MECHMAN
-
Posts
3018 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
6
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Media Demo
Store
Collections
Videos
Posts posted by MECHMAN
-
-
ok. 2? each one hooked to a 4 channel and hk4000d?
You would just run all your batteries together in parallel. (conect all the positive terminals together, then connect all the negative terminals to ground)
I would start with one D3100 in the back and see how it does. That's an 80lb battery, the stoutest single battery we've ever tested. (that's why we don't sell optima anymore) I'd start with one and see how it does, you can always add more later.
-
Missing link pwned you all.
Just to clarify, I'm not arguing against Missinglink's module at all, I'm just expanding on their battery discussion-
That being said, I will point out that the 10 year old autozone battery is a flooded battery and can continuously be charged at roughly half a volt higher charge rate than the average AGM battery without being damaged. There is physically much less liquid electrolyte in an AGM battery. The acid is suspended in the fiberglass mats so that less electrolyte is necessary to have full plate coverage, which allows for more surface area in the same battery footprint- that's the advantage to the AGM design. Gassing will be very minimal in an AGM battery, except in overcharging situations. AGM batterys just have a smaller margin of error regarding overcharging, because it doesn't take very much of the electrolyte to be boiled out for the battery to start loosing plate coverage.
The Battery Council International is an independent regulatory and exploratory body regarding all types of batteries. They are not a battery manufacturer, and in the reports that they publish regarding testing and failure analysis, overcharging (classified as a charge voltage higher than 14.8 volts on a 6 cell AGM lead acid battery) was the #1 cause of AGM battery failure. This does not reflect testing performed by BCI, it is merely a statistical observation from contributed data to the council by it's members.
If anyone is looking to further their understanding regarding battery theory, there are severall E-books that have really good instructions on how to properly test and evaluate Lead/Acid batteries, available at www.batterycouncil.org . I think someone may have them stickied over on Termlab.com too.
-
I wouldn't charge any 12V AGM battery over 14.9 volts, it will cook the batteries over time. As long as you don't let your bank of batteries run down before you start the vehicle, you will be fine. I use a Powermaster charger to charge a bank of 10 batteries and it seems to work well.
-
dammit! now i have to pay more later down the road
Yeah, UPS shipping on a 3100... They weigh 82lbs, LOL. At least $50 in shipping.
-
h
hmmm ok well the car is a 04 xtreme blazer its the 4.3 vortec the 262 i believe. right now it has a 100amp stock alt? but im not sure on the alts. were going to make the bracket when i get them.. im not really sure how it works my dad is goign to do it all but do i have to run the extra alts. into the stock elec? i was wanting to run alot of runs of wire straight to a battery and keep it seperate is that possible? can you give me some examples on how to hook this stuff up from the alts. to the stuff you guys sell....
If you used our alternators for the auxilary setup, I would build them with a digital one wire regulator. You could just leave your stock alternator and battery to power the truck, and add the two extra one wire alternators and run them paralel to however many batteries you would like. That way, the subs would have their own independant alternators and batteries. Becasue they are one wire hookup, you don't have to modify anything on the truck, just run a 1/0 gauge cable from each alternator to the positive terminal of your batteries and your done. We could even set you up to run the subwoofer charging system at 16 volts. (if your amps are 16 volt compatible) That's how I have my truck set up.
MechMan
-
Pstone is right. I talked to Scottie a few months back and he told me that they would be going up so its best to buy now. That's why I bought two when I did.
Try and order one from Darvex, they don't have any in stock and will decline your order. Summit was only able to do $299 for that long because they bought so many. I'm a dealer for XSpower and I almost pay that much for them now
edited by Meade:
please use the for sale section if you want to sell your merchandise on my site
thanks!
-
SIGH...
Do i really need one? and if so where do i look to get one?
EVEN BIGGER SIGH
Sent you a PM
-
How would I fix an excited alternator but I will try that tonight
It could be that it has the wrong regulator in it and it is putting constant power to the L terminal of the alternator plug, or it could be a faulty alternator. No way to know untill you perform that test.
-
Well I did what you said with it on amps and nothing came up with the alternator but here's the twist I left the alt power wire in pluged and tested neg to neg and got a .27 then I plugged the alternator power wire in and test it again on negatives and got a .60
If your meter was set to amps, it is telling you that your alternator is drawing .6 amps with the car shut off. This is what i was talking about, the alternator is being excited when the key is in the off position, and that is what is killing your battery.
Try charging up the battery completely and disconecting the alternator. Let is sit overnight and see if the battery gets run down with the alternator disconnected.
-
If it's a Chevy they tend to have a low voltage at idle when they are first started.
They usually get up around 14.1 after a minute or two.
GM's have low voltage at idle. My alternators have a regulator modification to bring that up to 14.7.
-
When I get home I'm gonna go threw it better and are what happens
You are using the wrong measurement setting on the meter. It need to be set to "DC amps" , not "volts". On a lot of multimeters, you have to move the red test lead over to a different plug on the front of the multimeter that is fused. You can then test it like how you were going, (measuring between the ground cable and the negative terminal of the battery) and it will display how many amps are being drained from the battery.
You can use the same setting, and test to see if the alternator is draining the battery. (this can be possible with a regualtor that is bad or mis-wired) Hook up both battery cables like normal, then disconnect the alternator charge wire. Measure from the alternator charge wire and the positive terminal of the battery, and see if there is any current flowing with the key in the "off" position. If there is, the alternaor is faulty, or has the wrong regulator wiring.
hope that helps
MechMan
-
looks good i just hope you have a better experince with iraggi then me...
Find someone with a DC amp clamp and place it around the charge cable that goes from the alternator to the battery. Take this measurement with your system turned all the way up and you will see how many amps it is making at idle.
-
x2
You can easily convert an internally regulated alternator to external, and use an adjustable external regulator.
I don't know about your vehicle specifically, but I have run my 2001 Silverado at 16.0v for several weeks. Aside from drying out a couple 12v batteries, it didn't hurt anything on the truck.
-
been lookin into getting a deep cycle batt... took a look on kinetics site and they suggested the hc 1400. would i do better just replacing my starting battery or adding the deep cycle as a secondary
Assuming that your stock battery is in good condition, it would be better to keep it and add the seccond battery in parralel. That way you would get the capacity of both.
It sounds like your alternator is the problem, BTW. You can check it yourself. Just charge the battery with a battery charger for a few hours, then let it sit for a few hours to settle out. Take a meter and measure the battery voltage, it should be arround 12.8 volts. Then start the vehicle, and measure the voltage on the charge post of the alternator, the voltage should be 13.8 14.5 with the engine running and no electrical loads. If the voltage does not come up when you start the car, the alternator is not charging.
-
Either way, more voltage drop in the back then in the front means the power isn't transferring adequately which means more power wire to carry the current.
Sorry, I didn't see where mentioned a front - back voltage comparison.
-
What tests? His alts are Iraggis and even when sitting giving demos everyone revs the engine.
The voltage drop tests are what I was reffering to, but you answered my question when you said that your were reving the engine when you were measuring. They probably would be producing enough current to require more cabling at that point.
-
Yes I would do 5-6 runs to carry the current from 4 alternators. Definately at least 4 (I said minimum 1 per alt above).
1 run of 1/0 wire will only adequately carry 300a of current. 2 runs just ain't carrying the current from all 4 alts.
What RPM are you running these tests at? What kind of alternators are they?
-
well i speaking on adding grounds. i've got a + and - run of 1/0 in my truck. both are ran to my HC800 in the back, now my 1/0 run of - grounds my HC800. from there i have three amps will power up via a stinger 3 way distribution block (4 ga to each of the three amps). each of amp is grounded on the floor frame. when banging at full tilt i don't get much of a voltage drop. until i'm wanging it for quite some time (20-35 minutes straight) then i'll see it drop to around 12.9 and once i step on the gas it shoots right back up to 14.2.
That's an alternator problem. They just don't put out enough at idle. It takes 20-35 minutes for your batteries to drop, then when you rev the engine up, the alt/s start making enough current to bring the voltage back up. This is very common, especially if you are running a 200+ amp alternator.
-
5 maybe 6 run? i'm sure 2 runs of + and 2 of - will do it. then again maybe 3 of it will help but 5 or 6, .........NO!. i might give you 4. anyways it might just be the optima(s) in the back. they are all deep cycle so they charge slow. maybe switching them to kinetik or powermaster will do it.
Are you running the ground cable directly from the amp to the batteries? I would try adding another direct ground cable. Remember that you have to have the same conductivity for your - side as your + side, and steel chassis arn't as conductive as you might think.
-
but can you charge mixed batteries in parallel on a battery charger?
You can as long as it is not at too high of an amperage. If you are reffering to your yellow top and a Kinetik, they will charge at almost exactly the same rate. The only time you could have a problem, is if you had one flooded battery and one AGM battery; even then it wouldn't be that big of a deal though.
-
That is not true. An Isolator would completely defeat the purpose of adding the Kinetik, you would only have access to either/or battery, and you need to run in both in paralel in order to get the reduced voltage drop. (the whole reason for runnig two batteries)
Just run them both in paralel and you will be fine, we have mixed flooded and AGM batteries on dozens of installs with no problems.
P.S. We carry the Powermaster batteries, and I bet I could beat the shipped price for that Kinetik, and you would have a better performing battery.
.gif){kind=small}
More Batteries? Or Cap?
in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
Posted
You could always mount it under the cab or the bed, there's lots of room under there. That way it isn't taking up space inside the vehicle.