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may03LT

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  1. Swapped decks to the 80prs so it was time to retune the amps. The last time I dialed in my system was a LONG time ago using my velleman hps10 and autosound 2000 disc. After seeing the dd1 go head to head with some super fancy scopes I knew that if I ever changed decks I would get one. Tuning with the DD-1 was as easy as it looked in the videos. I followed the manual and got the max undistorted volume of 60/62 on the prs (standard mode). Went to the mids/highs amp and dialed it in. Went to the woofers amp and dialed in. I probably spent more time looking for the prs remote then I did setting everything up. All in all I was impressed with the DD-1 and I'm glad I got it. So from a first time user, just wanted to say that this thing is boss. Good job!.
  2. I got FCEUX from coolrom.com. I also get the NES roms from there. http://coolrom.com/emulators/nes/39/FCEUX.php
  3. I've been super busy in the shop but have made some headway with the 57. Here's a peek of the drivers POV and there are no more wires hanging below the dash line and no more toggle switches. The car had two massive chrome toggles, one which did nothing, and one which was posed to turn on the A/C but didn't. The HVAC controller in the pic is an older vintage air unit which has an A/C switch built in (it's activated when you pull the "heat" lever all the way up). I used that switch to trip a Tyco relay which allows the A/C to work without hitting a toggle. Neat. Another shot of the dash line. Now, about those mismatched pedals..... This aux fuse/relay center is stashed deep in the fender. I shoved my phone in there to try to get a pic and this is the best I could do. The problem - Numerous accessories have been added to the car which the aftermarket wiring kit/fuse block were not designed to handle. The solution - several items from CEAES were used to power these accessories. I used two of my personal favorite item, the FPATC6 6 position fuse block, to make a constant fuse panel as well as a switched (key on) fuse panel. The e-fans, MSD ignition, dd controller, e-fan controller, and A/C system are tied into this. Not shown are the several tyco relays which control the A/C, switched fuse panel, horn, and one per e-fan. By doing this, all "add-a-fuse" crappy taps are gone, and should any of these components in the car need to be serviced, everything is in a central location. This might not be exciting to some peeps, but one thing that bugs me is when wire is ziptied to stuff that it shouldn't be. The undersized alt charge lead was zip-tied to the proportioning valve. The problem - unsecured, unfused wires ziptied to things that they shouldn't be. The solution - numerous rubber lined clamps like the CLAMP12-10 were used to secure the wiring. I take pride in the fact that no holes were drilled (by me) since I was able to existing bolts/holes to secure the clamps. Another possible unexciting part of the project. I am not a fan of tying anything to the starter stud except the battery feed lead. So, one lead off of the battery positive goes into a "vintage" looking bussman fuse holder to protect the starter lead, while another lead goes into this FHANL3 fuse holder. This is hidden from view behind the battery. Several people, including the owner, have been looking right at it and haven't noticed it. That's the idea. You may also notice more rubber lined clamps to keep things in place. I had to clear out the shop for the weekend, so I got the car driveable so the owner could take it home for the weekend. He ended up enjoying the car for the first time. He called me yesterday tickled to death that the car has been reliable and everything works. I picked it up tonight to take care of some loose ends and hopefully she'll be wrapped up this week.
  4. It's unlikely that I'll ever do the swap, but I'll get that book because some of the tips and tricks that I've learned in the first two are gold. Not gold clad, real Au. The kinds of tips and tricks that are actually useful and apply to real world situations. Good luck with the new book Tony.
  5. Part of todays mission was addressing the efans. I couldn't find any labels or anything on them so I don't know their current requirements. Here's their connectors - something doesn't look right... Just shove a male spade connector in there...lol As for the other one...well it had insulated female spades, but the crimps were not so good. The problem - poor connections at the efans connectors The solution - HCKIT12 efan connectors from CEAES Note: I got the kit which includes male and female connectors/pins because the condition of the fan connectors was not known. I was able to salvage the connectors on the efans. The efan harnesses prewired. Since the current requirement is unknown, I went with 8 AWG from CEAES and grabbed a couple of MEGA 8 AWG rings as well for the grounds. Here's the power leads shoved through a half ass grommet and wedged between the radiator and the body. The loom was a little squishy but nothing was burnt. At this point nothing surprises me anymore. So when I saw the fans were grounded to some flimsy brackets I wasn't even phased. When I can get the car up on the lift, the efans will be grounded properly along with the body/chassis grounds. Kinda unrelated, here's a peek at the DD cluster the owner decided to go with. The chrome bezels are retained. I wasn't feeling it when I first put them in, but when I saw it this morning I thought it looked ok. The illumination will be red. You might be able to see that only one lead is hooked up to the fuel gauge (on the right in this pic)...maybe that's why the fuel gauge didn't work? The next mission that I'm going to post here is building a accessory fuse/relay panel that will accommodate the additional loads that the aftermarket wiring harness wasn't built to handle. For instance, the lead for the "fan" off of the fuse panel is maybe 16g wire. That might be enough to power a relay coil, but not the fans themselves. Once again, I'll be using components from CEAES.
  6. Lately I've been rewiring some old school cars and this is my latest project. This car was purchased several months ago and unfortunately, the owner hasn't been able to enjoy it. Originally I was contacted to install a dakota digital cluster as well as clean up some of the garbage under the dash. This kind of mess is common under the dashes of old school cars like this. Dead leads and butt connectors were everywhere, and the aftermarket fuse panel was overloaded with add a fuse taps. I don't know what's up with the upside down fuse box lol. In between our initial meeting and when I had an opening in the shop to get it in, the car left the owner stranded after a local cruise. This became the priority, as not much can be more embarrassing then having a show car hauled home on a wrecker. These older GMs have a single lead from the battery positive terminal to the starter stud. The alt, ignition switch, and fuse box are also connected at the starter stud. After finding the stud was missing a lockwasher which lead to the nut backing off, and causing an intermittent loss of electrical, I saw that there were only two leads hooked up and they both had shittyshittybangbang crimps on their ring terminals. Time to check it over a little more. The unfused, unsecured lead from the positive terminal had touched the header and melted the insulation. This could have been a disaster. So, about those two leads that came off of the starter stud...here's one - this is wire that powered every component in the vehicle (except one). The fuel pump, msd ignition, lights, radio, you name it, all went through this supercrappy connection. I have bigger speaker wire in my pickup. As for that other lead - it went to a butt connector and stepped down to a 16g lead where it then went into an undersized relay to supply power to the efans. So one lead to power everything, and one lead to power the efans. Sigh. At this point, I had another talk with the owner and he agreed that now was time to make this thing right. Many of the issues are going to be corrected using parts available from CE Auto Electric Supply. I've used Tony's products in several wiring projects, from a 57 Nomad with a built 502 to my mildly modded 2003 Trailblazer, and have always had great results. The project now has four parts, with an estimated completion date of June 20th. 1- Improve the power and ground distribution and make it safe 2- Clean up the garbage under the dash, remove add-a-fuse taps and dead leads 3- Rewire the efans and use an intake mounted temp sensor for auto on/off (the relay coil was wired to ACC and the fans were always on with the key) 4- Dakota digital cluster install I'll update this thread as progress is made.
  7. I had a really good first experience dealing with CE Auto Electric Supply so I figured I'd leave some feedback for anyone who might be on the fence about trying something new. I usually go to parts express/darvex/ebay/amazon for parts for my projects. This project calls for several 30/40 relays and I had a tough time finding 30/40 tycos through the usual sources. I found some knock offs (see:bosch type relay) but I wanted the good stuff. I checked out CE and they had them. I saw that they also carried the fuse blocks that have been featured in Tony's books. Their pricing was competitive with the bussman fuse blocks that I've used in the past. I did some more searching and found something that I have looked for once or twice but never found - the internal/external tooth star washers that are part of the master grounding kit. Score! I ordered these things on Friday afternoon and they showed up this morning. I was very impressed with the fast shipping and the shipment was packed well. I'm usually hesitant to try new companies when the ones that I'm used to using don't really have anything wrong with them. In this case, trying something new paid off. Keep up the good work Tony!
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