MECHMAN
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Posts posted by MECHMAN
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I built that unit with a custom "1 wire" type digital regulator. It does not need any of the pins connected for it to charge normally, it turns itself on automatically once it starts spinning. All you need to hook up it a 1/0 charge cable, and a 1/0 ground cable to the suplemental grounding lug that we installed in the case.
For the sake of learning, though-
A stock CS type GM regulator has 4 pins. One pin is slightly larger than the other 3 pins. On a stock regulator, they are labeled: P-L-F-S.
In order to "excite" or "turn-on" the alternator, you need to take a keyed 12 positive wire, run it through a 47ohm resistor, and connect it to the "L" terminal on the regulator plug. The purpose of the 47ohm resistor, is to simulate the resistance of an indicator light, and reduce the voltage going to the "L" terminal. Runing a full 12 volts to the "L" terminal can burn out the regulatotor. Most vehicles already have an indicator light circuit. If that wire is used, then the resistor is not necessary because the indicator light acts as a resistor. Hope that helps.
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its white like old...like idk how to say it...or like u said "WHITE AS IN CROSSION".....
The corrosion is preventing the current from getting to the starter. A starter motor is the highest draw in the vehicle, (up to 500 amps sometimes) and will often be the only thing that doesn't work well (everything else electrical on the vehicle will still work OK)
Clean off all of the corrosion with a wire brush, then in stall new, clean battery cables and ground straps and it will start like new.
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Is it possible for you to make it a direct bolt-in for an 2007 Tahoe/Suburban? If so then I'm intrested. Also did the quoted price include shipping cost?
Yes, I can do the 2007 Tahoe for $349 shipped, but it won't have an external fan anymore, the Tahoe has to have an internal fan. Let me know!
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One unit SOLD.
I still have the other one left. I will change over the case so that it is a direct bolt-in for 1996-2006 Tahoes, Silverados, Escalades, etc... for no additional charge.
Bump.
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A 200 amp alt (minimum) should do you fine. With an MLA installed, it should be even better. But if you can, invest in the largest possible alternator that can fit. Never hurts to have more than you need
250 amp alt and one high-quality battery would be fine.
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One unit SOLD.
I still have the other one left. I will change over the case so that it is a direct bolt-in for 1996-2006 Tahoes, Silverados, Escalades, etc... for no additional charge.
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No big deal guys, I sent you all PM's. Thanks!
Bump.
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Wow! Didn't know it was that serious and I need no instructions on how to contact people from overseas as I've been overseas since 2000. I will make an effort to PM any questions I have in the future so I don't start any internet beef...
No big deal guys, I sent you all PM's. Thanks!
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made for what vehicle??
These are a direct bolt in for 90's Cadillacs, Caprices, Roadmasters, and all the old-school GM cars and trucks. We also have brackets to mount them on virtually anything, but the bracket would be a little extra.
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I have two custom MechMan high output alternators here that we built for a customer that flaked out. They are both identical, and are basically our 250 amp StreetBeater series alts with a bunch of custom upgrades. Here are the specs:
250 amps, 150 at idle. (they each include their own dyno-sheet)
Extra heavy duty rectifier w/ press fit diodes for longevity (for constant duty use)
Custom machined rear housing and extra heavy duty digital regulator w/ oversize heat sinks
Charge Voltage set at 15.0 volts
Solid polished billet aluminum fan for better cooling
Polished overdrive pulley and nose cone
Stainless steel ball burnished finish for anti-corrosion
Extra large charge and ground studs for 1/0 big 3 upgrade
These are basically optioned out as far as we can go for reliability in BIG street systems. If necessary, I can change the voltage setpoint for the buyer, but I would leave it at 15.0 if you plan on running a 12 volt battery. These were invoiced at $499 each, but I will let them go for $349 shipped or $649 shipped for the pair. Holler if you have any questions! 1-888-MECHMAN
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upgrade to a 220a alt or higher and you should be fine, but in this case... anything over 150a alt would HELP
+1
A bigger alternator is really the only proper solution. A battery would help, but would just be a band-aid fix.
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check these guys out http://www.db-starter-alternator.com/Items...%2005%20%208306
i just got one for my 98 chevy and received it in under a week.
You have a PM loganberry
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I'm pretty close to 24 hours with this thing powered up and its running flawlessly.
I think I could actually just use home-made power supplys to do what I want to do. I'm going to use an MA HK4000D and 2 16 volt powermaster bats built into the 3 15 sub enclosure. I'm going to build it so it looks like a console table. Should fill up the living room pretty well, LOL.
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I got a brand new stock 140.
250.00
Stock output is 130 amps.
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good to hear, i'll be ordering shortly
and pmed you back mechman
Thanks! Shipped it today.
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Now that will be funny.
The main reason I wanted it is becuase I got tired of taking my vehicles apart to test different amps.
If you do use it in a dorm please read up on power consumption as this particular PS will pull alot of current from your resepticle.
A bare minimum of a dedicated 20 amp circuit is needed and I still highly recommend a 30 amp circuit.
This thing is actually more of a tool than a toy.
I wouldn't mind having one of those to build a 3 x 15" subwoofer my home theatre. It will only do 80 amps continuous? I guess you could buffer that with a couple batteries.
Does it have adjustable voltage output?
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Ford Solenoids are not designed for continuous current duty, but work well for short high current passage - like say, starting a vehicle. We offer both a 80A and 200A solenoid designed for continuous duty in our Install Edge brand - these have been designed for this. (Part numbers are IECS80 and IECS200.)
In regards to your return path question, I've always used the frame as the return path for the under hood battery, case of the alternator, auxiliary battery(s), and amplifiers. Pick one side of the frame, and reference all grounds to it. The frame of a typical truck has far lower resistance than any cable that you could run along side it. In the case of a uni-body vehicle, it doesn't hurt to connect the front and rear frame rails together electrically with a piece of 1/0 (or two) - only necessary on your chosen side. This will provide you with the lowest resistance return path possible.
Equally as important are the integrity of the connections between the wire and ring terminals and between the ring terminals and frame rails. See the post Steve put in this section about soldering large AWG wires:
When connecting to the frame, I like to use an existing hole. I'll tap it if necessary (taps are CHEAP), grind the paint, use a star washer to get a good long term bite, and use lithium grease to prevent it from rusting. Then, you need to check these connections once every six months or so to be sure they haven't worked their way even a little bit loose.
Good luck!
Snafy is right, the Ford solenoids are not designed for continuous-closed use, and will burn up in a short period.
Frame rails work well for grounding, on unibody cars we just run a 1/0 copper cable because it's faster than connecting frame rails and has fewer connections. Either method will provide very low resistance.
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whatever the difference in price is in shipping ur paying for:
16 more aH
~150 max crank amps
and a tiny bit mroe reserve
so if you want to pay more for kinetik thats what you'll get for the extra $
In our SPL testing the Powermaster's maintained higher voltage than the Kinetiks, that's why we carry Powermaster at the shop. Posts are purchased seperately for the PM battery, But I would use ring terminals and the provided bolt anyway, they work better than a post and clamp.
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i havent used a fues in my Big3 on both my cars......as long as you do it right its not needed
A fuse is not needed, but you can use a 250amp fuse if you want.
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Thats what i thought to thax man.
You will need to run it to a switched 12V source, otherwise it will stay on all the time, and could eventually run your battery(s) down. Any cicuit on your fusebox that is hot only when the key is in the "on" position will work fine.
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Seriously!!! You need to pm missing link audio about this. They have their own section here in the forum. They are phenominal when it comes to electrical. They probably are not awake yet, but pm them about the whole thing, and be patient. They will hit you back same day on the pm and it will be a very experienced, very mathmatical, and very precise explanation of your needs. They are awesome. You need to contact them. Don't get me wrong, many people on here can give you great advice, and I will not knock anyone on here, but missing link does electrical for a living. Hit them up!!!! And their modules do wonders. Just an fyi on the module. And the hc 2400's are kick arse, and I can't knock powermaster d3100's. Meade uses them for a reason.
Size for size the Powermaster's are the way to go. If you check the specs, size-for-size the Powermaster batteries weigh more. That is why they have more ouput. 2 D3100's would work fine for what you are doing.
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The votlage is different because Kinetiks are AGM batteries. The resting voltage of an AGM battery is usually around 13.1V, wheras a flooded type battery (like your duralast) rests at around 12.6v. This doesn't cause a problem persay, but your resting voltage will never be as high as if you were to run all AGM batteries.
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What type of vehicle is it? You might be able to get a Powermaster under the hood.
That truck uses a group 59 battery, deminsions 10.24" x 7.8" x 7.8" tall.
A D2400 is 10.24" x 6.65" x 8.31" tall. Really, a D2400 should fall right in the stock location, it's the same deminsions, just half an inch taller.
Is Getting Two Hc800 For My Accord A Good Idea?
in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
Posted
I would just leave your yellow top up front (assuming its in good condition) and put a D1200 in the back. Both batteries are AGM, and have almost identical resting voltages; they work fine together. There is no need to discard a good battery (the yellow top) that you've already paid for.
I could try to sell you two batteries, but the honest truth is that one D1200 in back would work perfectly. It's $180 shipped- that's a lot cheaper than two HC800's.