aculous

I don't even see that ST gives Vd ratings though? My JBL 2235Hs (pinky up) have a Vd of 46in3 with a 8.5mm xmax....Also it looks like the BL efficiency is not expressed by most manufacturers. Which matters I would guess. BL usually in the 70-80% range? trying to calculate Vd seems simple...Vd = Sd * xmax but it seems manufacturers want to make it more complicated...like ST for example expressing Sd in in2 and xmax in mm...I hate T/S parameters sometimes.

So I have been in a do loop selling cars/trucks for the last 5-7 years usually right after I buy the audio I want for them. But I have finally said fuckit and like my truck and staying with it. So its time for some audio. I want to run at least two 15s. I want to put them in a ported box and take out the jump seat in the back so I will still have two seats back there which gives me at least 6 cu. ft to work with, if not more. I am not married to any one idea so I need some help. Most I have ever setup was in my old truck I had a shitty 15 and a JL audio 10w6v2. Actual

I buy mine from a AV guy off ebay. They are nice but kinda stiff, basically they use nice belden cable with canare connectors or RG6 cable with a fancy connector and then terminate as RCA. Bluejeans cable does the same thing and sells them for 300$ for 25ft....I bought my 25ft cables for like 40$ and they are great. Rockford are fine too, or most reputable companies, a lot of them are just too thin of wire hence whatever resistance issues you may see. also you can make your own really easy, I am just lazy. I think the ebay handle is cabebuyer but a ton of people do thi

Lol I was just posting this. My bad appreciate the help as always! (one of these days I'll grab a IMG-SG and some new leads)

Nm my fault, I just saw Meade talking about it being on the wccaraudio site. Just in case anyone else sees this and was wondering WCCaraudio downloads (for DD-1/CC-1 and others)

Hey I went to the site and grabbed the user manual for my DD-1, I have what I need user manual wise for the CC-1 but I wasn't able to download the test tracks because of the website they are hosted with was "having difficulties or the location changed" Can you shoot me a location where I can download both discs for the DD-1 and CC-1 and the demo track? Also are the tracks for the DD-1+ and CC-1+ the same? possibly just grab tracks from their listings too? (I have serial numbers too if that would help for my DD-1 and CC-1)

Couldn't tell you. I started looking at savard a couple weeks ago, actually because of a BigDwiz video. Maybe see what he thinks?

Pioneer 80prs or Kenwood excelon like White Lightening said for a head unit. Linear Power, audiocontrol, zapco or the B2 reference amps look good A good set of components from companies that you may have heard a set before. Start with a 2-way passive and then work to active with the 80prs or amp crossovers when you get bored. Arc Audio, Focal come to mind, precision power has one or two component sets that I like. Only messed with TJs but uh audio was not of prime concern. They have idiotic speaker placement factory. Looks like with the JK it didn't get much better so

the Savard Hi-Q 8's are worth a look. SB Acoustics have some nice offerings for 8"s from Madisound, Also Scanspeak has a nice driver too but its pricey (technically they call it a 9"driver). Ciare has some offerings too that would work and apparently are good to 30hz Tang Band W8-740P 8" Subwoofer Theres a bunch. Not sure what F3 you are going for or what you consider low. 8" is a little tougher for drivers that dig low. If low is 35+ theres bunch anything much lower than that and the numbers thin out a bit.

I am. No worries just asking the question because things have come a long way since I first seriously started looking at maxwell caps back 4 years ago even though I still think the charge controller is the most important part. Yea, I was just looking at things that could get me more voltage that would not include a seperate alt and totally separate 16v path.

That makes more sense, I was thinking a smaller battery but I think I can convince him to go with a XP3000 and do a legit big 3. Thats why I asked in the first place since there isn't a ton of info kicking around about what farad level begins to make a difference and I would bet is more dependent on your equipment draw then anything. Also I was looking at the dc/dc converters too but all of them came out to more money then just more or bigger batteries.

was going off in-rush current for amperage draw of the amp. Caps would be to stabilize voltage not for charge/recharge. I was planning on upgrading his wiring setup anyway since its a unibody car and it seems like they have been glued together since like 2000. Also the main power wire is 4 gauge which would be fine if it wasn't in the back of the car. I was planning on just doing a seperate run to the back of the car and isolating it.

First off. Buddy has a 2017 Buick Lacrosse with a 155 amp alt that he wants to run a 1500-2000 watt system off of. I am recommending upgrading the electrical. First recommendation is a bigger alt and two D3400s so he is more than good to go as well as associated 1/0 wiring and such. Of course he balks at that. So I am trying to figure out a couple other ideas. Main concern is that most cars run so much electrical I am guessing 155 amps is not A) what it runs when its a hot day and B ) not enough to run EXTRA audio equipment. Current draw is about 275 amps for 1ohm @ 2000 watts. Also I feel dum

You could model it to figure that out. You build the box for the subs you are running usually not the other way around. But Gately's stuff is super nice so I get it. I would see what other people have run in that enclosure or maybe give them a call. I would bet they would be able to give you recommendations for using their product. I think meade demo'ed some B2s in that type of box.