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About akuma4u

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    Toronto, Ontario, Canada

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  1. hey, im looking for an indash eq that will allow me to cut or boost 35 to 45hz band range. most i have seen have a 50hz knob and they are graphic eqs, so im not sure if they will get low enough to cut or boost the 35 to 45hz range. the clarion eq 755 seems highly rated but again only 50hz knob is the lowest it goes.. for those who have this eq, can u confirm if that 50hz knob can cut or boost the 40hz range as well? im using an epicenter and need an eq. i have bass heavy songs which dont need the epicenter at all as their basslines are 0db -2db etc,.. but then i have many tracks that have -12db basslines and the epicenter really helps make those sound great. the problem i have is this: once the epicenter is being used and knob is half way or full or whatever, it makes those bass lacking tracks sound amazing but then when i put on a track that has a lot of bass , i turn the knob off on the epi but then the song is flat and if i try to turn the epi knob up it sounds like utter crap, distorted and just awful so i turn the knob off and then i have to increase the sub level on the head unit and then it sounds nice. then once a song comes on that needs epi, i gotta decrease the sub level on hu and turn epi knob up. its annoying to do this. so my theory is that if i buy an eq with a 40hz band, instead of increasing and decreasing my sub level, i can just cut the 40hz band on the tracks that do need epi, that way i can keep the sub level on the hu set without ever adjusting it every time. i hope that makes sense. its easier turning a knob then pressing a whole bunch of buttons on the head unit to get to the sub level. so if anyone can recommend me some eqs that are in dash, that can cut boost the 40hz range, that would be much appreciated
  2. yes but would full range thru the sub out or rear out? im sure someone with a double din pioneer is using an epicenter here,. what did you use? is 200hz a full enough range for the epicenter to work properly? regarding the epicenter,. from what ive been told, it will enhance all music in terms of low end bass, as long as you feed it a full range signal. so i bought it for that reason. according to the majority of reviews, its a great product.
  3. Hey I got an audiocontrol epicenter black version and im a little confused on how to install it. I know the epicenter needs a full range of signal in order for it to work properly. I am using pioneer avh 4800bs head unit and it has crossover options. I can run the sub out from deck into the epi and then out to mono amp. Since it needs a full range i can either turn the crossover for sub off on the deck OR i can choose the highest crossover point on the deck for the sub which is 200hz. Is 200hz high enough of a signal for the epicenter to work? if not, then if i turn the low pass filter for the sub OFF on the deck then i have no idea what range that goes up to or if it becomes full range or not. The other option is to run the REAR channel from deck to epicenter then out to mono amp. For sure , if i do it this way i can turn the low pass for rear channel off and it will give me a full range. So whats the correct way to do this? thanks for the help
  4. I got 2 subs and they need to be wired up together. 8g will be too big. 12 maybe..if not 14g. That should be ok i believe
  5. Thanks everyone for your responses. I too was thinking it was way too thin. Like there was maybe only 15 strands or so.. Perhaps it was used out of me. Anyways, Im going to swap it out for 12 to 14g and see what happens.
  6. My buddy used 18g pure copper wire to hook up to 2 jl 12w7s 1000rms each sub and connected it to a 2400rms amp running at 1.5 ohms. The wire was so thin but he assured me its ok and plus its pure copper so it is better than regular speaker wire So..the result was meh from the subs..trying to eliminate possible reasons why they didnt perform could be cuz they were in a sealed box or it could be because the 18g wire is too thin not enough strands so not enough wattage is being carried over.. Would like some opinions on this. Is the 18g wire def a no go and prob causing the lack of performance? Thanks
  7. k thanks ill add a divider. it will act as a brace and i need one so i guess its a good idea to use it
  8. thanks guys.. with my max dimensions im able to JUST perfectly give the subs what they need. They require 2.75 net after all displacements.. and i come up at 2.74 but this is WITHOUT a divider in the middle.. so if i were to add a divider in the middle , that would be another displacement but i dont know how to calculate that displacement.. maybe you can give me a rough estimate? my box is 32 wide x 13.5 high x 16.5 deep, 2 subs each .14 displacement. each sub needs 1.375 net entering in these dimensions into torres and using a double baffle i get 2.74net but i dont know how to calculate the divider displacement..
  9. as title states, i have 2 questions regarding sealed enclosures 1) I know that lining the enclosure with polyfil helps with sound and makes the subs think they are in a bigger enclosure than they really are BUT, if you have ample enough room to build an enclosure that gives the subs their optimal net space required for a sealed box, is the polyfil still necessary or does it serve no purpose at that point? i think i did read once somewhere that even if there is enough space in the box that polyfil should still be added as it helps with the sound in some way.. can someone elaborate on this? 2) when using 2 or more subs, i know using a divider for each sub will be safer because if one blows the other will be safe vs if they are in the shared space if one blows then the other will prob blow as well as the single sub would now be in a too big of airspace and will bottom out. But again, I did read somewhere that using NO divider has another benefit.. i forgot what it was.. can someone elaborate on this as well? Thanks
  10. You should have never posted in the first place loser. You just wasted your time for nothing. I guess u have no life. Well done. You didnt contribute shit except whine moan and make false assumptions. Now on the other hand, look at dibo. Thats a proper contribution. One post straight to the point. Simple. Straight forward. You could really learn a thing or two from him.
  11. Damn 11.8v and thats st 1ohm prob around 2500rms? Ya id prob dip down to low 12s in that case as i have a decent stock alt 110amp and 2 agms..i wish i could get a ho alt but very hard to find one for my car as no one has fabricated a new housing for it as the demand is not great enough to warrant it..thats the reason i have been told by all the top alt makers..
  12. Dude stfu u r so annoying all u r doing is coming here to complain and moan..jusy stop posting. Thats all you been doing since the beginning. I rather u just not post anything if its not contributing to answering my question. As for the video i did not watch the entire thjng i usually just watch the end where he has the paper with all results written down. I am busy so i dony have time to watch enture videos all the time. In this case i just watched the end part.
  13. Perfect. Thanks for the info dibo. Since i am running stock alt and 2 agms would u say the first xtr model that dynos a little lower would be a better choice since its a lower amp draw that my electrical can handle better than the dz line? Unless..they managed to make the dz line pull less current but do slightly bigger other words, unless the dz 2500 is more efficient than the 2500d
  14. I called orion yesterday and tech guy not available.then i came here. I got a chance at getting the older model at a good price but need to buy asap if i want that price. So before i do i want to make sure its worth it or not or if i should hold up and get the new dz modelv nstead.