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Everything posted by max13b2

  1. That didn't just arbitrarily change the RMS rating from 750 to 1000... The Version 1 SA series had the 750RMS rating and had 3 different revisions of it... the Version 2 had the 1000w rating along with a good amount of upgrades that justify the increased rating. Do not confuse the revision number with the version number. Your blank back looks just like my 2 SA-12 Rev.3 subs. These are just like all the series ones that I've seen. I would assume the etched ones are the version 2 ones, but I have not yet seen one in person. The new "Classic" is just a ren
  2. This amp is part of their HV (High Voltage) line. It requires 300v DC to operate, that's why it requires multiple 12v batteries. You must run them in series to get to that voltage. Also requires a special charger, as no alternator will put out 300VDC, but it sips amperage as a result, of course.
  3. Call a couple of the alt companies and ask them if they can make a higher amperage alternator for your car. IMO a 270 would be minimum, but I'd go with a 320 amp if available. Again, give them all a call and just see what they say, then go with the company that provides you the best service for the best price. Also look at the Northstar SMSAGM220 or SMSAGM480. I was going to go with one of these due to the tall and narrow design as space is very limited in my vehicle as well. Maybe you can squeeze one of these in beside the box or being the rear seats as they are quite narrow and provide gr
  4. Anytime! Don't forget that alt! You're only going to see minimal increase without it, it really is the heart of the entire electrical system. Try to take a reading with the setup you have now at the amp terminals with the multimeter, at full tilt, then do all the wiring upgrades and take another reading, you will probably only see a minimal increase. Then upgrade the battery under the hood to an AGM, something nice and beefy (biggest one you can fit, get inventive) and grab the high output alternator to see some real gains. You will be amazed!
  5. At your power level, I would def go with the 0 gauge for everything. I ran 4 gauge for my big 3 and ended up upgrading to 0 and gained a decent amount of voltage at the amp. Yes, when I say 1 run, I'm referring to the battery positive under the hood, to the amps in the back. If you can fit it, I would prob suggest that you go ahead and do 2 runs now since everything is already going to be apart. But 0 gauge is big and can be a pain to snake around. Take your time and you will be happy once it's done. Also, cap bank = capacitor, but not like a old 1 farad or 3 farad one
  6. Grab a multimeter and take a reading at the amp terminals while you are at full tilt... if you are dropping to 12.0v or under, you are starving your amps and do not have enough elec. support to feed them, that's where you should start Yes, there are better amps out there, but just like everything else, better is not always the answer. You have a problem, fix the problem first, then worry about upgrading your gear, once you get what you already have operating correctly.
  7. Unfortunately a local parts store is not going to carry what you are looking for. There are specialty shops that make their won high output alternators specifically for aftermarket accessories and stereo upgrades. Look into Mechman, CES, Brand X and Singer just to name a few. I personally run a little less power than you and got a CES 320 amp alternator for a great price, but reach out to them all and compare. Spend the time to talk to them on the phone, let them know what you are running and what your goals are. Be prepared though, elec. system upgrades are not going to be cheap,
  8. Your amps are prob just fine and upgrading them will not solve your issue. You were correct in assuming that the 0 gauge was not overkill, matter of fact, I would think that a single run of 0 gauge is the minimum needed. 3000 watts rms is going to absolutely need an upgraded alternator and at least 1 run of 0 gauge wiring. Couple that with the big 3 and you will just be on the edge of "maybe". I'd see where your voltage drops too after those upgrades, but you may need a bit more, like an extra run of wire and a good sized battery / cap bank in the rear. Peop
  9. I've used paint to protect my exterior grounds for years, never had an issue. I have virtually 0 resistance from my amp negative input, using only that grounding point, to my battery negative post. In the end, I'm sure, as long as you're protected against the elements and rust in some fashion, you will be fine.
  10. No, the RCA knob has no other external power source with which to boost anything. It simply interrupts the signal and attenuates it. Just connect the knob, turn it to max, and then set your gains accordingly. From there you can use the knob to adjust your sub output on the fly
  11. Paint, under coating / bedliner, etc... I just used some Rust-Oleum black spray paint over the whole connection, works just fine
  12. 3000.d... either SCV or SAE over the other 2 not a full bridge fan myself, MUCH prefer the robustness of the Korean half bridge design
  13. I'm betting on clipping. What was your voltage at the amp when this was occurring?
  14. No, the paint will not affect the connection. I crimped down my bare copper lug to the wire very well, then used heat shrink and made sure the proper bolt was secured and tightened down well, using a lock washer. Once I was done I painted the entire connection with good quality black spray paint to prevent any rust on the bare metal showing. It blends in well and does not hurt a thing. The ground connection is between the chassis metal that you ground down, and the bottom of the copper lug that makes contact with the chassis, not the exposed top of the lug.
  15. Yes, your fine to ground to the chassis. Just be sure to use a wire brush to be sure your down to bare, shiny metal, use a good copper lug and tighten it down well with the correct size bolt. Repeat this on both ends and you will be fine. I then spray painted the area to prevent rust I have 2 runs of 1/0 grounded to the rear chassis to a good body ground and then to the rear battery negative post. From there I have 2 runs from the battery negative to the amplifier's dual input, negative side
  16. Yes, if you are running a 3.5k on a 120a alt, you are going to need something bigger (270a or greater). If you can afford it, I would replace the alt and the battery at once, otherwise I would have the batt properly load tested (parts stores do this for free). -If the batt tests good, I would do the alt first, then start saving for a decent AGM to replace it. -If the batt tests bad, then replace it immediately and get a new alt in there as soon as you can, keeping your hands away from the volume knob in the meantime.
  17. If you are holding 12.8v at idle @ full tilt, I do not think a second battery is going to help as you are already slightly over the resting voltage of your batteries. Are you sure that your alt is in fact a 170a or is it a 270a? If it is actually just a 170a, you're gonna need to have it upgraded to see a difference in idle voltage.
  18. Autozone said they could not get the battery to accept a charge and 9v was as much as they could get it to hold. If you have a bad cell (or several) then you may not have a parasitic drain, just a battery that cannot hold, and thus retain, enough of a charge to start the car in the morning. = Battery is bad, replace the batt (take this opportunist to upgrade it to a decent AGM, parts store AGM is fine) and then report your new voltage measurements.
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