MECHMAN
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Posts posted by MECHMAN
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The alternator with the finned rear cover is a externally regulated 340 amp.. As for the other alternator with the black rear cover It could either be a 240 or a 270 amp G series
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We are very sorry that the original poster received the wrong alternator, that was our mistake. We shipped the item via the same method of shipping that the customer specified on the website, the only reason it was $101 is because the customer is in Hawaii, and that is what the automatic shipping calculator on our online store came up with. Had the customer placed the order over the phone when we originally spoke with him, the shipping probably would have been less, and we could have discussed lead times in depth. As for the package being delivered to the wrong address by the FedEx driver, we obviously have no control over that. The package was addressed to the address specified by the customer when he placed the order on our online store. Here is what we have done to attempt to make it right with the customer-
- Replacement correct unit shipped to the customer free of charge
-Customer is being refunded his $101 shipping charges
-Customer is being sent an adjustable voltage boost module at no additional charge
Hopefully this resolves the situation, as there is not much more that can be done on our end to help resolve the issue. I think it is also fair to point out that the customer was trying our product, because he couldn't get his Nations Electric alternators to last. This is not to say anything bad about Nations, but rather to point out that this vehicle is a commercial Taxi van that runs 24 hours a day with a fair amount of load in hot conditions, and has been through several alternators from another company. The customer's loads are potentially higher than what the alternator he purchased is rated to provide at idle, so it is not surprising that the voltage is low.
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If you have any questions about fitment or availability just give us a call 1-888-Mechman. One of our knowledgeable sales staff will be able to assist you with your purchase.
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If the alternator does not have a turn on signal will only cause the alternator to free spin only. It will not produce any power just free spinning..
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LOL!! Even the dog is impressed. Looks great clean install.
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That is the stator connection. We connect it internally. Just tie it up out of the way.
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Post in the electrical section and see if anyone has had any luck by passing it. Im not sure how you would by pass it unless you externally regulate the alternator
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Give us a call so we can set up a warranty claim for you ..
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unplug the alt? Isn't that dangerous?
EDIT: FWIW, Steve's IS-F, when running the box, had CELs go off (from reading his threads). Our cars electricals are VERY VERY similar, so I'm sure my CELs would go off too.
Is there any way around this? There HAS to be somehow!
no the alternator will be fine..Unplugging the alternator would only cause it to free spin.
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Unfortunately, we do not offer a direct fit alternator for your application.We do offer some compact universal alternators, but the installation of one of these units would of course require you to fabricate your own adapter bracket in order for the alternator to bolt in. Compact universal units are available in 170,240, and 320 amps. We can put whatever pulley on the unit that you require for your vehicle at no additional charge. These units feature our S series 6 phase hairpin stator technology for outstanding output at idle in a relatively small housing that is easy to fit to small engine compartments. You can learn more about the S series internals here: http://www.billetalternator.com/index.php/products/discover-the-6-phase-advantage.html
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So I recently bought a 240 amp alternator from Mechman Alternators for my 1998 GS300, now I have one problem. Every time my rpm's goes past 5k and I let off the gas my battery light comes on, I did not have this issue with my stock alternator. I have upgrade to 1/0 gauge KnuKonceptz Wire for my the Big 3 Three, although for my power run I have a 4 gauge run (I have no amplifiers yet, so I believe it won't draw the full the 240 amps but will pull stock load for now which is somewhere around 100 amps). I have copper lugs, an XS Power D3400, a new Goodyear Gatorback Belt, and also added an inline fuse. I have done everything that was asked and I still have a problem. Does anyone have any insight? I am wondering if it may have to do with the stock power wire being still connected and the fuse box being overloaded with power? I don't think that is the case, though not 100% sure, any information will help. I am also linking a video of the battery light coming on past 5k rpms.
We would be glad to have a look at the alternator. All you need to do is give us a call toll free so we can set you up with a return authorisation code to send it in for testing
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I'm sorry that you are upset. I checked all of our e-mail accounts thoroughly looking for the pictures that you sent, and did not see them anywhere. You mentioned that you posted some pictures in the thread, but they are not showing up either. Maybe whatever you are using to send pictures is not working properly?
In any case, we would be happy to sort out the issue for you. You can always just give us a call toll free, or you can just send us the AVBM II for warranty inspection. If there is anything wrong with it, we will of course replace it under warranty.
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were looking at picking up the mechman 375. were going to run two runs of 0 gauge (already have the wire dont sugguest 2/0
) to everything. now my question is ,on the runs from the alt to the battery should we run a 200 amp fuse per run? or larger? meaning a total of 400 amps of fusing on alt alone.IOM sounds like you are on the right track.
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The 98 shows a completely different part number for the 3.1 and the 3.8
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Vehicle: 2012 Toyota Camry (4cyl)
Alt 240A Mechman
Big 3
Xs Power Battery D3400
It is my understanding that the newer Toyota cars are voltage regulated by the PCM. Therefor, I can't change the fact my system doesn't charge where I want it to.
My voltage after idle down is 13.7
When driving around 1700-200rpm the voltage is 14.0
This is with no stereo running.
When lights are turned on the voltage drops and then immediately returns to normal. However, when I turn on the rear defrost, it drops to 13.3 and does not raise back up until I turn it off. To me this doesn't sound right. Am I wrong for thinking that?
In a perfect world I would like 14.4 or close to it to achieve optimal performance from my amps.
First i would look at the alternator to make sure there isn't any signs of belt slip. Then I would look at the battery (check the resting voltage) and cabling to make certain the connections are clean and tight. If neither one is the culprit I would suggest a AVBM which WILL work on that vehicle. The AVBM will give you adjustment capability from 14-16 Volts on the S-series alternator
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Can someone from here contact me ASAP , tryed emailing no response
Whats up ?
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The alternator is internally regulated. All it needs is 12v Turn on source to the yellow wire
Okay. Would it be okay to use a 12v relay as opposed to just tapping into a turn on source?
Yes that'll do.
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You should be able to get one from a tool supplier or radio shack may have one
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The alternator is internally regulated. All it needs is 12v Turn on source to the yellow wire
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Check the output with a amp clamp. The alternator should actually have higher output than what the alternator is rated for
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NICE!! thanks for the good word.
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We do have an AVBM (adjustable voltage boost module) for that vehicle Which would give you the adjustment from 14-16 volts
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Thank you for the good word. Be sure to post pics of the install
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Just give us a shout when you get ready for those batteries
) to everything. now my question is ,on the runs from the alt to the battery should we run a 200 amp fuse per run? or larger? meaning a total of 400 amps of fusing on alt alone.
Big three for 220 amp
in MechMan Alternators and 12v Accessories
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You can leave the factory grounds. We recommend to add a negative and positive from the alternator directly to the battery.