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max13b2

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About max13b2

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  1. Not to get off topic, but what have you found in this range besides wolfram?
  2. That's great info, thanks! Using your configuration, do the subs have to be mounted close together on that particular end of the top panel, or can I space them out and center them on the top of the box? Will that affect any kind of internal box airflow? What kind of internal bracing do you recommend for a box with dimensions similar to the ones in the above example? With the port on the bottom like that, I would think it will leave some large sides of the box prone to flexing.
  3. Really? Haven't thought of that. Can I ask why port on side instead of port forward, genuinely curious. Could I still go subs forward too keep them out of sight behind the seat (subs forward near the bottom of box / port on side but top, not on bottom like shown) or would they need to go up? Can you give me all the measurements in this box design?
  4. Change of plans, going from aero port now to a slot port due to a variety of factors... Subs: 2 x Sundown SA-12s dual 4-ohm Amp: 2 old school Kicker ZR360s bridged @ 2ohm, 1 per subwoofer (~700 watts RMS per sub) Vehicle: 2008 extended cab Dakota. I know I want a total volume of 4 cubic feet after displacement and tuned to 32Hz using a slot port in the middle using 3/4" MDF I'm looking at 24" tall x 14" deep, the width is the variable I can change to get the proper box volume (prob around 38" wide or so). I am wanting a double baffle to sink the subs into as well. I was going to run subs facing front, port on front and in the middle of the subs, similar to the attached example. This is just an example and I am open to your ideas! Keeping in mind that the box is going to have to be tall, wide and shallow overall. The subs will be on the front face behind the seats, at the bottom of the box so that they do not hit the back of the seats. This means that the port is prob going to be roughly 2.5" wide but 22.5" tall. Is that going to be a problem at all being that skinny and long? I would like to keep it stealthy and not visible from the outside unless you think that subs up / port forward will give me better results or a more efficient box. If so, I will change it. If someone could please give me some ideas, and mock it up in sketch-up or something, maybe even a cut sheet. And please run the design through WinISD or some sort of modeling software to ensure port velocity is low at 32Hz and ~1400 watts at 4 cu. ft. on the pair of SA-12s Keep in mind, my amplifier power is limited, so I'm trying to make it as efficient as I can. Thank you all very much, I've learned a ton on this forum!
  5. Yeah, I think you are absolutely correct, thank you very much! I decided to change my design up and go to a slot port. Please see my new post here, and leave me some suggestions! Thank you!!
  6. Subs: 2 x Sundown SA-12s Amp: 2 old school Kicker ZR360s bridged @ 2ohm, 1 per subwoofer Vehicle: 2008 extended cab Dakota. I know I want a total volume of 4cuft after displacement and tuned to 32Hz using an aeroport. I'm looking at 24" tall x 14" deep, the width is the variable I can change to get the proper box volume Since I want to use an aeroport, and playing around with the Torres Calculator, I can go with A ) 8" aeroport @ 27" long B ) 6" aeroport @ 14" long I would love to go with the option B. Cheaper and would fit my box design so much better! Of course I'm worried about port velocity with the 6" port... What would be the velocity of each A and B designs? Maybe 2 of the 6" ports? How long then? What would then be the velocity I'm only going to be putting roughly 650 - 700 watts RMS per subwoofer, I'm looking for efficiency above all else!
  7. Mods: Please delete.
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