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Found 400 results

  1. I finally got around to filling my holes on my f150. I got a 40"x 8" piece and cut out what I needed. And I got plenty left over to do my neon. I looked Around online mostly on eBay and the price for one that was already cut to size was crazy. The average cost was about $120.00 bucks,so I started to look at sheets and they wanted around $90.00. so I dug a little deeper and found this sheet for $35.00.its probably not as thick and durable as the other ones but was way more easier to cut and bend.and it's mostly for looks anyways Why is it such a pain in the @$$ to post pictures on here! Giving my electrical system a workout
  2. Sundown Audio SAE-1500D (Refurbished)

    Amp guts from a refurbished SAE-1500D. Its dusty from being in the car. Should've cleaned it up a lil better for this post but meh. Brands inside: Texas Instruments Cap-Top (for all caps) Not sure what was reworked, but I took some pics of the less-pretty joints: This looks sketchy as fuck... One of the words under the sharpie is "EXTREME" but I cant make out any of the other words/letters/numbers.
  3. Sundown Audio SCV-6000D

    Had to pull my amp out, so I took the opportunity to take some sunny pictures. EDIT: had to update from Photbucket to Flickr. New links shown below. Brands inside: Samwha Samyoung CapXon That sink
  4. So here is my question, I have ofc 4 gauge ran from the front to my back battery. Right now I only have 1 -1000 watt mono block for my sub. I want to power my door speakers with a 4 channel amp. Should I run 0 gauge to a distro block and continue 0 to my power cell and use the 4 gauge for my door speaker amp. Or should I just do another run of 4 gauge to my second amp.
  5. So, this will be one slowwww ass build. I just got the truck not very long ago. As soon as I got it I started to work on the little things that were wrong with it. This will be both a performance build log and audio. So first things first. I stripped all the interior so I can have access to the floor to clean it and apply some second skin. I bought a 40 pound box of b stock Second Skin (which I used up on the floor). I used the 40 pound box and about another box and a half (20 sheets) of damp pro. Overall I got a minimum of 2 layers some spots 3/4. Reason I put so much emphasis on the floor is because the trucks exhaust will be loud once it's done. Anyway here are some pictures.
  6. I am trying to find out information on ported box size for the team neo 15s. i am looking at putting 2 into a 03 mazda protege 5 at the b pillar 15k out of 2 sundown scv-7500d any information to figure out what to do would be greatly appreciated
  7. Hi, i'm designing a box for my zv5 15", i've do a project with google sketchup but i don't know if my design is good or not(i leave the google sketch project). I've do my project Seeing this video: box parameters: net cu.ft= 4,25cu.ft tuning freq=32hz W(28,74") - H(21,5") - D(20,75")=OUTER DIMENSIONS driver displacement= 0.25 cu.ft port displacement= 1,57 cu.ft port dimension = W(3,4") - H(20") - LENGTH(33.6")(carstereo.com) my question is: IS GOOD THIS TUTORIAL?IN WINISD THE PROJECTS CHANGES (the port length is different on winisd) For this reason I am doubtful on my design. Can you eventually crete your own design if my box is not good? PS 1x sundown zv5 15.skp
  8. Sundown zv4 15 box

    I need a box for my sundown zv4 15 rev1. Ive got it on a hifonics 1800.1 at 1 ohm. It slams right now in its current box but It sounds like the box is tuned to 35 or 36 hz. I want to build a 30hz or a low slamming box. Im new to building boxes but I work for a cabinet company so am pretty good with wood work and measurements and I have the tools so I thought I would give it a shot. What would be a good low hitting box tuned to 28-30hz for the zv4 15. I also want to know what program is good for tuning and sizing your boxes. I drive a mercury grand marquis so space isn't really an issue. Could someone design me a box for this thing that would slam 28-30hz? Any other ideas?
  9. So first of all, let me say that this is a subjective review, backed by some testings. Don't expect something ultra scientific - just my opinion on this beast. The subwoofer belongs to a friend of mine. It is a Sundown Zv4 rev.2 15" with NSv2 D2 coil. Here it is next to his Ground Zero Plutonium 15" and next to my humble 12". His car is an Audi A6 C4 Avant. He has an OEM 120A alt (which will be changed when possible), one 70ah AGM battery at the front and three 105ah AGM batteries at the back. He has a GZPA 1.10k HC amp, which claims to produce a bit over 10k at 1 ohm. The subwoofer box was built by me - 4,6 cu.ft. (130 litres) tuned at 32hz with an interchangeable 8" aero. Double layer mdf everywhere and triple layer baffle. And in the car: Now for some impressions. Pictures and videos do this thing no justice! If you haven't seen or touched a sub that big, it literally shocks you. I am very impressed with everything about this thing - the new cooling on the motor, the new surround, the leads.... Let me say that this is the first sundown new platform sub that I have touched with my hands. I can only imagine how big the NSv3 and the Team are... I won't post pictures of different parts of the sub - you have probably seen them already. The cooling is a bit noisy (which I think is a good thing because of the higher velocity of the air that cools the coil - Jacob could chime in on that) but the suspension itself is VERY quiet up to very high excursion. I don't think the leads will have any problems with the power you'd like to throw at it. Mechanically this thing is top notch - the linear excursion is high enough to ensure high spl levels without much distortion and the hard bottom limits of the motor/coil are pretty hard to reach. You will more likely stress the soft parts before the coil gets close to the bottom - we will get to that part later. Thermally - WOW! For a "2000" rms sub this thing cools like a champ! Good job on that! I know that this particular one is with a bit longer coil (from NSv2) but you get the idea. When we first loaded the sub, we expected that it won't require much power and we will have to bring down the gains from the previous setup (GZPW 15SPL tuned at 47hz, wired at 0,5 ohm). Boy, was I mistaken! We only had to adjust the filters a bit. If the power we gave it was clean - no signs of any smell or overheating. It only smelled when the power was clipped. Keep in mind that the sub was rather new on that moment, so It wasn't broken in completely. From then to now there is a night and day difference. With this 10k amp, wired at 1 ohm and with this box, we didn't experience any mechanical trouble near or above tuning. The amp would start clipping before we could stress the suspention enough to turn it down. We left the LPF at 40hz with 12db slope. Of course, we had to use subsonic, but nothing drastic. When the cone exceeds its linear travel, the suspension starts stressing and there is BL distortion, so it gets a bit loud mechanically, but we're talking over 3" p-p. Mechanical limit of the motor is over 4" as you all know - we didn't dare reach it. It's not healthy for the driver either Surprisingly, even with a 32hz tuning and a bigger than suggested box, it played the higher frequencies quite well - was very surprised on that! I wanted to tune this thing at 28-29, but there wasn't enough space for that - we used a straight aeroport and we had to keep an adequate distance between the walls and the mouths of the port. Next box will definitely be slightly bigger on volume and lower on tuning! On its first competition it did 151,7db at 36hz on the dash - driver's door open and with people pushing the doors. It also did 135,6db at 25hz, 149db at 33hz and 149,7db at 40hz. It wasn't broken in completely, but I can't say how much that will affect the scores. We measured the power going to the sub on different frequencies using the clamping method, which is NOT the most adequate way to do this, but it gets the work done. There was NO clipping during these tests, therefore the sub stayed cool the whole time and there wasn't any sign of smell, even when measuring at tuning. I'll just put the numbers we got at tuning (32hz) and at best score (36hz). These tests were NOT done when we measured the system on the competition - when we measure we introduce a bit of clipping to get the score higher. System voltage stayed between 12.3-12.8 during the tests. At 36hz 116.1V x 24.7A = 2867 watts, rising to 4,7 ohms At 32hz 109.9V x 44.0A = 4835 watts, rising to 2,5 ohms I repeat, these tests were done with no clipping and without fully charged batteries. The test tones were played for a couple of seconds to ensure that the sub doesn't have any problems with longer playing on that power. The power needed to achieve the scores I mentioned earlier would have been a bit higher. So yeah, I can pretty much say that on 2000 watts, be it clamped or with a 2-3k amp, this subwoofer will have ABSOLUTELY NO problems (if it is clean, of course). If you keep the power clean and adjust the subsonic properly, you could feed this thing A LOT of power. And that's daily - on burp it could and would handle much more. I don't even understand how people can listen to this with a 3-4k amp for example - it just begs for more (clean) power! If I could wire this thing at 0,5 ohm on this 10k amp (after getting proper alternator) - I'd deffinitely do it. It's better to keep a powerful amp down, rather than clipping a smaller one. Of course, with higher power comes greater responsibility, so I'd have to adjust the gains and filters accordingly, but overal I don't think I'll have a problem and it will perform better than now. Do I recommend on going over the rated power? Absolutely no! At least for those who don't know what they are doing. You will void your warranty and may damage the subwoofer. Thank you for your time, hope you enjoyed my review! Here's a little "shirt" trick for finale. Wait a bit for the good part.
  10. Skar 800.1 w/ Sundown?

    Looking for anybody to comment back, Hey Guys! Not new to car audio, but never dealt with Sundown or Skar before. Long question short, Would the Skar Audio RP-800.1D Match well with a Sundown EV3 10 or 12 D4 with VCs in parallel? 600wrms rated at 2 ohms on the amp, Subs both rated for 500wrms? Looking to put in the deck shelf of a 1978 Grand Marquis, ported box tuned to 28-30hz is the goal. Not looking to shake everyone around me, just add some nice low end to accompany my Pioneer D series components and 6x9s on a Pioneer 8604. Thanks in advance!
  11. I really need help with a box design for a zv3 15" d1 that I just picked. I have it in a Dodge ram 1500 reg cab. I pulled out the center console and built a box between the seats. The first box I tried was 3ft after disp @34hz using 2-4" ports and running off a sundown sae1200. The sub was facing up and ports coming out the front towards the dash. It sounded OK but would not play Lowe's very well for a 15" sub. So I built another box that is 3.5ft after disp @ 31.5hz using a single 6inch port, same with sub facing up and port forward and it still does not pick up lows like I think it should. Is it the port size? Is it the single cab of my truck? Is it the way the sub and port are arranged???? Any help would be great, thanks!!
  12. Finally finished the enclosure. 2 Sundown X 15s on a sundown SAZ-3000d. Running at 1 ohm. Box is tuned to 32 hz. Running 4 neo pro 6.5 in the doors and 4 sundown super tweeters. Sounds awesome!
  13. Hey guys, first off I'd like to say great forum!! I have learned so much here and acquired so much inspiration from reading others post that I took on the challenge of trying to unsuck my Ram factory Alpine system. I'm hoping to find someone here that has some experience with this truck to help me in my quest. I'm deep into trying to make this "upgraded" Alpine system sound good. I wont bore you with what I've tried because that list is of great length.. I'll just start with what I have now and where I'd like to go, if that is okay. Hertz 3.5 in the dash (all 3), Hertz 6x9 3 way front and rear doors and Hertz 1" tweeters in the front door panels to add a little extra touch (the front doors are crossed over at midbass only.. should have went with a mid driver was unaware of crossover points at time of purchase). Two sundown SA 10s on a SCV 2000D in a Fox acoustics box, Fosgate 1/0 amp kit, LC2I LOC, 220 amp alt, dual batteries. The doors and dash speakers are running off the factory amp and crossover points. It sounds amazing compared to the Alpine factory crap that was in there.. The LC2I is hooked into the factory sub channels The subs is where I keep having issues, I am not sure what frequency the factory sub channel operates and can not find any information. I'm assuming its low as I have unloaded a sub or two to the point of mechanical failure thinking the factory sub was protected by some kind of factory crossover point.. The Box is 1.35cf of airspace per side tuned to 35hz the subs displacement is .1 and calls for 1.0 to 1.25 of air space and sundown recommends 35hz port, so this box is built for the subs. The amp is more than enough to push these things so what is going on??? Seems like the bass rolls off on the SSF way to fast low pass is set to 95ish.. I need to get this thing meter set to make sure my crossovers are set correctly but having a hard time finding a competent shop here in the 4th largest city in America.. Oh and I have the SA D4s wired to 1ohm. The SCV remote comes with a clipping light and seems very accurate. I set the gain using a multimeter using the watts x ohms square roots system, calculated for box rise so 750 x 2 = 1500 x 2 = 3000 square root = 54.77 volts. I then pay close attention to the clipping light. 1st question, since these subs are beast mode can i just leave the SSF set at 10? 2nd question, should I set the low pass higher to something around 110 to 120? 3rd question, how can I figure out the frequency coming to the amp? I have tried the LC7I to sum all channels but it seems like it wont get low at all using this method.
  14. This isn't my first build, but it is the first that i am documenting. I am not an expert, but I do think i know as much or more than anyone working at my local shops. That being said I have a lot to learn. The build is nothing too special, I am happy with it and open to suggestions/ constructive criticism and questions. The Car Details: 2005 MINI Cooper S (R53), 65K miles, chrono package, NON-JCW. So far: Performance/Appearance -Strut Tower Reinforcement Plates -LED Fogs and Running lights -Conti Extreme Contact DWS's -10% Tint all around. -Cravenspeed Stubby Antenna -Cravenspeed Dipstick -17% Cravenspeed Pulley (w/ 532 belt) -NGK 7 Colder Spark Plugs -ATI Racing Crank Pulley -ScanGauge 2 (boost, AIT, voltage, ect) -5Zero4 R53 Door and and scoop graphics (not yet installed) -DDM powdercoated intake with Dry paper Filter -Upper Motor Mount From Greene Performance Audio -Pioneer DEH-80PRS -Stock component tweeter and 5.25" frontstage (alpine or Harmon Kardon made them) and stock 6x9 rears -XS Power D4700 battery (in stock location in the rear floor) -SHCA OFC 1/0 run front to back and for grounds for Big 3, also used for amp +/- all fused with SHCA fuses -SHCA RCAs -LC-1 -SHCA 8 gauge OFC wire for speaker wire -Sundown ZV.4 10" -Sundown SAZ-2500D v.2 -Custom Box 1.5 cuft net, tuned at 32 Hz wrapped in red (Thanks to JoeX for the design help) Coming Soon Eventually (In no particular order) -Chrome delete/blackout -Rear seat delete -Custom Exhaust (header back, prob catless) -RMW fully built 1.8 or 2.0 Liter Stroker Engine -RMW "Jesus" Head -RMW Custom Race Header -RMW Grand Am Cam -RMW Tune -Borg Warner Turbo, TVS, or Rotrex Supercharger Upgrade (I'll decide when i cross that bridge) -Meth injection Kit -Vipec ECU -Suspension Upgrades -Enkei Racing PF01 17" wheels -R56 big brake swap -Roll cage/6point harnesses. -Front stage and rear fill upgrades and amp -Switching the Zv4 10" for an 8" or 2 for weight/charging -Singer Alt (still discussing practicality due to stability issues at High RPM, NOT MIKE'S FAULT) -Sound deadening (If I track the car i will not be worrying about this but if it remains a DD then I will) Notes I recently graduated with a biology degree and am headed soon to complete a masters of medical sciences. From there it will be off to Med school, so this will be a slow build. The second issue is that this is my daily so, I cant do anything that will put it out of commission for more than a weekend. Some of the stuff I listed is wishful, but I do plan on getting everything listed eventually if i can keep this car and get a different daily (possibly post grad or medschool). I have and probably will continue to do all the work myself. Im learning as I go. PICS COMING SOON!
  15. 2 Strapped Amps Vs 1 Big Amp

    Quick question, I've been running two SCV 3000ds strapped at 1 ohm or .5ohm per amp on my NSV3 15" for the last 6 months, recently fried an amp through my own error. I have an opportunity to swap and get a new scv 6000d for cheap and was wondering switch setup would be louder and better overall. I've got a singer 330 and 2 D3400 and 1 D3100. The setup was loud as hell, now 1 3000d is just not loud at all. Also I have been considering getting a Orion HCCA 8000.1 because they do rated 12.6v and obv I'd have shit tons of headroom. I need opinions thanks.
  16. Box for 3 sundown sa 12s

    Dimensions- 43.5w 16h 20d can possibly go slightly larger on height and depth Vehicle- 2007 jeep grand cherokee Power- soundstream 2600.1d Subs- 3 sundown sa 12s d4 Tuning- around 34 hz This is what I came up with but I think the dimensions might need to be a little larger- http://s1335.photobucket.com/user/mhhumphrey1/media/boxsundown_zps1f8a6d1d.png.html?sort=3&o=0
  17. Hey guys, I've been looking at the Sundown X8 V2 for a few days now. I don't really need more subwoofers but...who can resist that beasty little monster? Every since I got my American Bass VFL 8" subs and saw people's reactions to them, I've fell in love with using predominantly 8 inch subs. I like trying them out and seeing how they all sound. I was actually about to pull the trigger on a set of PSI 8 inch subs until this Sundown sub caught my eye. This isn't a vs. thread, I'm just looking for some reviews from anyone who has ran, or does run the Sundown X8 V2 subs. I'd be running these with a VFL 2680.1D amp, a secondary XS D1200 battery and stinger isolator. They'd be in a ported box at 32hz. Can anyone tell me if these subs sound as mean as they look? What can I expect? Would the 2680.1D be enough power for them, or will they want more? I see they're rated for 750rms each and the VFL 2680.1D is supposed to provide 1300 RMS. I think that's a pretty close match, right? Any information is greatly appreciated. I'm not looking for anyone to bash all the other 8 inch subs, I just want to know specifically about the Sundown. Feel free to PM if you prefer. Thanks!
  18. Hey guys! Newbie here, hopefully you guys could help give a once-over to my build. Currently I'm rockin a Sundown SA12 in my '07 Honda Civic Coupe. Unfortunately I've decided I'd like to move to something smaller/ a box that's more tailored to my trunk to have a bit more space. The box is in the trunk of course, pushed against the back seat as snug as possible. I've gone with a Skar VVXv3 10, just waiting for it to show up at my door currently, very excited to try this thing. I'll be pushing ~1000 watts to it (Alpine MRP-M1000), and the box I designed is ~1.3 cubic feet after displacements, tuned hopefully to around 33Hz. If the picture is difficult to see I apologize, it's just easiest for me to work it out that way. I'm basically looking for confirmation that my numbers are correct in regards to tuning and volume, and that there'll be no port noise issues. Any advice would be great as I'm still learning, I've only built one previous box. Thanks guys! BOX WIDTH: 34 BOX HEIGHT: 12 BOX DEPTH: 11 WOOD THICKNESS: 0.75 PORT WIDTH: 2 PORT LENGTH: 31 Each piece constructing the port is 7.5 inches. Of course I'd like the sub to get low, with a fairly flat frequency response if at all possible. I'm not looking to win SPL competitions... it's a single 10, but I'm positive this will be enough to keep me happy in a proper box. I'd like to do it right the first time. I know lots of you have much more knowledge than me and I'm excited to hear back! CHANGE OF PLANS...... Unfortunately there was a mix-up with Skar Audio (no hard feelings at all, just an order mistake) and so I've decided to go with a Sundown X-8.
  19. I need you guys to help me i want to build a box in a 2009 tahoe for a single zv4 15 tuned to 32hz im pushing it w a soundqubed 2200 thanks in advance guys
  20. (Sorry if bad english) Hi, I currently have a Hifonics BRX2416.1D (which delivers 1600w at 2 ohms) for my Sundown X12 V.2 (1500W, dual coil). The sub is 4ohm and wired at 2ohm, so it takes about 1600W. I want to buy another X12 V.2 D4, and a BRX3016.1d (which delivers 2000w at 2 ohms) to have a good amount of power and to wire the two amps as slave / master. But I really don't know : - Is it possible to wire two different amps as slave master? (like the 2416.1d and 3016.1d) - What will be the impedence if I put my two subs in parallel or series? - How many watts will each subs recieve? - If I manage to get about 2000w for each sub, will they take it or will they break? (I heard that sundown subs are underrated by the manufacturer) Thanks !
  21. Hey guys I am looking to start a new build in my 2008 Tahoe. I am set on 4 SA 15's. I was wondering if anyone could lead me in the right direction to get some ideas for an enclosure. I will have the whole trunk to work with. (Behind the rear passenger seat, third row has been removed) Any replies are appreciated !
  22. Sundown SA-15

    Okay so i just got my sundown sa-15 running on 1200 watts.. I listen to music like...Webbie Six 12s, 21 savage stuff, and alot of Future stuff which has that deep boomy bass I am wondering what sound i tune it to i was thinking 32hz,33hz,34hz,35hz i dont think i want to go higher than 35 from what i been reading so basic on the music i listen to what do you guys think i should tune to?
  23. Hey I recently bought a sundown amp but I am a little confused on how to wire it up. They show a diagram in the owners manual but I don't really understand it. It's a monoblock amp but it has dual out puts. Do I just use one of the positives and negatives? Or do I just take 2 from the positive out put and connect them together and then do the same thing with the negative output? I know I could probably guess and it would work but I just wanted to know what the best way was.
  24. Hey guys, I am new to this forum and would appreciate all the feedback I can get! Decided to go with sundown because of all the positive reviews and great community! Anyways I want to build something that will give me the bump I am looking for in my daily driver. I had 2 15 kicker l7s previously with rated rms. This will be for a 2012 chevy Tahoe with alot of room to work with. After tons of research I have decided I really like the X series. I am thinking about ordering 2 x15's with an either sundown4000.1 or the skar 4500.1 (little cheaper) (student loan life) and building a custom ported box to spec. Now with it tuned correctly and installed correctly, do you guys recommend upgrading electrical for this set up? All feedback is greatly appreciated, and suggestions are welcomed.