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About akuma4u

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    Toronto, Ontario, Canada

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  1. Hey. I need to buy a 2kish range amp. I got my choices down to brutal sounds bs 2.1 and the wolfram c2400 Both do about same numbers. Bs2.1 is korean while wolf isnt. Bs2.1 apparently does over 90% efficiency based on budget gem or bust dyno on youtube. Purpose of this thread is to find out if that efficiency is legit or is something else going on? I did research and found out the brutal sounds company incorrectly advertised their bs5.1 amps current draw and had to remove their dyno on fb and refund a couple guys for false advertising so i hope the same thing isnt going on with the 2.1. Wolfram is much cheaper as well than the bs 2.1. But if that 90% efficiency at 1ohm is true on the bs, then its worth the extra cash in my opinion. I appreciate all advice on which way i should go. Thanks
  2. Thx for the reply..i guess i should just keep using the hifonics..
  3. Hey im currently trying to upgrade my amp. I have a hifonics brx2400.1d. It has been dynoed online to do about 2000rms at 14.4 i believe. It pushes my sundown subs nicely so i know its decent. One of their better amps. However i have a feeling its current hungry and not that efficient. Anyways, i saw the wolfram c2400 which does 2500rms at 1ohm 14.4 and 78% efficiency or the bs2.1 which is 90% efficient! And does around same numbers as the wolfram. So my question is, going from the hifonics 2000 rms at 14.4 vs wolframs 2500 at 14.4, will i notice an audible difference? I know the wolfram will be more efficient If no then its kinda pointless to invest into a new amp and just continue rocking the hifonics till it dies. Thanks
  4. my mids play from 83hz to 5000hz .. they dont dig too deep and when i have them playing into the 80 to 150hz range, the bass they create at that range sounds like its cancelling the sub bass that is created in that range. I forgot to mention i am using an audiocontrol epicenter.
  5. Man, i think im gonna grab that bs2.1. Ive heard nothing but good things and so efficient. Never seen such an efficient amp tbh. Now im gonna get a strike for non payment for that orion on ebay ..dang
  6. I just read this now..after i just won an ebay auction for a used xtr for 220...i have my doubts as im on stock alt with 2 agms. The current draw is high on this amp so its very power hungry hence the heat etc. High maintainance amp. The other 2 amps i had in mind were the wolfram c2400 and the brutal sounds bs2.1. obv they do way less rms but they are much more efficient esp the bs 2.1 its like 91% efficient and they both have a variable ssf. They barely get warm even when running full blast.
  7. Hey kinda off topic but...can an aa mayhem 12 work in 2 cubes net? I am thinking of upgrading to that sub but got limited space
  8. I fooled around with the slopes. The sub bass is so loud that it just kills and drowns out all midbass so whether at 12db 200 hz or 24db 200hz it doesnt change a whole lot. I still felt 200hz 24db slope with subs 100hz 24db slope sounded best. Perhaps its just the way my car is. I did however increase the speaker levels to +5 on the fronts and it made the total system sound louder and clearer. Im using a custom zv3 with zv4 x12 v2 and zv5 soft parts with spl cone off of about 1700 to 1900rms My mids are 6.5 inch crescendo pwx pro audio speakers getting about 100 to 120 rms each
  9. I havent messed around with slopes too much but for sub i prefer a steeper slope. Ill mess around with hp and lp slopes today and see how it sounds.
  10. i usually have my sub and mids/highs crossed over at 100hz sub and 100hz mids/highs. both at -24db slopes My mids/highs consist of 2x 6.5s in the front doors and 2 tweeters. Today i noticed that if i bumped the HPF on the highs/mid crossover on the deck, to 200hz instead of the usual 100, the sub bass becomes much more clearer and deep and perceivedly louder. So what i believe is going on is that a ton of cancellation is going on between the lower mid bass frequency of my 6.5s and the upper sub bass frequency of my sub. I do drive a coupe and there is not a lot of cabin space so im sure a bunch of those frequencies are easily bumping into each other. is my assumption correct? and is this the proper way to deal with it? or is something else going on? the other option i could do is instead cross my subs at 63hz and mids at 100-125hz.. i havent tried it this way but the way it is now with subs at 100 and mids at 200 sounds pretty sweet. i just hope im not missing out on any important midrange/midbass elements from the music being crossed that high.
  11. I want to get this amp but the subsonic 25hz or off option is bugging me. My boxes are tuned to mid to high 30s so my ssf needs to be set to 30hz no less or else it starts sounding dirty, (at least it does from testing on other amps), so setting it to 25hz on a 36 to 38hz tuned box sounds like a no go... If anyone can verify this or if 25hz would actually be ok pls let me know. Would love to get this amp!
  12. Ok great will do. I can get welders cable much cheaper than i can 0g audio cable If i used 0g branded sundown audio cable for my pos to pos is it ok to use welder cable for the neg to neg? In other words is it ok to mix and match diff brands or types of 0g wire for big 3 and wiring up multiple batteries?
  13. Ok thanks. I guess even tho i have both front and rear batt neg to chassis, for peace of mind ill do a run of 0g between front and rear neg terminals Btw, is 0g welders pure copper wire good for big 3 and neg and pos battery runs or should i be using only ofc quality wire?
  14. Hi. I need some help on proper way to connect front and rear battery. Im hearing 2 different things One thing im hearing is to hook up front pos to rear pos and front neg to rear neg. With 2 fuses near each batt for pos to pos. The second thing im hearing is if i have done big 3 upgrade then to just do front pos to rear pos with 2 fuses in place just before the batts and front neg big 3 upgrade to chassis is done and for rear batt also ground to cassis. So which way is right? If i have the big 3 done should i omit the front batt neg to chassis and instead do a big 2 and front neg to rear neg instead? Or is it not necessary and just keep it neg to chassis and rear neg to chassis? Thanks
  15. this if funny because i swear before when i was looking into enclosures and stuff,. others told me i can easily manipulate port area but simply adding some wood to the port. they made it sound so easy i really thought all i had to do was use a little piece of wood the same width as the port and just choose the height and the depth or length of that chunk didnt really matter as long as i made the actual port hole smaller is what was important. guess its not that simple. anyways no biggie i just wanted to run a test between what the manufacturers recommend vs making a bigger port as advised by tritis port area calculator and really hear what kind of difference it makes first hand.
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