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About akuma4u

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    Toronto, Ontario, Canada

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  1. this if funny because i swear before when i was looking into enclosures and stuff,. others told me i can easily manipulate port area but simply adding some wood to the port. they made it sound so easy i really thought all i had to do was use a little piece of wood the same width as the port and just choose the height and the depth or length of that chunk didnt really matter as long as i made the actual port hole smaller is what was important. guess its not that simple. anyways no biggie i just wanted to run a test between what the manufacturers recommend vs making a bigger port as advised by tritis port area calculator and really hear what kind of difference it makes first hand.
  2. decrease it by 10 to 15 sq inches just as a test to see what happens to the bandwidth and output.
  3. so if i have a standard L style port, the piece of wood i add would need to cover the entire L port in length and obviously width and height dependant on how much port i wanna reduce? if thats the case,. no can do as i cant access the entire L port length.
  4. I know if you have a box built and want to decrease the port area, you just have to fill up the port hole. But what is the proper way to do this? lets say my port width is 2 inches wide,. i know you put in a 2 inch wide piece of wood and as high as you want,. the higher the more port area will be reduced,. but what about the length? does the piece of wood have to be .75 inch long 1 inch or as long as the front to the back of the entire port inside the box? which in my case would be 16 or so inches? so width and height i understand.. but length i need clarification on. thanks
  5. i know it wont be as loud as ported but it will be tighter and cleaner and better for the music i listen to. i just want to make sure the -3db point is decent. ive ran 2 12s off 500 rms sealed and those KILLED the lows way better than my 2000rms ported 12. dont know if it was transfer function of that car vs the car i have now or if it was the set up itself. also, in order to fit 2 12s i can only run them sealed as i have space limitations.
  6. hey , i am thinking of picking up two of these 12s and running them sealed off 1750-2000rms.. i specifically want to know how loud these can get and how low they will play in a sealed enclosure that is build to spec (i can go a little bigger than spec as well but not much). These call for 1.15 per sub sealed. so if someone can graph these for me.. that would be much appreciated! CAS crystal audio solutions https://crystalaudiosolutions.com/shop?olsPage=products%2Fcs612v2&page=1 CS612V2 the subs specs are as follows: 750 RMS 2.5" Copper Coil FS: 33 QTS: .5 QES: .62 QMS: 4.78 VAS: 25.53 L BL: 22 MMs: 250G CMS: .06 MM/N SENS: 89 1W/1M Displacement .15FT^3 sealed 1.15 FT^3 ported 1.5-2.0 FT^3 @ 34hz 15sqin of port Cut out 11.25" Mounting depth "7.5 Xmax 22mm
  7. hey, im looking for an indash eq that will allow me to cut or boost 35 to 45hz band range. most i have seen have a 50hz knob and they are graphic eqs, so im not sure if they will get low enough to cut or boost the 35 to 45hz range. the clarion eq 755 seems highly rated but again only 50hz knob is the lowest it goes.. for those who have this eq, can u confirm if that 50hz knob can cut or boost the 40hz range as well? im using an epicenter and need an eq. i have bass heavy songs which dont need the epicenter at all as their basslines are 0db -2db etc,.. but then i have many tracks that have -12db basslines and the epicenter really helps make those sound great. the problem i have is this: once the epicenter is being used and knob is half way or full or whatever, it makes those bass lacking tracks sound amazing but then when i put on a track that has a lot of bass , i turn the knob off on the epi but then the song is flat and if i try to turn the epi knob up it sounds like utter crap, distorted and just awful so i turn the knob off and then i have to increase the sub level on the head unit and then it sounds nice. then once a song comes on that needs epi, i gotta decrease the sub level on hu and turn epi knob up. its annoying to do this. so my theory is that if i buy an eq with a 40hz band, instead of increasing and decreasing my sub level, i can just cut the 40hz band on the tracks that do need epi, that way i can keep the sub level on the hu set without ever adjusting it every time. i hope that makes sense. its easier turning a knob then pressing a whole bunch of buttons on the head unit to get to the sub level. so if anyone can recommend me some eqs that are in dash, that can cut boost the 40hz range, that would be much appreciated
  8. yes but would full range thru the sub out or rear out? im sure someone with a double din pioneer is using an epicenter here,. what did you use? is 200hz a full enough range for the epicenter to work properly? regarding the epicenter,. from what ive been told, it will enhance all music in terms of low end bass, as long as you feed it a full range signal. so i bought it for that reason. according to the majority of reviews, its a great product.
  9. Hey I got an audiocontrol epicenter black version and im a little confused on how to install it. I know the epicenter needs a full range of signal in order for it to work properly. I am using pioneer avh 4800bs head unit and it has crossover options. I can run the sub out from deck into the epi and then out to mono amp. Since it needs a full range i can either turn the crossover for sub off on the deck OR i can choose the highest crossover point on the deck for the sub which is 200hz. Is 200hz high enough of a signal for the epicenter to work? if not, then if i turn the low pass filter for the sub OFF on the deck then i have no idea what range that goes up to or if it becomes full range or not. The other option is to run the REAR channel from deck to epicenter then out to mono amp. For sure , if i do it this way i can turn the low pass for rear channel off and it will give me a full range. So whats the correct way to do this? thanks for the help
  10. I got 2 subs and they need to be wired up together. 8g will be too big. 12 maybe..if not 14g. That should be ok i believe
  11. Thanks everyone for your responses. I too was thinking it was way too thin. Like there was maybe only 15 strands or so.. Perhaps it was used out of convenience..beats me. Anyways, Im going to swap it out for 12 to 14g and see what happens.
  12. My buddy used 18g pure copper wire to hook up to 2 jl 12w7s 1000rms each sub and connected it to a 2400rms amp running at 1.5 ohms. The wire was so thin but he assured me its ok and plus its pure copper so it is better than regular speaker wire So..the result was meh from the subs..trying to eliminate possible reasons why they didnt perform better..it could be cuz they were in a sealed box or it could be because the 18g wire is too thin not enough strands so not enough wattage is being carried over.. Would like some opinions on this. Is the 18g wire def a no go and prob causing the lack of performance? Thanks
  13. k thanks ill add a divider. it will act as a brace and i need one so i guess its a good idea to use it
  14. thanks guys.. with my max dimensions im able to JUST perfectly give the subs what they need. They require 2.75 net after all displacements.. and i come up at 2.74 but this is WITHOUT a divider in the middle.. so if i were to add a divider in the middle , that would be another displacement but i dont know how to calculate that displacement.. maybe you can give me a rough estimate? my box is 32 wide x 13.5 high x 16.5 deep, 2 subs each .14 displacement. each sub needs 1.375 net entering in these dimensions into torres and using a double baffle i get 2.74net but i dont know how to calculate the divider displacement..
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