may run mid 12s in perfect conditions and great air, but they're running high 12s, low 13s more times than not. Anytime you see a listed 1/4 mile time for a car that's on a track with good prep, good temp, good da, and an experienced driver.

    You see it all the time at the track when guys bring their stock cars expecting to run a time they saw on the Internet only to feel down afterwards. When they don't take all the variables into play.

    Stock naturally aspirated cars are affected by weather conditions more than the modded or forced induction ones.

    actually mid 12's are pretty standard STOCK and 13's are standard when the driver messes up (or doesn't have much experience). I would probably do 13's with my 300lb system, my 235lb body and my lack of experience. It don't need perfect conditions just needs a driver that knows when to take off and when to shift. Mid 11's are more rare but like i said, headers and a shot of NOS and it isn't so rare any more.

    bet tires would get you a bit more. Slicks and cool day do wonders.

    i would rather not have slicks on my daily driver. But i have 285's so there is a lot more meat than people think.

    Understood, I am in the process of getting a separate rear rim set and slicks for test and tune days.

    Definitely should do a basshead meet up at the track. I would drive my ass to texas for that! Its a great time, but only if you can get a bunch of runs in.

  2. The IS-F may run mid 12s in perfect conditions and great air, but they're running high 12s, low 13s more times than not. Anytime you see a listed 1/4 mile time for a car that's on a track with good prep, good temp, good da, and an experienced driver.

    You see it all the time at the track when guys bring their stock cars expecting to run a time they saw on the Internet only to feel down afterwards. When they don't take all the variables into play.

    Stock naturally aspirated cars are affected by weather conditions more than the modded or forced induction ones.

    actually mid 12's are pretty standard STOCK and 13's are standard when the driver messes up (or doesn't have much experience). I would probably do 13's with my 300lb system, my 235lb body and my lack of experience. It don't need perfect conditions just needs a driver that knows when to take off and when to shift. Mid 11's are more rare but like i said, headers and a shot of NOS and it isn't so rare any more.

    bet tires would get you a bit more. Slicks and cool day do wonders.

  3. The IS-F may run mid 12s in perfect conditions and great air, but they're running high 12s, low 13s more times than not. Anytime you see a listed 1/4 mile time for a car that's on a track with good prep, good temp, good da, and an experienced driver.

    You see it all the time at the track when guys bring their stock cars expecting to run a time they saw on the Internet only to feel down afterwards. When they don't take all the variables into play.

    Stock naturally aspirated cars are affected by weather conditions more than the modded or forced induction ones.

    meh. Most cars need a trans worth a shit and a tune and they would be fine.

    finding out a quarter mile time took me one truck scale and a horsepower rating to find out....which I took 25% off of the horsepower rating cuz it has 116K on the motor. Was real easy to find out how fast I would go. People need to quit bench racing.

  4. If you can hear the difference in the technology richard clark has a grand for you

    It's actually $10,000 but since nobody has ever passed it, I think the money is safe. But hey, maybe jrlutor's ears are better than the thousands of audio professionals that have failed the test!

    So dude earlier sounded like he was talking about class d vs DE. Which really is a topology conversation right? The only way a amp is going to "color" the sound is in distortion figures right?

    The only two amps where you can hear a noticeable difference I have found is SET tube vs solid state. And that is debatable too.

  5. Just as a follow-up in case people are looking for it. Found the specs on web.archive.org or waybackmachine.

    Stereo Integrity 15" Home Theater sub D2 (believe the D4 would be extremely similar)

    Stereo Integrity HT 15" D2 Subwoofer

    Re: 3.7 Ohms
    Fs: 18.5 Hz
    Qes: 0.37
    Qms: 6.3
    Qts: 0.35
    Le: 3.5 mH
    Sd: 80445 mm^2
    Vas: 220 l
    BL: 18.9
    Mms: 309 g
    Cms: 239
    Sensitivity (1W/1M): 87.4 dB
    Xmax: 22.5mm

    Recommended enclosures: 15"
    Sealed = 3 ft^3
    Ported = 5 ft^3 tuned to 22 Hz
    Cutout: 14.0"
    OD: 15.5"
    Mounting depth: 8"
    Mounting flange to top of surround: 1.5"
    Displacement: 0.19 ft^3

  6. So I bought a ST 15" HT sub a little while ago. Well they changed up their site and now I can't find the T/S parameters, emailed Stereo Integrity and haven't heard anything back. (gonna call them during work hours but I am usually not able to do that...I work long hours)

    But it says it was shipped from the Sundown Audio store via paypal. Wondering if you guys actually sells those subs? or build them for ST and could give me some info?

    Its a long shot but I thought I would throw it out there just in case.

  7. I know you said it was the toll tag and stuff but thing to remember that saved me a lot of money and time if you do anymore installs in the future.

    Sound deadner = add mass

    closed cell foam = quells rattles

    20%-50% coverage of deadner should do you, I would use more like 20-30% depending on location like inner door skin, cover it in closed cell foam to cut down the rattles.

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