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MECHMAN

SMD PARTNER
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Posts posted by MECHMAN

  1. It could also have been the stator connections to the pos and neg diodes inside the alt.

    Considering that they are soldered rectifier connections on a 4G Ford, that is likely not the case. (it not like an SI or CS where there could be loose nuts on the stator leads) We use solder with a melting temp of 450+ degrees, and at that point the stator laquer and insulator sleeves will be smoking like crazy. Thanks fot the input though.

  2. I ordered a 200 Amp for my Exploder and it looked great but when I installed it it was only charging at 12 volts. I called up DB and they said sorry and troubleshot on the phone but nothing worked. I was like shit I got crap and then the due at DB said "don't worry about it". So naturally I got kinda irritated and asked what do you mean don't worry about it? Point being they overnighted me a new one and upped it to a 220 amp at no charge and it went in and works perfectly. Turns out the post on the original was broke where it connects inside the alternator. With that being said, he guys up there at DB were really cool and I wouldn't hesitate to say go ahead and buy from them.

    In order to produce and sell alternators that cheap, corners have to be cut. Not to say that it is a bad product per say, but low voltage at idle is typically a result of low amperage at idle. This comes from using a "hotter" stator, and an OE (cheap) rotor. Having custom rotors wound is not cheap, nor is having custom regulators built to handle the beefy custom rotor. Anyone can slam a $25 stator into a stock alternator and get 200 amps, but it takes a little more engineering to get good low RPM output- something to consider when shopping for alternators.

  3. Sounds like a smoked stator. Usually this is caused by depleating battery too far, then starting the vehicle. It can also be casued by poor connections on the ground or positive alternator cable.

    Where is the alternator grounded?

    Where does the positive cable run?

    What size are the cables used?

    Did you use the ring terminals provided in the kit?

    How many watts?

    How many batteries?

    What was the lowest battery voltge that you encountered?

    BTW, the alternator is most likely damaged, and you are just driving around on battery power, that is why your voltage is 12.2 volts. Give me a call or PM me so we can get you an RMA # for repair.

  4. yea but you underestimate how tight they cram the alts in the acuras i highly doubt itll fight long ways and i prolly wont be able to make up for the slack to tighten up the belt.

    You will need to buy a 1/2" shorter belt to get enough tension on it.

    I am fully aware of how tight it is on those cars, we have a kit that puts a late model large-case unit in that spot; it can be done. :drinks:

  5. yea the alt is the same size but the rib count on new one is 5 and the original is 4. ima wait till i get in touch with him tomorrow before i swap pullys over.

    It is fine, leave the 5 rib pulley on. Dom probably puts the 5 rib pulley on because he doesn't have access to a smaller diameter 4 rib pulley. It needs to be smaller diameter than the stock pulley to get the low RPM output up. If you put the stock larger diameter 4 rib pulley on that alternator, it would kill the low RPM output.

    It doesn't hurn anything to have more ribs on the pulley than on the belt. The belt will just run on the inside 4 ribs of the 5 rib pulley.

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