Jump to content

MECHMAN

SMD PARTNER
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    3018

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    6

 Content Type 

Posts posted by MECHMAN

  1. Rate Your Aftermarket Alternator

    in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring

    Posted

    well duhh, of course if its built like shit.....but ive never seen someone make a 300a alt with generic parts....my Alt guy doesnt. Theres probably some out there, but who would take the time to build one that big and use a regulator that couldnt handle it? thats retarded and it wouldnt keep you in business very long....

    put it this way, a well built 300a alternator (internally regulated or not) should last every bit as long as any other alternator.

    I agree, I was merely speculating as to why he has heard that HO alt internal regulators go out.

    It doesn't make sense to me either, but you would be surprised how often someone's "high output" alternator comes through my door with a stock POS transpo regulator in it. Usually though, they don't fail because it has a stock rotor in it. Most little local alternator rebuilding shops stock WAI and Transpo brand components because they are cheap and easy to get, but they arn't really up to the task of higher output stuff.

  3. Rate Your Aftermarket Alternator

    in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring

    Posted

    talkin to WHO at shows? i listen to people, i still never heard this. I mean HO alts will go out for whatever reason but its not because one is over 200a internally regulated. Its more user error IMO...like i said, if your runnin around bumpin your beat with a bunch of batterys and you never charge them with a charger, you are asking for trouble. Even with 4 alts, 3 of them 380's, i still charge my truck at least once a week just to keep the batteries fresh.

    Often times to get more than 200 amps with any kind of decent idle output, a "hotter" custom rotor needs to be used, which can draw a lot more amperage. The rotor current draw (up to 12 amps in some cases) has to be carried by the regulator. Most stock internal regulators (and cheap aftermarket pieces) can only carry 6-8 amps before they pop. There are many heavy-duty internal regulators available capable of carrying the additional rotor draw, so it really depends on what the builder is using for a rotor and regulator combination. - this is one possible explaination of the regulator failure the CRX guy is talking about.

    Another possible explaination is that a 200+ amp alternator is going to generate more heat. An internal regulator is mounted in the alternator, and therefore endures the same temperatures of the alternator. Typically, we never have a heat or rotor related regulator failure, because of the regulators that we use. -it all just depends on what a builder is using inside the alternator. An external regulator is not necessary with a well-built alternator, but it certainly has it's advantages.

    ...just a little FYI.

  11. What Settings For Charging My Batts?

    in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring

    Posted

    45921590.popcorn.gif

    I really think that mechman, and this new team member basebalz are some douchebags!

    Im really waiting for this mechman alternator to be build for dudes couger, I want to laugh when the alt fails like the 6 plus that Dom had built for this guy.

    But hey us at team mechman claim that alternators put out watts and not amps!

    Lets think of why alts fail, dude claims to have a battery bank, then on someother site he posts that he runs one battery with an american bass 500.1 that draws well over 500 amps (from one battery and a 300 amp alt)

    Then we claim that charging near dead or half dead batteries will not kill a alternator...

    After all Irragi uses plastic fans that are superglued into or onto the alternators?!?!?

    Yup, douchbags.

    See ya!

    Oh yea guys, MLA products are proven to work, and are SMD approved.

    Mechman = ___________? you guys can fill in the blank

    PS: mechman, team mechman whatever you call yourself, I hope you got a comeback more then saying I build lame walls that dont perform, or applying that Im gay because I back Irragi's products.

    I don't think that you are lame because you back Irragi products, I think you are lame because you started trashing up my personal for-sale thread, and because you are trying to associate my company with posts put up by my customers. That is like saying that Chevrolet makes bad products becasue a guy that I don't like drives a chevy.

    I don't bash MLA products, and I didn't bash Kinetik batteries anywhere in my post. I was merely replying to a question from one of MY customers, and I simply disagree that it is good to charge a 12V AGM battery on the 16V setting of a Powermaster battery charger, and I backed everything I said up with factual scientific information.

    Mechman = Dozens of satisfied SMD member customers, and an excellent customer service reputation.

  12. What Settings For Charging My Batts?

    in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring

    Posted

    Reading is fundamental. "Full charge in 78 hours" Sure, you could park your car for 3+ days a week to bring the batteries up...

    Those charge cycles represent battery usage in a dead loss application like a trolling motor, where the battery is depleted then recharged completely. In that sort of application a long slow charge is just fine.

    What Chris is saying is that the Kinetik batteries will take a higher voltage over a shorter period of time just fine. ALL batteries release some gas while charging. AGM batteries are "Recombinant", which means that they are designed to re-combine the liberated hydrogen & oxygen into water, and return it to the cell. Gassing during charging is normal, and as long as you keep the charge rate below 1/5c, everything should be fine.

    'Link

    I agree with the theory of your statement in that time is a part of the equation, but you are proving my point with your own statement:

    Yes AGM batteries are recombinant, but the liberated gasses need to be INSIDE the case of the battery to recombine. The hissing noise that your hear when an AGM battery is gassing, is those gasses escaping out the case's one-way vent valve, never to return. Go through enough charging cycles that way, and much of your electrolyte (and battery capacity) has flown the coop.

    I'm not saying that you can't whack an AGM battery with 15.8 volts for a few minutes without damaging it, but charging a 12V battery on the 16V setting ABSOLUTELY will provide a balloon like battery case and a 65lb paperweight. I've personally seen it occur from accidentally setting it on 16V mode many times.

    And you're right, reading is fundamental, it says 8 hours from full discharge to full charge at 14.5 "boost" mode. (not 72 hours) I'm not trying to start a pissing contest here, I'm sure you do charge your batteries at a higher rate, but you might be surprised how much of your battery capacity may have been lost, depending on charge tempurature and duration of charging at that voltage/amperage. Not to mention, if I recal you have quite a number of batteries in your vehicle, which is going to spread out the 300 amps of charge current amongst all of them. I am merely speaking from personal expieriece of what gets brought back to me for warranty and why. I've had numerous conversations with Scotty Johnson, head of engineering at Powermaster batteries, and he has provided me with a wealth of information, all sourced from reputable publications within the battery industry. You could call up Rich at Kinetik, and I'm sure he would advise you not to charge Kinetik batteries above 15 volts (for more than a few minutes) either.

  14. What Settings For Charging My Batts?

    in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring

    Posted

    For realz don't worry about the kinetic getting "overcharged" or "gased" thats :bsflag: @ 14.8 volts.

    Mine charge with 2 alts (@ 300amps) and at 15.8volts alot more than 25 amps @ 14.8v without a single problem for a year now. If you want full charge on that kinetic you will need to charge it on the 16v cycle for while. Do a couple cycles of 5 hours or so and you will see how much power you get from a kinetic when it is fully charged. Resting voltage should be around 13.3v for the kinetic so by only giving it 14.8v it will never reach the recommended level of charge per cell!!! Test resting voltage a few hours after its been off the charger so the "surface charge" will fade away to reveal a more accurate settled resting voltage.

    MLA

    Oh, my bad. I guess Kinetik and Powermaster didn't know what they were doing when they designed their battery chargers. I just do what the directions say in case I ever have to warranty one. Here's a quote from the kinetik powersupply/charger instruction manual: http://www.kinetikaudio.com/downloads.asp

    "GENERAL INFORMATION

    Kinetik Intelligent 120 VAC to 12 VDC Power Converters are state-of-the-art

    electronic converters / battery chargers. Their compact size and quiet operation

    gives greater flexibility in selecting the mounting locaiton for either OEM installation

    or after market replacement.

    The Kinetik Intelligent Power Converters have a computer controlled charging

    module built in. This is a microprocessor-controlled device which constantly

    monitors the battery, and then automatically adjusts the converter output voltage

    based on its charge status. There are four (4) operating Modes (NORMAL,

    BOOST, STORAGE and DESULFATION/EQUALIZE). Each mode is automatically

    selected by the microprocessor and ensures a fast yet safe recharge for

    your battery. See the chart below for details.

    The chart below shows the amount of time it took a converter set to three different

    output voltages to recharge a 125Ah (Amp Hour) battery after it was discharged

    to 10.5 volts.

    GENERAL INFORMATION (continued...)

    14.4 Volts (Boost Mode)

    Returned the battery to 90% of full charge in approximately 8 hours. The battery

    reached full charge in approximately 11 hours.

    13.6 Volts (Normal Mode)

    Required 40 hours to return the battery to 90% of full charge and 78 hours to

    reach full charge.

    13.2 Volts (Storage Mode)

    Required 60 hours to return the battery to 90% of full charge and 100 hours to

    reach full charge.

    The integrated intelligent microprocessors ability to change the output voltage of the converter will

    significantly reduce the amount of time it takes to recharge your battery. The lower voltage for Storage

    mode prevents gassing and reduces water loss during long-term storage.

    GENERAL OPERATION

    The Kinetik Intelligent Power Converters will supply “clean” nominal 13.6 VDC

    (Normal Mode) power from input voltages that range from 90-130 VAC.

    The Kinetik Intelligent Power Converters are primarily designed for use with a

    battery, however, the output of the Kinetik converters are a regulated, filtered

    D.C. voltage that can power sensitive electronics without the need for a battery or

    other filtering.

    NOTICE

    At normal input voltages the full load rated capacity is available. At input voltages

    less than 105 VAC the converter may not supply full rated output capacity.

    The full rated load is available for load, battery charging or both. When functioning as a regulated

    battery charger, the Kinetik converters have a nominal voltage output of 13.6 VDC. The system was

    designed to sense voltage on the battery and automatically selects one of 4 operating modes (normal,

    boost, storage and desulfation/equalization) to provide the correct charge level to the batteries.

    NORMAL MODE: Output voltage set at 13.6 volts DC. This voltage provides

    good charging rates and low water usage.

    BOOST MODE: If the converter senses that the battery voltage has dropped

    below a preset level the output voltage is increased to 14.4 volts DC to rapidly

    recharge the batteries.STORAGE MODE: When the converter senses that there has been no significant

    battery usage for approximately 30 hours the output voltage is reduced to

    13.2 volts DC for minimal water usage.

    DESULFATION/EUALIZATION MODE: When in storage mode the microprocessor

    automatically increases the output voltage to 14.4 volts for 15 minutes every

    21 hours to reduce the buildup of sulfation on the battery plates."

  18. Alternator Size?

    in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring

    Posted

    A high output 6G could be built, but you should be wary of anyone that claims more than 200 amps from that case. Once you go past 200 amps, the alternator will have poor output at idle, and will run very hot. A n upgrade to 150 amps or so is much more reasonable for a daily driver.

    'Link

    Very true statement, unless the alternator builder happens to be the only company who has spec'd out lower impedance rotors and regulators capable of supporting them. If that were the case, 150 amps at idle is a piece of cake at 260 amps peak... ;)

  20. Battery Chargers (12v And 16v)

    in For Sale: Car audio related equipment only

    Posted

    I have a few Powermaster battery chargers that I am going to let go. These are the top of the line 1005 chargers that will charge any battery, flooded, AGM, 12 volt, 16 volt, whatever. These are totally automatic, and are definitely the nicest chargers I've ever used; just hook them up to your ride and they will automatically charge or maintain your batteries for as long as you want. These have just been used around the shop to maintain our in stock batteries, and they are in BRAND NEW condition. They are less than a year old, so they are still under warranty through Powermaster. These are $300 anywhere on the web, I'm letting them go for $179 shipped Anyone that plays with car audio should have a good battery charger. I've even brought back customer's batteries that tested bad to a usable state with these chargers! We take PayPal, credit or debit cards. Holler at me: 1-888-MECHMAN

    1005.gif

  24. Spinning The Right Way?

    in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring

    Posted

    That is a high efficiency swept blade turbo fan, it moves about 15% more air than a traditional baffled straight blade fan. When designing the profile of that fan, we paid an outside lab for airflow analysis. Running that fan backwards decreases airflow through the back rectifier opening by almost 20%, which can definitely be an issue on a 250 amp alternator. Just make sure you don't run it maxed out for more than short periods at one setting wihtout unloading it and giving it a chance to cool. We will always warranty a burnt stator once, even if it was clearly from abuse. The rectifiers we use will NOT burn up from heat, I've tried to fail them intentionally and have not been able to.

×
×
  • Create New...