MECHMAN
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Posts posted by MECHMAN
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Well, we have a couple more Powermaster chargers and D1000 batteries that we can clearance out now. They are all in brand-new condition, some have been used as displays, some have been in an SPL van for a very short period of time. Please E-mail me at: [email protected] for faster response. (I can't get on the forum that often) You won't find these cheaper anywhere on the net, and are indistinguishable from brand-new. These sold out quick last time, so don't wait!
The chargers will do 12 volt or 16 volt batteries, and are fully automated- best chargers I've ever used. They are marked down from $299 to only -$179- clearance price
The Batteries are marked down from $259 to only -$155- clearance price
You can also call me at: 1-888-MECHMAN
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Bump, I sent you all PM's. I only have a few of these left, so if you want a good deal you bettery get them while you can. Again, for faster response -
-------------- PLEASE SEND E-MAIL --------------------
Thanks
Matt
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dear God this is sooooo tempting..
do you by chance have a direct bolt on for a 97 Explorer 4.0L SOHC??
All I would need to do is swap the front cover and one of the clearance units would fit. I could do it for you for $249 shipped.
I won't be on the forum untill monday, but I get e-mail on my phone. Contact me at: [email protected] .
Thanks
Matt
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88 Bronco II
V-Belt Style.
The 3 G would bolt right in with just minor bracket modification. I would include the correct pulley and plug so it would be an easy install.
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3G Small Case by any chance?
I have 3G large case, which is often interchangable with the right drive-end on it. What type of vehicle do you have?
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I have some Ford 3G, 4G and 6G high output large case units that I have been authorized to clearance out. Some are powdercoated black, some are chrome plated, and some are cast aluminum finsh. They all produce 200+
amps with a minimum of 125 amps at idle, and I have cases to fit Explorer, Excursion, Expedition, Navigator, Aviator, F series Ford trucks, Crown Victoria, Lincolns, Aerostar, etc... These normally range from $349 to $499, but we are blowing them out for $199 shipped to the continental 48 states.
This is a no-B.S. killer deal for brand new, high output units with a warranty. Feel free to e-mail me at: [email protected], or call me at: 1888-MECHMAN for fastest response. Once they are gone, their gone.
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what model Kinetik do u compare to
It is comperable in size and performance to an HC2000 Kinetik.
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$90 for a brand new AGM 100AH battery, come on people...
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A HO output alternator would be a great help, but will be around $500 for something with good idle output. Adding another AGM battery in the trunk would litteraly only take minutes to install, and would be the cheapest/easiest solution. An MLA module wouldn't hurt either.
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Bump for lower price
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Many alternators just require a single "turn on wire", or you can just use an aftermarket one wire alternator for the sccond unit, and it will turn itself on and off.
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I got two 17si large case alternators for your old skool GM vehicle on clearance for CHEAP.
Chrome 170 amp (90 at idle) $199 (normaly $349)
Black 170 amp (90 at idle) $149 (normaly $299)
These are a large case conversion that pretty much bolt right in (you just have to tweak the bracket 3/8") to almost any 1965 through 1985 full size Chevy, Oldsomobile, Pontiac, Cadillac, Buick car or truck. It comes with an adapter plug, so it will work with internally or externally regulated alternators. These are pretty much the biggest alt you can run with a single v-belt pulley, and because they are a larger case, they last forever and have great output at idle. Holler!
1-888-MECHMAN
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12" LONG, 7" WIDE, 8" TALL.
$25 shipping.
Thanks
Matt
I can't believe nobody has jumped on this. This would be a killer battery upgrade for someone on a budget.
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I agree... A second stocker would work good, as well as a smaller pulley. Either way, I'd hook up with the missinglink guys on here and get a module. That should help quite a bit as well.
Your stock alt is a 105 amp CS130D. (about 70 at idle) A seccond alternator would definitely fix your problem, but a simple pulley change might be enough. If you would like a price quote on an inexpensive overdrive pulley, PM me. Otherwise, a seccond alt would definitely fix it if you don't mind spending the time/money to build a bracket.
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A couple of things to think about:
1) Incandescent lamps are very sensitive to voltage. A small change in voltage can make a noticable change in light output. You may be "seeing" a .6 volt swing.
2) The OEM electrical system is a skimpy as they can make it. The wire that feeds the entire dash & interior may only be 12 gauge. Since the window motors can draw 20 amps when they stall, you will see some dimming. The factory knows the window load is a short term load, and allows the wiring harness to be "overloaded" for short periods. They save 75 cents per car in copper... multiplied by millions of cars.
You should check your OEM power connections to be sure they are clean & in good shape.
Check the system voltage inside the car, on the OEM bus. Use the lighter socket, and measure the voltage with your DMM. Then roll the windows up and watch the meter...
'Link
x2.
If your voltage is at 14.1 at all RPMs, there isn't an amperage deficiency. It is more likely a wiring or ground difficiency for the window motors. Those things draw quite a bit you know... (often more than 20 amps each)
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2 things could possibly be the issue:
(1) Get a DMM and first check to see if the alt is putting out the proper amount of voltage (I idle @ 14.5v, and 1800+RPM's im at 14.8ish) Your alt might not be putting out anything, so you might be running off striaght battery 12.6v, if so NOT GOOD!
(2) Some high amp alts (200+AMPS) dont put out much at an idle speed (Some do, and some dont) so try this: Hold a steady rev of about 1500-2000rpm and try your light to see if they still dimm, if they still do, I think your issue may be what I stated in #1..... Also check the obvious....Fuses, fusible links, etc.....
Yup, check the voltage at idle. It could be low to start with, or the higher voltage at idle might just make the headlight dimming more pronounced. A DMM voltage measurment at the battery will tell the story.
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The two systems are not cross-compatible. Both systems receive a modulated signal back from the regulator, but that does not mean that the signal is the same.
The PCM provides a PWM signal on the regulator input, and reads the field duty cycle as well as system voltage to adjust charging with the DR44G alternator.
Your older AD244 is managed in a similar fashion, but the old regulator still has the capability to run without feedback - that is why you could make it start with a jumper to B+ ( I strongly recomend a current limiting resistor in that jumper circuit!)
Why are you installing an older, non-compatible alternator in your 2007?
'Link
x2
It's not going to work corectly. It's the same price for a 2-pin unit, why not just install the correct alternator?
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dimention and price shipped to 37217 ???
12" LONG, 7" WIDE, 8" TALL.
$25 shipping.
Thanks
Matt
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Bump.
This battery is brand new, and will kick the crap out of an optima for way less money.
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You just ran the battery dead, plain and simple.
You should never use power accessories (like the radio) for more than a few minutes with the car off. Jumpstarting a dead batteries and letting the engine run is very hard on your alternator, and can easily burn one up if the battery is big enough.
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I have one of these left. It is a Powersonic AGM sealed battery, and works very well for audio systems. It is comperable to a Deka or Kinetik group 27 battery. (100AH) We were selling these for $259, but I will blow this last one out for $90 + shipping.
It weighs 75 lbs, and is comperable in performance to to group 51 optimas. Great battery for the money!
holler
1-888-MECHMAN
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in that case then you should be okay until you add another battery or two in the back
Just monitor the voltage when you are playing the system, don't run it below 12.8 for extended periods.
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its all good, maybe it could be a case of "i got me a 300a alternator now i can bump my 10,000 watt system all day!".......you know when even with a 300a you still dont have enough, but its even worse if you do that shit at idle on one of those :D
haha, true dat.
:D
Too Much Alt?
in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
Posted
ou can't have too much amperage. The voltage that the alternator produces it's current at will be controlled by the regulator. Sometimes the regulator will change the charge voltage based on it "sense" input.
The bottom line it, as long as the voltage setpoint in not set too high for the batteries you are running, or any of the equipment on the vehicle, you will be fine. Most vehicles can handle low 15 volt charging voltages without any problems. Amperage is not an issue, as the alternator will only produce as much current is as needed to keep the battery at the voltage setpoint.