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Posts posted by jizazz12
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was wondering if i have enough room on the front of my box for a square type port, the box is going to be 17h X 36w on the front and 27 deep on the top and 18.75 deep on the bottom. total volume after sub displacement is 7.14 cubes looking to tune to 33 or 34, thought if i had enough room on the front of the box i could just do a square type port in the middle of the subs firing to the rear of the trunk. just not sure how to figure out what size the port should be. thought that ma by one of you guys with a little more know how in this department could point me in the rite direction.
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ive had great results in a caddy firing port and subs back with 6x9s removed, 1/2 rear deck cutout out and the armrest cutout
physically putting ports thru the rear deck is best when firing the subs forward... not when the subs are still contained in the trunk, this usually sounds bad because not all the sound is produced by the port... so u will miss out on some/cause cancellation when u dont have both the speaker wave and port wave interacting
the idea behind firing it back is that it gives more distance between you and the speaker for the sound waves to form... some being 30ft+ long u "hear" them more the more time u give them to expand... this principal is used for the loudest drive-by spl guys... they want their waves to expand 6ft outside of the car... but we want as many waves in our car as possible
so being that the seats don't fold down firing into the back seat wouldn't work with the ports thru the deck? i'm sure a slot port would fit on the face of the box i'm building but i have never done one myself. not enough room on the face of the box for the aeros to keep it all in the trunk firing the same direction. what would you suggest? just looking to get the most out of my subs, i had them in my sonata subs up ports up and it sounded good,but i think they can def get louder .
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thank's for your impute, i know that when your doing a system in the trunk firing it to the rear seems to have better results. just wasn't sure with porting thru the rear deck.i guess i will try and see,
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so you think it would sound better firing into the seats?
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so i have decided to go ahead and port thrue my rear deck, i have an 07 impala i'm using six four inch psp aero ports. seats don't fold down so i was planning on firing subs to the rear of the car, so subs back ports thrue the deck. will this be o.k. or should i fire into the back seat?
subs are dc lvl 4 15's with duel .7 lvl 5 coils, planning on running these on 2500 or 3000 rms havn't decided on an amp yet. box is going to be right around 6.75 cubes after displacement. any advice would be appreciated
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looks good man, tight work.
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looking good man, good job.
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get your alarm first man, it's better to know that what ever your putting in there is safe.
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Big 3 helps, if you have a drop it charges faster because more current can fun through bigger wire unlike small wire. To me optima is not crap I've seen some big names use optima batts, XS power has good reviews for there batts. Just upgrade big 3 with at least 0 awg, check out knuconceptz site for wire they have cheap prices on good wire. If you decide to go with a high-output alt, there are lots to choose from, I currently got a h,o alt, and big 3 done, and im running 3k daily and if im really pushing the music hard idle it can drop into the 12's, but driving with my listening levels it stays 14.5 - 15.0.
this^ try the big three first and if your still having problems look into a ho alt, as far as batteries go that all depends on what your pockets can afford.i have used optimas in the past and have never had a problem,are there better batteries out there yes do you need one of the better batts thats for you to decide,but if you have an optima now and it's working fine i see no reason to replace it thats money you can spend on something else you need. just my two sense.
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check the specs on that ap3000d if i'm not mistaken that amp is only rated at 2 ohms.
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About 1300 Watts, with 2 Amplifers. I already have an Optima, Im going to look into the Big 3....does this noticeably help?
without a doubt , i had a yellow top along with a kinetic hc800,big three running 2500 on stock electrical and never had a problem. if i really got on the volume i would see some drop but on average all was good.
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doing the big three upgrade will def help you out,if you look in the electrical section you will find many threads and how too's on how to do this.what you need to do is add a run of either 4 gauge or better yet 0/1 wire from your batt to your alt and also from batt to your grounding point or chasey and that should help out a lot.
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1000 watts shouldn't be asking to much of your stock alt, have you done the big three? how many amps is your stock alt?
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any new word on testing or presale pricing?
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lvl3's would work well with that amp, but if you want to give yourself some room to add a little more power later go with the lvl4's.. they are both great subs.
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i have done both and to me the two 15's is def the way to go.
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i second that,i have never had any issues with darvex infact quite the opisit, customer service was good and everything got to me as stated.
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what's the coil configuration on the sub's?
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there good amps,i like mine. I'm running two 1000/1's, just ready to move on to something bigger.
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if you have the slash v1 or v2 it's not going to make a differance how you wire it,those amps will give you rated power at 1,2,or 4 ohm. rips technolgy will allow the amp to see full power at all loads.
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cool stuff man,looking forward to the new look.
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knukonceptz.com best pricing around .
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not using a slot port I'm using areos, but i have hered that port to the drivers side sounds good.are you firing your box to the rear or behind your back seat?
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congrats steve, very nice.