akuma4u

i had to go back and check our convo cuz i forgot but... everything you said basically came true. Like losing the tightness and all that. Thats exactly what happened. To recone, since im in canada, it will cost quite a bit so i dont know if its worth it at this point. Im going to have to think about that one. good chance i will keep it as it is or sell it..not sure if reconing back to stock is a good idea. Ill price it out and see. Please tell me what the advantage of using nsv2 coil is? so one thing i noticed, the guy who built my box, i sent him a screen shot from torres and told him to follow the physical port length to calculate the actual length of the wood pieces. But he ended up using Winisd and got a different result for his port length. I will add screen shots of that convo. i guess torres calculates the port length differently than other box building calculators? this box went inside a genesis coupe which is the worst car ive ever had to work with in terms of car audio. So hard to get bass into the cabin.. thats a whole other thread lol

Its the actual spl surround cone which dropped around 1.5 to 2 yrs ago it is 100% def not the megaroll. I wish that spl cone was the only thing i upgraded and kept everything else stock when i did my recone. I will add pics of box and sub soon. Honestly, this is prob gonna be the last frankenwoofer i will build unless its small upgrades that wont change ts params too much or i am told before hand exactly what or how it will change the stock ts params so there is no guess work or surprises/problems with performance afterwards

K so i called sundown to get their opinion on this. The technician told me that i should go smaller in space 1.75net and tune a little higher like 35 to 36hz and use less port like 24 to 28 sq inches total. When i brought up the x series spider having low fs he said while that is true using the spl cone surround will balance it out. I will do more testing with current box but i think once spring hits i will build a new box with less port area. I totally agree that i have a huge peak or exaggerated low end response like 30 to 40hz and then it just drops from there. All my low end bassline tracks (less than 40hz) sound excellent but i have only a handful of those. The majority 40 to 65hz sound "meh" with 55hz and up sounding like "yo is my amp even on?"

thanks for the response. when i had the stock zv3 12 i was told to do 1.5 to 2 cubes and tune it around 35hz.. apparently that sub likes a small box and it did sound pretty good and did hit wide band. as for this current box, i used triticums port calculator and it told me since im using 2000rms (wolfram c2400 amp) and overpowering it, according to his calculator, i need much more port area than what sundown recommends or else my port velocity would be way too high and i would lose output. anyways.. i had no idea the spider was the culprit. I was wondering which soft parts contribute to the sub being a low end or all around sound type sub. regarding t/s params,.. its impossible to know what those are since its a custom sub. Its all guess work really. i have adjusted the LPF so much and ive never ever been able to get it to play above 50 55 hz or so... crossover on deck has always been set appropriately.. i have never observed the sub itself when its playing higher frequencies.. i guess i should do that. So if its moving but not omitting any sound, what does that mean? and if its not moving at all and no sound what does that mean? chances are, and ive been told by another guy who i explained this situation, he is pushing me to use 24 sq inches on a 2 cube box and says i will be much happier and it will hit a wide band and have better low end as well. I honestly wish i had kept this a stock zv3 and just got the regular parts and only upgraded to the new spl cone they came out with. i was happy with the sound of that sub when it was stock, now im stuck in a guessing game as to whats the problem with this one. also, I did pick up a U SERIES 12, i was actually one of the first ones,. and comparing the u and stock zv3 12s, they are very similar sounding BUT i will still give the win to zv3 for output. i mean it outweighs the u12 by a good 20lbs or so all motor and magnet and just had a little more slam to it. the U to me is a great sub i think of it as the JR. zv3

K , so i had a zv3 12 d2 reconed and i was opted , based on advice from sundown technician over the phone, to upgrade parts to make the sub sound better. So i did. So i what i upgraded were the following: zv4 drop in with brown spider and spl cone spider 234mm brown x 12 v2, dual zv4 coil, triple joint ring 3 inch large zv5 now then, i had a nice box built using plenty of port area and feeding it a clean 2000-2200 rms. box is 2 cubes net tuned to 32hz and has about 40 sq inches of port. now the sub excels in lower frequencies but anything above id say 50-55 hz and its DEAD. I mean there is NOTHING. it makes some songs sound weird as hell cuz its missing the bassline completely. So what i need to know is this.. is this custom sub designed to only play the lower frequencies OR is this a box related issue? sometimes i think i may have used too much port area and that may have killed my upper frequency response? maybe less port area will widen my response? i dunno.. i do know the x series and zv4 and zv5 are more geared towards low end bass .. so since im using parts from those subs, maybe thats why im getting a narrow bandwidth? any insight would be beneficial. I dont want to build a new box if this is a sub issue and will encounter the same problem again no matter what kind of box i build.

Hey im looking to grab an orion xtr 2500 amp but notice there are 2 models. One is a xtr 2500.1d and a new 2018 xtr 2500.1dz model has come out. So my question is what is the difference between the two? Has anyone dynoed the new dz 2500 model? Thanks

why dont you first hear an sa vs U and then come back and say whether its an upgrade or not. Ive ran both and for sure the U is an upgrade. Its enough of an upgrade or improvement that i will never run the SA again unless an emergency situation calls for it

2 12s for sure!

The SA 12s are STILL prob the best sub you could get at its price point however when compared to the U series.. yes there is a difference, they hit harder and take more power. As i stated before, its like an SA on steroids. With the release of these U series subs, it is my opinion and feeling that it officially and firmly places the SA series into the ENTRY level category (I know they were kinda already there but now its like official). For those looking to do a common dual 12 set up with the popular sa12s,. i would spend the extra money and upgrade to 2 12 Us instead,.. they will work in the same space/enclosure as the SAs but will require more power. End result will be totally worth it. After getting this U sub I am now debating whether to keep my sa12 as a back up emergency sub or just sell it off..

My sub was built in north carolina as they didnt receive any 12 d2s prebuilt from china.

Hey what is the model of your hifonics amp? Is it the brx2400.1d? Uhhhhh...didnt notice this post is from november!

Too early for sundown to release box specs and full ts parameters. Ive been dying to know as well. Only thing i was told is that these will work in the same enclosure that you would use for a sa and zv3.. I am assuming it would work in sealed box as both those subs will as well. Im currently using it in a 1.8 or so 34hz 26 sq in port area slot box. It sounds good but i think more port area will allow for more output..will know by monday night cant wait.

adding a vid showing some of the damage a single one of these can do.. note this isnt even in the proper box.

I had the chance to pick up a new sundown u series 12 d2 last week. Drove down to buffalo from toronto to grab it to save on shipping. Before leaving i removed my sa12 from its enclosure which was about 1.85 net tuned to 34hz with 26 sq inches of port area. When i got to buffalo i put the U 12 into the same box roughly now giving it 1.8 cubes and 35hz or so and 2000rms I didnt pound on it for a few days to allow break in..(if that even exists) after a few days i got home and started giving it more and more. I am very pleased. Visually and audibly Its like an sa12 but on steroids. Id say its very close to a zv3 in terms of sound and output but much cheaper. Maybe like a zv3 jr. Size wise, weight wise and visually its right in the middle of the sa12 and zv3. Those 3 subs are like brothers. Hits hard and has a classic bass sound. Wish i had space to run 2 of these. Sundown did a great job designing these. It sounds fantastic. Very happy i picked one up. Totally worth the drive. Will soon put it in a 1.7 to 1.75 net box with 39 sq inches of port. Hopefully that enclosure will make this sub come alive even more. I highly suggest this sub and if you are thinking of getting an sa12 set up its worth the extra 150 or so to upgrade to these instead trust me!

Well- I can't list anything yet because I haven't planned out my build yet I'm in the process of doing that still. What I did have before was a 1000 watt jl amp and an 800.4 hifonics amp. Not sure if this is the preferred method but the way I had the wiring done was to have 0g from starting batt run to the trunk batt which then from trunk batt to distribution block. From distribution block it was split into 2 4g one to each amp. More than likely, I'm just goin to buy the biggest alt I can find that fits my car. I am going to try ohio generator today. I heard they might have one for my car.

that im not sure of i recently pulled out everything and sold everything. but is that how it works? for example if i had 2 100amp fuses and 1 200amp fuse, the total amps my alt would need to push is 400+60 for car = 460?

ok cool.. just wanted to make sure because i heard a rumor a little while ago that a guy put in a h/o alt and he fried a lot of electronic components in his car due to the excessive current/voltage... also, is it 10 amps for every 100 watts? is that how it goes?

quick question... if i buy an alt that puts out MORE amps than my car/audio system needs,. will that hurt anything? like could it possibly OVERcharge batteries and cause too much current flow etc?

ok cool done.. lets see what he says.

ok i will call him up on monday... do u have his contact info handy?

yes i contacted singer. Please keep in mind though, i did all the searching maybe about a year ago... mmmmaybe they released one for my car now? but yea.. a year ago i called up all the major alt makers and no one made one for my car which is a 2010 hyundai genesis coupe 2.0t

word but from the one dude i asked about fitting an alt in there his response was "its way too tight in there" so i did not bother to continue on that route.. perhaps i will ask someone else .. i really wish someone made an alt for my car, id pick it up right away.

problem is bro... no one makes a performance alt for my car so how am i going to solve this problem in the most economical way? need to run 2500-3200rms on 110amp alt..

ok so if i keep my stock alt which does 110 amps i believe, and i have an agm as a starting batt, what is the max rms i can run and which trunk batt would i use to run that???? im looking around 2500-3200rms range for my next build... would a single d3100 in the back with agm under hood and stock 110amp alt be enough???

Hey i have an xspower d1200 it says its perfect for systems from 1500-3000 wrms , i had it running on a system that was 1000wrms i am doing a rebuilt with a help of a pro this time , looking to go about 2000-3000rms he says that for every 2krms i need a d3100 battery.. but according to XS power to run 2krms my d1200 would be sufficient. D3100 batteries are good for systems from 4000-5000rms+... so whats up with that? why would he recommend a d3100 for 2000rms when xs power lists that big ass battery for 5000rms systems? for added headroom? would i still be ok with my d12?? thanks