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  1. Yup, as long as i get away from the computer regulation it'll help. So far the idle has posed a problem to get around but haven't given up yet. Thanks for the tip. Will definitely look into it. Appreciated
  2. image91

    Electrical for 6000 rms

    A second d3100 will definitely help. i'd think it will stop the dimming. The more the merrier in these cases but two d3100s should be a decent enough minimum for that size of a system to my knowledge. Do you have a big 3 installed? What's your wire run like? Will you be charging your batteries externally at all? & how do you play the system? Might help someone more experienced to better answer
  3. image91

    Ported box

    That would be around 6 cubes net volume. 5.4 ft^3 net for the least if you are going separate chambers. With subwoofer displacement, port & bracing if any, it will be significantly larger. Especially if you use the optimal port area required.
  4. Sooo, alternator/regulator upgrade plan got scrapped. Reverted to previous plan. Mechman 240A with build in regulator. Got some more encouragement to do the second 0g run so two it is. Will the 75AH & 105AH Northstars be sufficient?
  5. Edited. i would recommend an SA-12 ported bro. Could've sworn you said you had like 7 ft^3 O_o Hence my previous suggestion. lol
  6. Any budget in particular? Is size a factor?
  7. image91

    One Sundown 15 vs. Four Sundown 10s

    Would feel under-utilized if i don't run at least rated or a little above rated power. There's no doubt in my mind that they will sound good, don't get me wrong. Knowing that they are not being used optimally, might be better to stick to two fully power SAs maybe. At least most people i know will recommend that. If i do decide to upgrade to a 3k then i'd consider them. Have heard great things about the U-Series ;)
  8. image91

    One Sundown 15 vs. Four Sundown 10s

    Thanks for the input bro. Makes sense. Problem is, i don't have the power to push two U-Series or multiple X-Series unfortunately. Wondering how two SA-12s will sound in a T-Line. My X-15 is currently in a T-Line & i find it hard to go back to a regular ported enclosure. A friend has an SA-10 in a T-Line & it plays 20-50 very well. The 25-35 is really solid. It has a lot to do with the enclosure. What frequency were your SA-12s tuned to bro?
  9. Thanks bro, appreciated Hope you get your regulator adjusted & you extra 0.2v. The more the merrier. Really hope the rebuild & upgrades work out well. Heard really good things about the Northstar batteries so decided to give them a go.
  10. & a lot of the time people's opinions aren't based on anything but word of mouth unfortunately. Lol 13.8 full tilt is like a dream for me. Hell, 13.8 on idle is a dream for me. Haha. That 13.2 is depressing. Will see how the regulator/alt works out on Monday if all goes well. i actually made an error, corrected it now. The 4th amp is a 750.2, not a second mono. Typo. My bad. The 2nd run actually sounds like a good plan. Will strongly consider it. Is 250A from my stock casing & a rectifier upgrade practical/possible though? Sounds like a lot to me.
  11. image91

    One Sundown 15 vs. Four Sundown 10s

    Thanks for the timely response bro! i was considering 12s but most of the 12s i had in mine have a recommended net volume of 1.75 ft^3 net. Even using three, although moving a bit more air theoretically than four 10s, would require a larger enclosure. Two 12s would move more air than the single 15 but not by near as mch as four 10s. i actually had three Elemental Designs 13ov.2 12s sealed for years. Before i could build a ported enclosure & power them properly, the spiders wore out on me. Was considering fitting new spiders but not sure yet. They would actually line up well with the amp & they are recommended 1.3 ft^3 net per sub which is not bad at all. Still an option in the back of my mind. Great subs imo.
  12. Thanks for the quick response bro! Was actually wondering if one run would be suffieicent. Was told by multiple known installers & experienced techs that it would be. The completed system will consist of Orion XTR amps for now. 2500.1dz, 1700.4, 750.4 & 750.2. These from my research are pretty power hungry. Was considering Sundown amps but not quite convinced yet as to if the extra cost is worth it. If anyone can give their take on that topic also, would be very helpful. i currently have the 2500.1dz & 1700.4 installed in the vehicle. If it is necessary i will do another run of 0g. The alternator upgrade is, according to the technician, supposedly going to output close to 250A. Does that make sense? It's a daily driven personal system, not for competition by any means. Just want to know that my equipment is powered properly & not starving for current. Want to keep everything cool & efficient & able to run for extended periods if necessary. i never play with the vehicle switched off. Was also told that the seatbelt bolt is a reliable ground by multiple sources over the years O_o Currently have my amps grounded there.
  13. Good day all, looking for some opinions on how a single Sundown X-Series v2 15" would compare to four Sundown E-Series v3 10"? Same amp will be used. Orion XTR 2500.1dz. My thoughts are, 1. The recommended net volume requirement is 4.25 ft^3 on the 15" compared to 1.0 ft^3 x 4 on the 10s. Similar enclosure size. 2. The four 10s would have a cone area advantage. Does that mean high possibility of more output? 3. The four 10s will handle the power more effectively? My guess is yes, but thoughts? 4. Wondering which choice would have more low end output. Looking to have solid output between 26Hz & 34Hz comfortably. Any input would be greatly appreciated, thanks
  14. Good day all. For some time now i've been having issues with the current for my system. My vehicle (Toyota 141 08' Fielder Wagon) has a stock 80A alternator. Upgraded my battery to a Northstar 76AH AGM a couple months now. My main issues are that the computer apparently regulates the voltage down from 14.1v at startup to 13.2v & that my vehicle idles at around 625 rpm. i was told this is normal for this vehicle? i'm currently in the process of modifying/upgrading my alternator. Someone was recommended to me to have this done & as far as i am aware, he is installing a new rectifier with additional/larger diodes etc. Is this enough to get a significant increase in current/output? The same person is also installing an external regulator in order to bypass the computer regulation which will hopefully give me 14.1v+. That hopefully "solves" one issue. The other issue would be that even with higher regulation & a "higher output" alternator, my rpm is still very low at idle. Is anyone familiar enough with this vehicle to suggest a way to increase my idle rpm? Also currently in the process of re-doing a full 0g OFC run front to back, big 3 & adding a 105AH Northstar to the back. Full system will probably pull 400A-500A. My previous wiring was using regular 0g of a lesser quality. Will be using the old front to back run as a ground run. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks