jizazz12

I'm building a box for these using 4" pvc for ports, I was hoping someone could look my calculations over and let me know if I need to make any adjustments. Subs- LVL 3 MI 15's Amp - Soundstream trx 2K Box - 16"H×40"Wx23"D gross 6.95 CU. Gross Ports - 4 ×4" ×10.5" long 527.52 sq.in (regular pvc) Total net after subs and port 6.31CU. This before any bracing. This going into a 01 yukon xl, all help is appreciated.

My thank's to you sir.

Just putting together a box design for a new build that's going in my truck and wanted to see if this sounds about rite. The box is for four 15" xlm2's box is 18"h x 49.5"w X 38"d total volume is 16.73 cf. i'm using six 6" aero's flared length is 26.5" for a 33 htz. tuning. Truck is 01 Yukon xl going to do subs up ports back power is going to be a pair of 5k's subs are dual 1"s, i'm going to double wall all sides using birch net volume after displacement is 14.18 cf. this is before bracing, not going for numbers this is going to be a daily. If this doesn't look rite for any reason please chime in any and all advice is appreciated, thank's in advance.

5k and 7.5k shipped to 33024 please.

Will do, i picked up the m1's over the weekend and i'm going to recone them to .7 in the meantime i'm going to get this box going. also going to be redoing the amp rack and batt's so i will defiantly post up some picks as soon as i start making some saw dust.

I'm good on the mid bass I've got a pair of 8" crescendo mp-8's and tweeter in both my front doors.

33 should be perfect, im running 2 m1 xls on about the same power, 6.5 cubes with 2 6in aeros tuned to 31hz, plays down to about 25hz with authority, but i do loose some upper bass notes. What size subs are you running? And how big are the flares on those 6" aeros? Maby i could squeeze three of those in the rear deck I would probably have to bend them.

The lvl 4's sound great and get low with the aeros, the box i have in there now is tuned to 32.5 but i could only get 4 of the aeros in the deck because of the flares i wanted to do 5 but they just wouldn't fit. I figure i would look into the slot port and see if i could get more port area this way figure it would be worth looking into.

Thank's for chiming in Kranny, so i could just plug my numbers into the calc and hit 0 for common port walls and should be good as far as ware i place the port on the top of the box? and in your opinion what do you suggest tuning these to i was thinking 33HZ it's a daily ?

porting the rear deck of my Impala, subs will be firing into the cabbin . Subs are two 15" xl m1's on a Crescendo 3kwp. My question is since the port won't be connected to any walls of the box can i still use the calc to figure out the port area? In other words what i'm asking is when your doing a standard slot port your normally using the side wall or the top and bottom of the box as part of your port, what i'm wanting to do is come thru the top center of the box with a partially external port thru my rear deck and i wasn't sure how to figure this out with the calc. I currently have two LVL4 15's firing into the cabin with 4 4" aeros in the rear deck but i'm thinking i could get a little more port with a square/slot port than the aeros due to the flares. Any help with this would be greatly apprciated, and if the square/slot port isn't going to get much more than what i have now than i'll just stick with what i know.

Thank's .

I just picked up a pair of 15" m1 LVL 4 XL's and i'm going to be ordering recones for them, my question is there a difference in the m2 series soft parts or is it just the motor and basket and would m2 soft parts work in a m1 motor? If the m2 soft parts would work in the m1's should i get those or just stick with the m1 recones just curious.

Looking good looking forward to seeing them when there done.

I think you will, there are a lot for sale now just keep checking the for sale section on the forums.

Looks great and congrats on the numbers.

What Brand 4 gauge are you using? and is it truly 4 gauge cable ? Are you running another amp with this? If so how big? Usually 4 gauge would be o.k but personally i like to use 0/1 for anything over 1k, you said your lights were dimming how does your electrical look? I never ran Memphis amps but heard they were power hungry amplifiers there are a lot of things to consider. Start as suggested earlier and grab a DMM check all connections for voltage and make sure all are solid if that checks out start trouble shooting, start at the batt. and work your way back. It sounds to me like you may have a loose connection inside the amp on the speaker outputs, don't think your fuse is the problem.

very nice, that thing is a little giant...lol.

Can't go wrong either way comes down to preference, do you have anyone near you that has these subs? if so you could listen to both and make your choice.

Looking good as always man.

I'll take two......

The way it was explained to me is that when the MLA is installed on newer vehicles it's wired directly inline with the PCU and tells the PCU that it's o.k to allow the alt to charge at a higher voltage. I was told that the newer G.M.'s and some of the other cars and trucks (don't remember which ones exactly) come with a stock alternator that will not charge above 13.9 volts no matter what you do to it and that the PCU is factory set to charge at this voltage, so in my case i have a after market alt that the MLA will work with and when wired into the PCU they work together as one and the MLA adjusts the factory set charge point from 13.9 to 15 or 15.5 whatever the chip in the MLA is set to. I spoke With the guys over at MLA for about 20 min. and they were very informative as far as how everything works together, I'm going to be ordering mine when i get paid next week, if it's going to help get my electrical rite and help my system run better and last a little longer i'm all for it.

For the most part my charging issues have been resolved, i had one battery that needed to be charged and i added two deka 31's to my bank in the trunk. I do have two runs of 0/1 runs to the back one + and one -, battery in the front is grounded to the strut tower and rear bank is grounded to the frame. I haven't grounded my alt yet but with all the mixed info i'm getting i plan to after all what could it hurt, I also put a new alt belt on seems like the old one had a little play in it voltage is holding good so far no more problems. I had spoke to the guys over at missing link when i bought my alt a while back and they didn't have a modual for my car yet and since no one talks much about them anymore i tried xs for a vcm they didn't have anything for me either, i did call them back and found out that they now make one for me and am going to be ordering it next week.

Are you planning on porting the box or going sealed? If you are going to port the box why not port through the arm rest? I have my subs firing into my back seat and my back seats don't fold down, just left the top of the seat unlatched and i have my rear deck ported. listened to mine with the seat up and the seat out and honestly it's not that big of a difference in my case.

Can't go wrong with knu wire, congrats on the purchase.

Thanks for the advice, as soon as get these batteries finished i'll give it a try it could only help , thanks again.